RCsGX

I personally don't like the look but if I had the accessories he does and travel / offroad like he does there's really no other place to put them in order for them to be accessible at all times.

Everything is within reach:



His GX can be found here for those that want to see another side of our GX.
http://www.expeditionportal.com/foru...pedition-build

YoshiMan

I totally agree on the tacky look, but If it were me, i would put a single switch of some sorts within that cover so it would be aesthetically pleasing

Dead controls drive me nuts (call it OCD if you will) and the hardest part would just have to think of what type of accessory to add that needs a switch!

RCsGX

I know what you mean. Seeing a blank where a switch should be drives me nuts too. If I didn't have that factory option in the blank I'm the type to scour forums / eBay and find the correct switch(es) just to fill the spot.

YoshiMan

Yeah, there is nothing worse than buying a new car and being proud of it, and then some little kid gets in and starts pushing on one of the "blank" buttons, asking "whats this button do?"...and your response is: ".....that's the option i couldn't afford...."

But to get back on topic, it makes me wonder, i just hit 160k on mine, and it sure doesn't seem like the suspension lasts that long on any of the others. Mi ne is still all stock, but Is it likely that mine is not on the original suspension?

new2005GX

Put in the Arnotts yesterday. Actually, put the rears in Friday night and the fronts yesterday. Was going to just do the rears and wait until next weekend to do the fronts but after doing the rears, the truck felt out of balance and I was dying to see how the truck rode with all new shocks.

None of my shocks were leaking but I couldn't help but wonder what new ones felt like so I pulled the trigger on the Arnott Bilsteins (~600 for all four from Shockwarehouse.com).

Regarding the install, I have to say it was a huge PITA. I swear I think the timing belt was easier. First off, if you live in an area where they use salt, don't wast your time trying to save the rear shocks like I did. Go right for the sawzall and cut the bolts off. Don't waste your time and energy with pipe and chain wrenches like I did. Just cut the bolts off and thank me later.

The fronts were a whole different animal. Like a dumbass, I was trying to use a bottle jack (which works perfectly btw) but was fussing with a 2x4 to brace it against the top of the wheelwell and compress the upper control arm. This kept slipping no matter how tight i got it nd the jack kept falling out. Didn't realize until the second side that you need to flip the jack upside down and use it that way without the piece of wood. DOH!!! Once I did that, it was a piece of cake, sort of. You need to play with the height of the jack as you are removing the shock as you are taking it out as the springs will keep getting stuck otherwise. Don't be scared of the spring compressors, they are easy to use and safe if you take your time.

I needed to pull off the swaybar link and swaybar, plus tie rod end to do the job (thanks Autozone!) When I did the left side, both swaybar bolts snapped in the frame. This was at 8PM in my driveway so I stopped, drank a few beers while I pondered what to do and then grabbed an drill and easy out which worked like a charm on the first one by threading the bolt into the frame and just leaving it there. The next bolt I drilled off center so of course that method didn't work. Luckily, my FIL is in town so he went to work with a small chisel and slowly whacked the bolt so it turned enough until I could get the vicegrips on there and turn it out. Took about 5 minutes for the first bolt and an hour for the second, oh well. Need to hit Home Depot in the AM to get new bolts so I can take it for a test ride.

As far as the shocks go, I'm not sure I would waste the money again on the Arnotts but I will let you know how the ride is tomorrow night. One reason I say this is I am not so sure they are anything special judging by the fact that some of the hardware they supplied didn't fit. Namely the lower bushing for the rears which is oval shaped and sits inside a welded on cup from the factory. I had to use a round file to bore out the old bushing to fit the new shock. Onto the fronts, you need to file a flat edge on the top threaded portion so the OEM keyed washer will fit just like the original shock. I wasn't crazy about doing this but in the end it worked perfectly.

My point is, If Arnott didn't supply the fight stuff for a seamless swap, makes you wonder if they even tried them out or got them revalved. They are stamped with Arnott on the shock body in conjunction with the stickers and don't have the Bilstein 4600 part # on them - it is a different # which I should of wrote down but regardless, makes you wonder if they are different given the work needed to make them fit,

Will report back with the ride tomorrow. If anyone wants the fronts, I'll let them go for $75 + shipping. As I said, they don't leak and seem to be working fine (they have ~100K). I did cut the boot on one of them but I think I can put it back on with electrical tape and it will be fine. At least I could take a good look at the shaft and see that it wasn't leaking. You can have the rears for free (+ shipping) if you think you can rebuild them to fix the bolt that was cut off. I am keeping the controllers for the front shocks in case I ever want to revert back to stock.

RCsGX

I called and spoke with Arnott when I first got my GX and asked what's special about these compared to standard Bilsteins. They just said these are made for the GX and that was all. Back then I didn't really pursue a more in depth answer because I was set on going stock again...until I read all of the failing stock suspension threads.

