GX470 Power Stop Brake Rotors
03-07-13, 06:05 AM
#1
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
GX470 Power Stop Brake Rotors
I was wondering if anyone has any experience with Power Stop Slotted Rotors on there GX 470. I would be interested in hearing the good and the bad.
Thank you
Tim
Thank you
Tim
03-07-13, 10:04 AM
#3
I have the Power Stop rotors on my GX and so far, i love them. I've put close to 8-10k miles.
No issues, no noise, no rust.
I've had them before on Nissan Maxima and i was happy for 30k+ miles, then i sold the car.
If you decide to go with blank rotors, you'll never go wrong with Brembo blanks.
Make sure you also get GOOD quality pads. Brake pads can ruin rotors, not the other way around.
I recommend HAWK (HPS or LTS) since i've had excellent experience with them for years.
Check tirerack.com and google for best prices.
No issues, no noise, no rust.
I've had them before on Nissan Maxima and i was happy for 30k+ miles, then i sold the car.
If you decide to go with blank rotors, you'll never go wrong with Brembo blanks.
Make sure you also get GOOD quality pads. Brake pads can ruin rotors, not the other way around.
I recommend HAWK (HPS or LTS) since i've had excellent experience with them for years.
Check tirerack.com and google for best prices.
03-11-13, 05:29 AM
#4
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
So I just got my Power Stop K2422 Front/Rear Ceramic Brake Pad and Cross Drilled/Slotted Combo Rotor One-Click Brake Kit install at a local 4WheelParts here in Denver, So far I have no complaints and for the same cost as BreaksPlus would have charged me to do all 4 rotors and pad I came out ahead with performance rotors and pads.
Are they needed (Honestly No) but I didn’t want to replace or turn the rotors for another 5 years or so. And for pretty much the same price of using OEM I think the slotted and drilled were IMO a better purchase.
I will update if I experience any issues but if I don’t post mean that the rotors and pads are working great and I’m not getting any strange sounds from them either. (Someone posted that they chattered because of the drills) but after 100 mile I hear nothing and they are smooth as a baby’s butt…
March 13 2013
Denver , CO
Are they needed (Honestly No) but I didn’t want to replace or turn the rotors for another 5 years or so. And for pretty much the same price of using OEM I think the slotted and drilled were IMO a better purchase.
I will update if I experience any issues but if I don’t post mean that the rotors and pads are working great and I’m not getting any strange sounds from them either. (Someone posted that they chattered because of the drills) but after 100 mile I hear nothing and they are smooth as a baby’s butt…
March 13 2013
Denver , CO
Last edited by steevestim; 03-13-13 at 12:38 PM.
12-06-14, 06:37 AM
#5
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Hey guys,
So it’s been well over a year sense I had the power stop slotted & drilled rotors install and have to say I have had zero issues. If you’re having issues with the stock rotors and want to get it done right IMO only upgrade to the Power Stop rotors. I’m going on 12k sense I have had them installed and love them! If you’re in the market for new rotors it worth looking into.
So it’s been well over a year sense I had the power stop slotted & drilled rotors install and have to say I have had zero issues. If you’re having issues with the stock rotors and want to get it done right IMO only upgrade to the Power Stop rotors. I’m going on 12k sense I have had them installed and love them! If you’re in the market for new rotors it worth looking into.
01-05-15, 06:37 AM
#6
03-27-15, 06:31 AM
#7
I have the Power Stop rotors on my GX and so far, i love them. I've put close to 8-10k miles.
No issues, no noise, no rust.
I've had them before on Nissan Maxima and i was happy for 30k+ miles, then i sold the car.
If you decide to go with blank rotors, you'll never go wrong with Brembo blanks.
Make sure you also get GOOD quality pads. Brake pads can ruin rotors, not the other way around.
I recommend HAWK (HPS or LTS) since i've had excellent experience with them for years.
Check tirerack.com and google for best prices.
No issues, no noise, no rust.
I've had them before on Nissan Maxima and i was happy for 30k+ miles, then i sold the car.
If you decide to go with blank rotors, you'll never go wrong with Brembo blanks.
Make sure you also get GOOD quality pads. Brake pads can ruin rotors, not the other way around.
I recommend HAWK (HPS or LTS) since i've had excellent experience with them for years.
Check tirerack.com and google for best prices.
Hey guys,
So it’s been well over a year sense I had the power stop slotted & drilled rotors install and have to say I have had zero issues. If you’re having issues with the stock rotors and want to get it done right IMO only upgrade to the Power Stop rotors. I’m going on 12k sense I have had them installed and love them! If you’re in the market for new rotors it worth looking into.
So it’s been well over a year sense I had the power stop slotted & drilled rotors install and have to say I have had zero issues. If you’re having issues with the stock rotors and want to get it done right IMO only upgrade to the Power Stop rotors. I’m going on 12k sense I have had them installed and love them! If you’re in the market for new rotors it worth looking into.
