YoshiMan

Hello everyone.

On the lower left side of my speedometer, there's a spot that looks just a hair darker than the rest of the gauge cluster. I can't really tell if this is just how it is, or if its something that's gone out, but i'de like to take a closer look at it. The needles are all still 100% though, which is good.

Now can anyone tell me, are the back lights in the gauge clusters on these just standard replaceable bulbs, or are they made of those cathode tube/electroluminescent parts like the older LS400 gauges are? I haven't ordered my Factory Service manuals yet, so i'm still totally in the dark on the..."schematics" of this truck.

Thanks in advance!

RCsGX

They're LEDs. You'll have to open the cluster and solder a new LED back onto the board.

Do a search on here. I don't know the post off hand but several people have complained it looks darker around the 10mph spot.

YoshiMan

Yup, that's how mine is. If that's just how they are, then perhaps ill just leave it alone!

RCsGX

That's not how it's suppose to be. You have a burnt out LED. I wouldn't worry about it but if it bugs you and if you're handy with a soldering iron it wouldn't be hard at all to fix. You just need to find out what type of LED it takes.

Crispy3M

There is a video floating around here somewhere where the guy changed all the LED's to blue... I think. I remember him commenting that it took forever

RCsGX

If you switch your whole cluster over I'm sure it will take a long time since their SMD (surface mount) LEDs but one or two is a piece of cake.

Crispy3M

Absolutely... I didn't mean to suggest that replacing one would be a chore.

Just telling stories

YoshiMan

Groovy. I have many a times resoldered new bulbs into circuit boards. When you own an escalade for a year, you get VERY good at it! Ill have to look up and see where to source dimmable LEDs

RCsGX

LEDs are dimmed with the use of a PWM, resistors etc. so any LED will work.

I use to get a lot of parts from Mouser. Once you find exactly what size / type LED(s) you need check them out. I'm pretty sure you'll need a SMD. If so take your time since they're really really tiny! Mouser sells name brand LED's so you don't have to worry about them frying out months down the road like some of the cheap China LEDs do.

Good luck!


LEDs
http://www.mouser.com/Optoelectronic...ers/_/N-8usfd/

SMD LEDs
http://www.mouser.com/Optoelectronic...-SMD/_/N-b1bb1

ROSCOGX470

+1 near the 10mph area, that's just strange

mrblister

Does any one have a DIY video or instructions on removing the speedo cluster so as to replace the LED
Mine is also a bit darker in the 10 MPH area then the rest.

RCsGX

I haven't looked but if it's anything like my old Tundra DC there should be 2 phillips head screws up top of the cluster. You remove those and pull the cluster out and unplug the harnesses in back to remove it. Once you do that there should be white pressure clips all around the back of the cluster cluster and clear pressure clips around the front plastic. Once you get those apart it should open right up.


EDIT:

Yep there are.

mrblister

Thank you. Is it pretty stright forward to replace the led in question . I have solder skills would also need to know where to get the LED . How many harness connectors on back of cluster to remove

RCsGX

You need to open it up and look at what type of LEDs are being used, then go to mouser and compare. More than likely they're going to be tiny SMD LEDs. They're not hard to replace just a pain since they're so small to work with.

LEDs
http://www.mouser.com/Optoelectronic...ers/_/N-8usfd/

SMD LEDs
http://www.mouser.com/Optoelectronic...-SMD/_/N-b1bb1



Probably 2 or 3. They're just large plugs like the back of the radio. Nothing major.



EDIT:
Here's some SMDs from an '07 Camry gauge cluster to give you an idea on how small the LEDs are.

mrblister

Thanks I may pull the cluster and see which led is out. Is it possible to pull cluster out a bit and leave it connected to the harness to see if I can find the burned out led. I guess I just carefully unsolder with a suction bulb and then make sure i get the polairty right when going back in. If I cant gain access with the harness attached could i apply a 12 volts test battery to the errant led while its soldered in place to prove its out or are the led reduced to 5 volt on the boards