When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I just did this last month. You definitely do NOT need to drain the coolant. The only things I removed were: skid plate, v-belt, and power steering pulley. The bolt on the PS pulley is listed as a non-reusable part, but I reused it anyways. You also need to remove the front plastic shroud, v-bank cover, and passenger side plastic shroud.
Once you get the power steering pulley off, the alternator can be removed. But it is a PAIN PAIN PAIN to get the alternator out the bottom of the truck. Took literally forever, I tried for a few hours over the course of several days and cursed a lot. But eventually in some contorted way, got it out. Getting the new one in was easier once I figured that the right side of the cross member allowed the easiest access to get it out and in from underneath.
Agree, the steps above are correct. Just replaced mine, took about 2 hours for the entire job. It's not difficult at all.
As far as reusable bolt on PS pulley, just make sure you put some Lock-Tite when you reinstall the PS pulley and it will be good to go. The bolt from the factory has Lock-Tite already applied.
It wasn't difficult to remove alternator from underneath
- Remove engine wires
- Undo 10mm screws that hold several hoses underneath.
- Remove alternator.
- If you have KDSS, loosen the bar to get enough clearance
Yes. Thought was the battery but the battery light remained on after replacing the battery. Went back to autozone and they diagnosed a faulty alternator. Same symptoms as someone posted previously.
Great thread! Just finished the job on GX470 2008. I removed the reserve tank from the radiator and detached one of the radiator hoses to get to the PS pulley. It is a challenge to get the alternator out once it's loose.
Hey all.... Just wanted to give my 2 cents on this job...
It seems everyone is wrestling with removing the alternator from the bottom. This of course requires removing bolts, moving hoses, lines, PS pulley, possibly coolant tanks...etc....
NONE of this is necessary!
I successfully removed the alternator from the wheel well opening behind the rubber cover.
350k and 11 years on the original alternator....not too bad...
Just replaced my alternator yesterday. At 98K miles it suddenly started whining loudly, produced an electrical smell, and my Ultragauge showed a voltage of slightly less than 12 volts at the OBD port when idling. The charge light never illuminated on the dash though.
I got a Denso remanufactured unit off Amazon delivered overnight for $169 plus $10 shipping, with no tax or core charge. Gotta love Amazon Prime.
I had taken the fan shroud and fan off when I was diagnosing the problem, so I ended up pulling the old alternator out from the top. It just barely fit between the radiator and center engine shroud. Pulling the dust flap in the passenger wheel well made getting the electrical connectors off easily, but I had absolutely no luck getting the alternator to squeeze out that way. Also had to pull the skid plate, loosen the hose mount in front of the alternator, and loosen the power steering pump too.
Ultragauge now reads 13.9 volts at idle.
I pulled the cover off the old alternator and checked the brushes, but they look fine. Not sure if it's worth it to get it rebuilt locally as a spare or just toss it.
I 'll check into that and report back any positive findings!
EDIT - about $60 for the front plate and front bearing, or about $15 for just the front bearing. Brushes are about $17. There's also a bearing at the rotor.
The electrical smell when mine went bad makes me worry it's more than just a bearing, so I don't think I'll bother throwing money/effort into refurbishing it. If anyone wants this broken alternator to repair yourself or use as a core, you can pay shipping and I'll send it to you. Offer ends in one week (May 21, 2015).
02-20-14, 03:41 PM