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03-27-15, 12:12 PM
#8
I have mixed feeling with slotted rotors. Sure they look great and are a bit of an upgrade that helps with brake fade and evacuating water (I am not aware the GX suffers from brake fade which is a whole other discussion), but when it comes time to turn them majority of shops out there will not want to turn slotted rotors, which means they are 1 time use and need to be replaced every time.
with the standard kind, you can get at least 1 turn out of them, if not a couple before its not safe to turn anymore. I'm all for performance where its needed like on my SC where brake fade was a concern, but on the GX it seems like a wasteful/costly endeavor every time you have to replace those slotted rotors.
Also slotted rotors result in a lower pad life as its constantly swiping the face of the pad.
so if you are ok with replacing pads and rotors everytime you go in there, then slotted might not seem like a bad idea.
If you have the regular kind, I have heard you can even take it to toyota and nowadays they have a machine that they can turn them while they are on the car.
usually on trucks they are more of a pain to remove so that makes it quite attractive to some people, drop it off and pick it up and the warp is gone for the cost of a resurface.
with the standard kind, you can get at least 1 turn out of them, if not a couple before its not safe to turn anymore. I'm all for performance where its needed like on my SC where brake fade was a concern, but on the GX it seems like a wasteful/costly endeavor every time you have to replace those slotted rotors.
Also slotted rotors result in a lower pad life as its constantly swiping the face of the pad.
so if you are ok with replacing pads and rotors everytime you go in there, then slotted might not seem like a bad idea.
If you have the regular kind, I have heard you can even take it to toyota and nowadays they have a machine that they can turn them while they are on the car.
usually on trucks they are more of a pain to remove so that makes it quite attractive to some people, drop it off and pick it up and the warp is gone for the cost of a resurface.
03-30-15, 05:56 AM
#9
I have mixed feeling with slotted rotors. Sure they look great and are a bit of an upgrade that helps with brake fade and evacuating water (I am not aware the GX suffers from brake fade which is a whole other discussion), but when it comes time to turn them majority of shops out there will not want to turn slotted rotors, which means they are 1 time use and need to be replaced every time.
with the standard kind, you can get at least 1 turn out of them, if not a couple before its not safe to turn anymore. I'm all for performance where its needed like on my SC where brake fade was a concern, but on the GX it seems like a wasteful/costly endeavor every time you have to replace those slotted rotors.
Also slotted rotors result in a lower pad life as its constantly swiping the face of the pad.
so if you are ok with replacing pads and rotors everytime you go in there, then slotted might not seem like a bad idea.
If you have the regular kind, I have heard you can even take it to toyota and nowadays they have a machine that they can turn them while they are on the car.
usually on trucks they are more of a pain to remove so that makes it quite attractive to some people, drop it off and pick it up and the warp is gone for the cost of a resurface.
with the standard kind, you can get at least 1 turn out of them, if not a couple before its not safe to turn anymore. I'm all for performance where its needed like on my SC where brake fade was a concern, but on the GX it seems like a wasteful/costly endeavor every time you have to replace those slotted rotors.
Also slotted rotors result in a lower pad life as its constantly swiping the face of the pad.
so if you are ok with replacing pads and rotors everytime you go in there, then slotted might not seem like a bad idea.
If you have the regular kind, I have heard you can even take it to toyota and nowadays they have a machine that they can turn them while they are on the car.
usually on trucks they are more of a pain to remove so that makes it quite attractive to some people, drop it off and pick it up and the warp is gone for the cost of a resurface.
Most people don't turn rotors anymore...they just replace them.
03-30-15, 08:59 AM
#10
are you saying that they don't affect pad life? I didn't make that up.
I personally don't like to throw away good parts just cause it is easier to replace them, I would get a quality solid rotor and have it turned as needed, like I do on all my non-sports cars.
If I can turn a Brembo blank 3 times, then thats 8 rotors that have been saved from a landfill along with labor for 8 rotor installs. I rather not spend my time or money on that I have enough things to do already.
For example my sc300 has cross drilled and slotted rotors all the way around, and they are good for performance and dissipating that extra heat, but to think that doesn't come at some cost is just wishful thinking I know they are more prone to warping and I will likely have to replace them at the first sign of trouble.
These are all reasons I would not throw them on my family car just like I would not run wheel spacers on my family car either, but feel free to make your own decisions I was just saying what I think and would do, and if the goal is to decrease warpage or get the max out of the pad life, solid rotors would fit the bill pretty well.
I personally don't like to throw away good parts just cause it is easier to replace them, I would get a quality solid rotor and have it turned as needed, like I do on all my non-sports cars.
If I can turn a Brembo blank 3 times, then thats 8 rotors that have been saved from a landfill along with labor for 8 rotor installs. I rather not spend my time or money on that I have enough things to do already.
For example my sc300 has cross drilled and slotted rotors all the way around, and they are good for performance and dissipating that extra heat, but to think that doesn't come at some cost is just wishful thinking I know they are more prone to warping and I will likely have to replace them at the first sign of trouble.
