BradTank

I noticed on the GX, the rubber flaps that are in between the wheel well and engine compartment are missing on both sides. On mine, they look like they've just been torn over time.

I searched here, and apparently someone was saying dealers removed these over heating concerns?

My issue is, on the passenger side, there's nothing blocking the wheel well from the alternator, and it can't be good to get water and all the other sort of debris sprayed right on it like that.

Get anyone confirm if there was indeed a TSB to remove these flaps, and the original part number if I wanted to replace?

Thanks

Booyah

Heck I have never heard of this at all! that is a dealers line of B.S if I have ever heard of lol....Dont know the part nunber, but yes get them and install!

BradTank

I agree it sounds fishy, but this was the thread I was referring to, wanted to see if there was any merit to it:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gx-...rotection.html

It just doesn't seem like it would be a big factor in cooling, and I don't like all of that debris getting knocked onto the accessories/ serpentine belt.

RCsGX

I would think that the huge plastic Lexus engine cover and the other 2 plastic engine bay covers would cause over heating issues before hose little flimsy dust / dirt shields would.




The dust / dirt shield part numbers can be found below:
http://lexus.sewellparts.com/oem-cat...X470-2005.html

colink1

Are you talking about these - found under front fenders and dash apron:

FRONT FENDER APRON SEAL UPPER
FRONT FENDER SEAL
FRONT FENDER APRON SEAL (RH - RIGHT / PASSENGER SIDE) , MARK : FL

I just ordered these from Sewell for my 2008 GX470

470reasons

I just ordered a set from Toyotapartsoverstock. Haven't received a shipping confirmation yet. I did get an email from them stating they could not confirm the parts would fit my GX and that they would not refund my money if the parts did not fit. Told them to ship the parts. The prices were much lower than from Lexus dealers. I will report in on if they are the correct parts.

This is what was ordered:

(2) SEAL, FRONT FENDER; SHIELD, FRONT FENDER SPLASH, REAR LH; SHIELD, FRONT FENDER SPLASH, REAR RH 5388635020 $17.68

(1) SEAL, FRONT FENDER APRON, FRONT RH; SEAL, FRONT FENDER APRON, RH; SEAL, FRONT FENDER APRON, UPPER 5373535150 $16.41

(8) CLIP(FOR FRONT FENDER APRON SEAL) 9046710186 $1.39

I did not order the left-front piece since it was in good shape. Ordered the rear l +r (same part number, plus the right-front, and some mounting clips. Note: There are two different part numbers for the left-front piece (KDSS and regular-FL).

EDIT:

The shields arrived and have been installed. The fit is very floppy if the factory mounting holes are used. I used the factory holes for the top rows of fasteners and punched new holes with a Phillips head screwdriver for the others. Not sure why all that 'flop' is required. Can't believe there's that much flex in the frame.

Ordered new push pins from Amazon. Better quality and cheaper than Lexus.

Part number 5388635020 is for the right and left REAR shields. Just flip one shield over to make a pair.
Here are pics of both rear shields installed.




Part number 5373535150 is for the right Front shield .



Part number 5373635150 is for the left FRONT shield (non KDS)

BradTank

I ended up just making my own with some material I had for "free", I didn't like throwing $100 at a few random sheets of plastic that will likely just tear again.

I'm amazed Lexus made these out of such fragile material for a vehicle that's supposed to be made for rugged terrain. My car has never really seen any off-road duty, yet they were all torn off. It sounds like it's a pretty common issue.

470reasons

Good for you! What material did you use? I thought about using thin aluminum sheet. When the new OEM panels arrive, I'm going to trace them on construction paper for future reference.

BradTank

I had some random material from an old car restoration project that was a sort of polyester base and black. Similar to a trunk mat. It blended in perfectly.

You really could use anything, even something like roof tar paper would probably work. I just popped the old plastic out, cut out a rough estimate and clipped it in with the clips that were still left. Only took a few minutes. If you had some thin aluminum laying around, you could probably make one that lasted forever. Maybe spray it with a can of undercoating.

Seems to have held up fine. I figured worst case if it didn't hold up, I could always just buy the real thing, but no issues. All it's doing is blocking debris from getting into the engine compartment that could come off the tires. It doesn't seem to be getting much airflow banging it around, so it it doesn't seem to need to be anything hi tech.

varithms

Thanks for posting this. I noticed a belt slip and squeel after hitting a puddle this weekend. Sure enough, the right front and rear are gone. The left front was fine (like yours) and the left rear was gone..Thanks again for posting part numbers. My alternator looks like the shower curtain was pulled back. It's exposed!!

mrblister

Mine were missing on my 2004 gx 470 when I bought it. Had the dealer replace them on there dime

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

Mine were there before I ripped a few of them out when working on the shocks =)
you start by trying to work around them, but usually they just fall apart.
I wouldn't waste money on that I would maybe bolt in some spare ABS plastic pieces and drill a few holes. If the dealer replaces them for free then sure why not.

memokc

I ordered mine and have them in but a bunch of the plastic push in pins are in bad shape after removing them, does anyone know the part number for the black plastic pins that hold in the rubber aprons? Thanks for your help!

NTH

Reviving this thread from the dead. Ordering a complete set as mine are torn. I'm sure many of you have torn ones as well.

IanB2

You might want to price out Rad Rubber vs. OEM if you're ordering a bunch, the cost might steer you to one over the other.