new2005GX

Mann you are scaring me lol..

Correct me if I am wrong -- If I line up the timing marks on the camshafts/crank and also match up the marks on the old & new belts this is virtually impossible to screw up right? I'm comfortable with all aspects of this job except lining the belt up correctly since if it is done wrong it will be catastrophic.

I watched a youtube video of a guy changing the t belt on an LS430 and it didn't look that hard - time consuming and laborious but not hard.

mann777

There is nothing to be scared about, if your confident in doing the job, Just match the notch marks exactly on the pulley with some white marker and to the body. This is the best way, so if any of the pulley are mis-matched while turning, you can always follow the thumbrule mentioned on my earlier note.
The LS was very easy done, As I have many and even done for my friends. On the LS The body of Crankshaft pulley had a mark ""0"". And you had to do is line up to match the notch made on the pulley to the Zero. that was pretty easy stuff I would say. And I am sure you will able to do it, It is a big job that is why the dealer charge so high becoz of the man hours involved. Just get the rite tools and I am pretty confident you will get this like a peice of cake. Here are the tool list if you are not familiar.

Tools Needed:

Breaker bar or impact wrench
Socket wrenches
Socket extensions
Angled socket joints
Torque wrench capable of reading at least 200-250 ft-lbs
Harmonic balancer pulley remover (this can usually be rented from Autozone or you could buy one.

I also replaced my plugs, filters and spark plug wires. These are just optional you dont have to.
cheers

ROSCOGX470

Great write up as usual Mann777. I bought the Aisin TB kit that includes WP as well as 2 pulleys and hydraulic tensioner. I plan on picking up a thermostat and Toyota LL coolant. Anything else as far as parts needed? My mechanic friend does the work in his driveway so I have to wait for warmer weather( it's 7 degrees in Boston today). It's worth it for $40 per hour cash.

Vinniety

iTrader: (1)

It seems that a few others are thinking the same thing as me. I had this on my mind for a while and now it has come down to getting it complete. I ordered the kit from sewell plus a few other things. The waterpump, thermostat with gasket, timing belt, 2 pulleys, coolant, cabin filter and some engine clips for the covers that i have lost in the past for less then four hundred shipped. The club lexus discount was awesome. Reading instructions and watching a few youtube videos and asking friends that are mechanics and it seems to not be a bad job. Planning to do it within the next two weeks. I will try to take pictures and post them up.

ROSCOGX470

DIY pics and instructions would be greatly appreciated by the members I'm sure.

new2005GX

Thanks, Mann. I plan on replacing my plugs since I need to take them over to spin the crank (final test before reassembly). I feel like this is just one of those jobs that it is impossible to fully anticpate and I will simply "understand" when I get it apart. Crank bolt will be a PITA, I just know it will but i always like a good challenge - makes me a better mechanic!

After reading up on this ad nauseum I am ready to do this job as soon as the weather warms up. I will sleep much better when everything is replaced as I am coming up on 100K. Next on the list are tranny flush and probably shocks. Just did all brakes (including rotors and calipers) and drivers side wheel bearing. Truck is relatively easy to work on - most things are laid out pretty logically and facilitate repair.

Did you use the manual? Any idea where I can get the torque values for all the parts w/o the FSM?

Vinniety

iTrader: (1)

After 12 hours i was out on the road for a quick test drive. It was a very long day but i took a lot of pictures and i documented as much as i could on a notepad and at the same time put the bolts and nuts in a plastic sandwich bag for each part i took off. yes i did take a few minor breaks through out, lunch bathroom water or just a quick sit down to review the documents i had printed for my next step. I also took a VERY long time marking up the old belt just to make sure. I bought a five pack of color sharpies. These were in five different colors and were actually paint markers got them at staples. I cant write what was my each step during the process but It was almost common sense when your taking everything off remove the nuts and bolts and that specific piece will come off. It was just when you get to the timing belt is where you need to be focused and in no rush. Mark everything you can and take pictures. My water pump was leaking which i didnt know until i got to it so i recommend to get a new unit. Trust me that dam thing is so far in there i DO NOT at least fingers crossed planned to go in there again to change a water pump. I really think the water pump design is ridiculous. Below are some random pictures showing what i did. Any questions just let me know its still all fresh in my mind. After the the test drive i was happy the truck was running good i replaced the plugs and did an oil change. Tranny fluid change is next and that will be the last fluid that needs to be changed. All the fluids have been changed within the last 10k miles. The truck currently has 110K miles so i was over 20k on the timing belt. Trust me wasnt happy but my wife can rack up those miles in no time.