These are all reasons I would not throw them on my family car just like I would not run wheel spacers on my family car either, but feel free to make your own decisions I was just saying what I think and would do, and if the goal is to decrease warpage or get the max out of the pad life, solid rotors would fit the bill pretty well.
03-30-15, 09:08 AM
#11
are you saying that they don't affect pad life? I didn't make that up.
I personally don't like to throw away good parts just cause it is easier to replace them, I would get a quality solid rotor and have it turned as needed, like I do on all my non-sports cars.
For example my sc300 has cross drilled and slotted rotors all the way around, and they are good for performance and dissipating that extra heat, but to think that doesn't come at some cost is just wishful thinking I know they are more prone to warping and I will likely have to replace them at the first sign of trouble.
These are all reasons I would not throw them on my family car just like I would not run wheel spacers on my family car either, but feel free to make your own decisions I was just saying what I think and would do, and if the goal is to decrease warpage or get the max out of the pad life, solid rotors would fit the bill pretty well.
I personally don't like to throw away good parts just cause it is easier to replace them, I would get a quality solid rotor and have it turned as needed, like I do on all my non-sports cars.
For example my sc300 has cross drilled and slotted rotors all the way around, and they are good for performance and dissipating that extra heat, but to think that doesn't come at some cost is just wishful thinking I know they are more prone to warping and I will likely have to replace them at the first sign of trouble.
These are all reasons I would not throw them on my family car just like I would not run wheel spacers on my family car either, but feel free to make your own decisions I was just saying what I think and would do, and if the goal is to decrease warpage or get the max out of the pad life, solid rotors would fit the bill pretty well.
03-30-15, 11:45 AM
#12
you are half right, slotting and drilling helps with heat dissipation (more the drilling than slotting, slotting is really used to wipe the face of the pad, hence wearing it that much more with each pass), but what you are not factoring in is the amount of material that is removed to slot and/or cross drill effectively weakens the structural strength of the rotor.
so you have a little weaker rotor that is faster at dissipating heat, which is good in a performance car where every bit of breaking counts, but the time you do too many hard stops in a row you will have more of a chance of warping the rotor, and then we just replace those and move on our merry way because its worth that little bit of extra breaking on a performance car. It comes back to the "you gotta pay to play" notion of performance parts.
so faster at releasing heat, but weakened strength causes it to be more effective against brake fade, but more susceptible to warping cause the total strength is decreased.
if one could just keep removing material from a rotor without hurting its structural integrity, your rotor would just be a paper thin weave, but we don't have to argue that such a rotor would bend the first time you press the brake.
so you have a little weaker rotor that is faster at dissipating heat, which is good in a performance car where every bit of breaking counts, but the time you do too many hard stops in a row you will have more of a chance of warping the rotor, and then we just replace those and move on our merry way because its worth that little bit of extra breaking on a performance car. It comes back to the "you gotta pay to play" notion of performance parts.
so faster at releasing heat, but weakened strength causes it to be more effective against brake fade, but more susceptible to warping cause the total strength is decreased.
if one could just keep removing material from a rotor without hurting its structural integrity, your rotor would just be a paper thin weave, but we don't have to argue that such a rotor would bend the first time you press the brake.
04-02-15, 08:41 AM
#13
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you are half right, slotting and drilling helps with heat dissipation (more the drilling than slotting, slotting is really used to wipe the face of the pad, hence wearing it that much more with each pass), but what you are not factoring in is the amount of material that is removed to slot and/or cross drill effectively weakens the structural strength of the rotor.
so you have a little weaker rotor that is faster at dissipating heat, which is good in a performance car where every bit of breaking counts, but the time you do too many hard stops in a row you will have more of a chance of warping the rotor, and then we just replace those and move on our merry way because its worth that little bit of extra breaking on a performance car. It comes back to the "you gotta pay to play" notion of performance parts.
so faster at releasing heat, but weakened strength causes it to be more effective against brake fade, but more susceptible to warping cause the total strength is decreased.
if one could just keep removing material from a rotor without hurting its structural integrity, your rotor would just be a paper thin weave, but we don't have to argue that such a rotor would bend the first time you press the brake.
so you have a little weaker rotor that is faster at dissipating heat, which is good in a performance car where every bit of breaking counts, but the time you do too many hard stops in a row you will have more of a chance of warping the rotor, and then we just replace those and move on our merry way because its worth that little bit of extra breaking on a performance car. It comes back to the "you gotta pay to play" notion of performance parts.
so faster at releasing heat, but weakened strength causes it to be more effective against brake fade, but more susceptible to warping cause the total strength is decreased.
if one could just keep removing material from a rotor without hurting its structural integrity, your rotor would just be a paper thin weave, but we don't have to argue that such a rotor would bend the first time you press the brake.
This comment had me concerned until I actually opened the box last night. The rotors are just plain stout, I can see they did bevel where the drilled areas are, and the slots are not very deep to the extent they would compromise the rotor at all.
I am actually pretty dang pleased with what I have seen so far, will install this weekend.