I emailed them again when I heard you were buying them. I only asked them one question and that was:They completely ignored my question. Instead sent me a generic response which they probably send to everyone asking about these shocks because I never asked them about our electronically controlled dampening shock or if I will get an error light. I asked them what the difference was between their shock and a 4600. ^ yes I do need additional info that was asked in my first email, so let's try this again:I've sent that same email to them 3 times now and have not received a response back. I doubt there is an answer because they're probably the same shock only instead of yellow they're black and if they told us that we wouldn't pay their HUGE mark up. Unless on these forums, the average GX owner would not know that we share the same aftermarket shocks as the 4Runner / FJ & Tacoma and that is what they're counting on.

Here's a comparison between their Bilstein shocks and standard 4Runner 4600 Bilstein shocks....


Arnott's "custom GX" Bilsteins

• Front: $199.88 a piece
• Rear: $199.88 a piece

Bilstein 4Runner / FJ / Tacoma 4600s

• Front: $90.36 a piece
• Rear: $67.99 a piece

gxman1

I am scared, this whole suspension is making me worried. I am good for now. I know its coming.

I dont even know if I need shocks..LOL

burny

I am picking my truck up Wednesday and this already bothers me. I will definitely replace the air bag setup when it fails with the non electronic setup. I have replaced shocks and struts before, but how involved is it getting rid of this electronic crap with the air bags, compressor etc?

new2005GX

So I got everything buttoned up and took it for a spin. Truck definitely feels more controlled and better damped. OEM suspension felt loosey goosey and harsh at the same time. Arnotts are not like riding on a cloud but they feel pretty good and absorb most hits very well. Big bumps and holes are still felt but not unbearable.

To anyone thinking about buying these, I would just save your manobe and get the standard Billies. As RC points out, it us very unlikely that there is any difference other than price. Only salvation for me is I got 200 bucks back from Shock warehouse since Arnott lowered there price by 50 bucks a shock. Still a ripoff. Oh well live and learn. At least I saved money on labor and if I want to change them I can in about a tenth of the time it took me the first time.

Wonder if contacting Bilstein with the same question would do any good? Would be funny if they said that they we're not valvedvany differently. Can almost guarantee they are not.

RCsGX

For anyone wanting to contact Bilstein, here's their contact info for the U.S.
http://www.bilsteinus.com/about-bilstein/contact/

I was hoping to find an email for them so I can get their response in writing so there's no he said / she said but so far no luck. Almost every suspension company has a rep that's a member on vehicle forums except Bilstein.

stiles_s

I wouldn't write it off yet. It would be nice to get a simple answer from Arnott about whether they've worked with Bilstein to revalve.

Revalving Bilsteins is pretty simple and cheap, and can have significant results. I worry about using an off the shelf bilstein that works for everything from toyota tacomas to 4runners. We're the heaviest and tallest vehicle on the 120 platform, so some extra damping would be useful.

Unfortunate that they won't confirm. The Arnott stamp is a strong clue. Does the stamp match the look of the part number stamps on the shock?

new2005GX

The stamp does make it seem promising but then again, Bilstein made them black for Arnott too.

Personal, I think Arnott is simply capitalizing on the fact that the stock shocks are so expensive that they make these look like a cheap alternative.

Overall I'm pretty happy but can't help buy wonder if the cheaper ones are the same or worse, better than the Arnotts.

The front still dives a bit under braking - wonder if I needed new springs too? Also - do shocks need time to break in?

new2005GX

So after reading this again, I'm worried that my rear ride height adjustment won't work. If the arnotts are really just bilstein 4600s and this are too short, them these will be too. I haven't tried to raise the truck yet. What will happen if I try and the shocks are too short? I'm going to be ripped if they are and return them all and buy 5100s.

RCsGX

Yes you need stiffer shocks to help with that.


No.


The 5100s have an accordion style rubber shaft cover that covers it during normal ride height and then is able to stretch out once you lift the rear. The Arnotts / 4600s have a solid plastic shaft cover. The OEM shocks also have plastic shaft covers but look at how long they are compared to the Arnotts / 4600s. Based on looks alone I'd say that they don't have extended shafts.


If they don't have extended shafts and you offroad and lift the rear and overextend them you can potentially damage them...onroad you'll be fine.

If I were you I'd call Arnott and ask them. There's no since in paying that kind of money if the shafts are not longer to accommodate the rear lifting.

RCsGX

I just received an email back from them. Here's what they said:

"I just confirmed with our R & D manager. He stated that the shocks are the 4600 series. The information available for the 5100 series shows that the shocks are designed for specific manufactured lift kits utilizing the stock O.E.M. mounting configuration.

Generally speaking Bilstein shocks typically have a firmer ride, and will provide better handling compared to other shocks on the market, the feedback has been great from our customers.

Since the shocks we provide will mount up with your existing air suspension set up, the parts will work fine in .


Thanks,"


So for anyone buying these you are paying a significant up-charge for black paint...all I can say is WOW! And since we know they are 100% 4600s I wouldn't use them in the rear, I'd return them and get a set of 5100s.