Mparent

Great pics. I love to see clear shots with good lighting. You were close enough to get good detail but not so close you loose the reference points. I would to see your final documented write up with photos. Thank you for sharing. Mike

new2005GX

Nice work!

A few questions while the job is still fresh in your mind:

1). What did you torque the Water Pump to? Do you have the bolt sequence (tightening) by chance?

2). Was it hard to line the marks up on the new belt? Did you simply transfer the marks from the old to new belt and then slap the new one in?

3). What did you use to remove the crank pulley?

Thanks!

Getting ready to do this job. Can't wait until it is over with so I don't have to worry about that stupid belt.

mann777

Here is the rough list of other parts to have them changed, and the discount which sewell offers.
13505-0F010 IDLER TB LIST 88.45 COST 67.54
13540-50030 13540-50030 TENSIONER TB LIST 56.16 COST 42.88
13503-0F010 IDLER TB LIST 88.83 COST 67.82
13568-09070 13568-09070 BELT, TB LIST 52.33 COST 39.95
16100-59275-83 PUMP ASSY WATER LIST 143.07 COST 109.02
16346-50010 16346-50010 GASKET, T/STAT LIST 4.32 COST 3.29
90916-03100 90916-03100 THERMOSTAT LIST 18.99 COST 14.50
96761-35035 96761-35035 RING, O LIST 3.54 COST 2.71
17801-50040 ELEMENT AIR LIST 27.00 COST 20.69
23300-50120 23300-50120 FILTER FUEL LIST 55.59 COST 42.44
90915-YZZD3 FILTER, OIL LIST 5.41 COST 4.11
12204-50030 12204-50030 VALVE PCV LIST 8.64 COST 6.59
87139-47010-83 ELEMENT, CABIN LIST 20.99 COST 16.12
90916-02586 90916-02586 BELT, DRIVE LIST 51.88 COST 39.61
90080-91180 90080-91180 PLUG, SPARK IRRIDIUM LIST 10.37 COST 7.90

Vinniety

iTrader: (1)

I actually forgot to mention i replaced the thermostat and gasket as well. Sewell gave me some good prices.

ALAN553

i see a fuel filter on the list? isnt that in the gas tank and non servicable?

Vinniety

iTrader: (1)

1). What did you torque the Water Pump to? Do you have the bolt sequence (tightening) by chance? As for the bolt sequence i always look at it like putting on a tire i go from one end to the other or basically the farthest to that one bolt i just tightened. I keep going around a few times to make sure its snug then i torque them doing with the same routine. As for the torque numbers im sorry i don't have them with me.

2). Was it hard to line the marks up on the new belt? Did you simply transfer the marks from the old to new belt and then slap the new one in? I transferred the marks to the new belt. It was easier and i felt more comfortable doing it that way. I also turned the motor two-three times after the new belt was installed making sure that at the end of the 360 degree turn that both cams matched up on the marks and as well as the crank with my red mark. I turned the motor using a big 3/4 ratchet. This was before i had the fan and radiator in so i had plenty of room. Turn the crank clockwise and go slow. The faster you go the harder it is to turn.

3). What did you use to remove the crank pulley? I used my air compressor at first and the bolt didn't move. I ended up clamping on a big vise grips onto the crank pulley and using a breaker bar nice and easy. Once i got a quarter turn i used the compressor tool from there. Putting it back on i used the compressor tool and then torqued it.

Vinniety

iTrader: (1)

In my 2004 its in the tank i think after 2005 or 2006 its out of the tank. basically they got wiser, hahah

mann777

Torque Specs
Water Pump - 5 Bolts - 21 Nm ( 215 Kgf.cm / 16ft.lbf)
Install the Water Pump and New Gasket with the 5 Bolts and the 2 Stud Bolts and Nut. First time give it a uniform thread turn to the bolts.this must be done in several sequences

The Water Inlet gasket replacement which is within the housing.
Remove the previous gasket packing with a sharp blade or some scraper. And replace the gasket
Seal Packing Part no - 08826-00100.
Stud Bolt and nt - 18 Nm ( 185Kgf / 13ft.lbf). 2 nos Torque specs
You know the rest I assume
Installation is both done once fitted.