JWS3

I know that many here install various aftermarket toys and often need a switched source for power (goes on/off with the ignition). So, I figured I'd pass on what I learned tonight.

I was working on installing my laser jamming equipment and needed a switched power source, somewhere near the fuse box. After poking and prodding, not to mention seeing how most of the wires are "micro gauge", I noticed a large 2 wire connector going into the driver's side interior fuse panel, more on the left bottom. I like everything to look totally factory and hate "amateur" looking work.
I started to think..hmmmm.... there was both switched and unswitched fuses here..... I bet one those are power inputs and one of them is switched. So, out comes the voltmeter. Whaddya know? One is indeed switched and the other not. If I recall, the blue wire with the yellow stripe was switched. All I had to do is solder in a "tap" wire and voila-- a nice, secure source for switched power. I don't use those 3M "scotchlock" squeeze taps as they fail too easily.

Hope this helps-- So far so good. Got Sirius radio, hardwired V-1, xenondepot 4300k lights, Zaino wax and, as soon as I finish wiring tomorrow night, a 3 head Lidatek laser jamming system to help deal with the revenuers.

trebien

I used the wires for the cig lighter... I was down in that vicinity, anyway, to mount the remote for the radar detector. Sounds like you found a nice, good-sized power wire to tap off of. Wonder what it goes to?

JWS3

As best as I can figure, the wire appears to be the fuse panel's power source. It could also be a feed to points later down the line, but which is which is beyond my limited knowledge.

I hard wired my V1 from the maplight/dome cluster as there is less wire to run that way and I avoided running up the "A" pillar. I wanted a wire that was a bit "meatier", even though the device I am using draws very little power. Better safe than sorry!

peterGX470

The best place to tap your 12V is the outlet on the heated seats panel. That souce is switches on via ignition key plus it can handle 120W of power.

You won't fine a fuse in the engine compartment or inside the truck becauseit has a circuit breaker that automatic reset once there a shorted. Just turn key to off position and on agian to reset that breaker.

Tapping into this 12V souce does not take away power for other instrument or systems power.

FYI

trebien

Peter - basically the reasons I chose that outlet for power. It was designed to have power drawn from it. Nowadays, with all the electronics being integrated, and many cars using some sort of system "bus"... it's getting harder to find a good power lead that will suredely NOT harm other systems.

Capirato

FWIW: There has been no mention of on-line fuses when tapping onto large wires. Maybe to all of you it's obvious, but to others it may not be.

~ Cap

JWS3

at least to me. You are nevertheless 100% correct. No new circuit or tap therefrom should be without an appropriately sized fuse. All devices I installed have one, which is pretty much always provided be the manufacturer. Any circuit w/o a fuse is an invitation to disaster.

Jim

JWS3

Was any disassembly involved?

trebien

For me there was, to also run the wire for the rader detector remote.

The sides panels( wood) and then the center console had to come off. Fairly easy, though be careful with those wood panels. I had my whole dash apart at the time, because I was also installing the iPod adapter.

sayadil

Trebien if you had the dash open then why dint u use the power from the back of the head unit for the power source... my installer tapped into that to get switched power and same on the landcruiser as well.. that seems to be a good place to hook up.

trebien

Maybe I wasn't clear. The iPod adapter works off the stereo head unit, so is powered from it.

I needed a switched power source for the radar detector remote display, which was being mounted right by the differential lock switch on the center console.

1. - The cig lighter/power port was located right there. Why go through the trouble to run the wire all the way to the back of the unit? Especially when the power outlet is right there. One simple tap, and you're in.
2. - Yes, the radio wiring is designed to power something (the radio), but I would rather mess with possible electrical feedback and introducing noise to the circuit on a power outlet, then the actual power for the head unit/NAV, a sensitive $3000+ piece of equipment.

It just makes much more sense to pull power for a secondary device, from a power port that is designed to have power drawn from it, rather than risk interference or damage to the head unit. The power port is switched. I see no advantage to pulling power from the head unit harness.

sayadil

well don't know about that.. its just i was telling you from what was done on both of my cars so i was wondering since you already had the dash open at the time.. u could have done it that way as well. to me head unit seems closer to the dash where radars usually go.. lighter is below the unit...and unless ur running wires straight from the radar to the lighter source.. it would have been less work hookin it up behind the unit on an already opened dash. wires usualy go in from the vents to the back of the unit.. i would imagine it to be the same way for lighter as well.
just my opinion.

trebien

sayadil -

As far as "What's best for the car" I think we can all agree that pulling power from the power port rather than the head unit is the safest route.

As far as "convenience", please re-read this sentence and it should be more clear:

sayadil

oh ok.. i understand now.. u mounted it rite by the differential.. my bad. cool

trebien

Yes. Here's a picture: