I started hating my GX. The brake wrapped crazy and I can't stand anymore, wife also complained about the brakes. This is the third set of OEM and only 9K on it. The original set is last 60K. Then next OEM last 15K. Went aftermarket and last 10K. Back to OEM and it wrapped from beginning but now less than 10K.

I am in a market for a new set. I don't know what will end up with. My plan is replace all around and may include front caliper too.

What are your experiences with? Please let me know what direction should I go and where to buy rotors, paths

Thanks alot

 

I have used centric pads and rotors, lasted 45K, started to feel the "wrap" shudder the last 10 K of use. Also calipers notorious for seizing. My mechanic has replaced them twice gratis...

 

Hello Alan553, What the model of Centric pads and rotors are you using and where do you buy it.

Thanks

 

You do know it's WARPED, not WRAPPED, don't you?

 

I just ordered a set of Powerstop Z23 Evolution Sport performance from Carparts.

set of front and rear drilled and slotted rotors with pads for $300. I gotta do the work myself, but I fortunately am somewhat mechanically inclined for that work.


Also to your post: Are you breaking them in correctly? A lot of sets, if you are doing rotors have very specific break in procedures, very important for new rotors.

 

It's the OEM replacement parts from them. You can find it on their website. I did not do it myself this time, this is what my local non Lexus mechanic uses.

 

Have you checked for seized pistons in your calipers? It could be a reason you keep getting warped rotors. That was my experience.

 

Exactly this ! Go to autozone buy 2 front calipers about $80 bucks for each with trade in old ones and you will get a lifetime warranty for calipers.

 

Another guy here that's had to replace a front caliper, and our GX looked to have had the other replaced already when we got it. Very common failure point on these trucks and will lead to warped rotors.

 

You can always install a big brake kit.

http://thmotorsports.com/i-1683433.a...FShn7AodKAIAEA

 

Do you or your wife ride your brakes?

 

Been there done that...I feel your pain... OEM rotors and pads are junk...had them on my 4runner...and a lot of after market rotors are junk... Here's what I did.... EBC slotted sport rotors all the way around with HAWK HTC pads...proper torque on all lugs and proper bed in process....smooth as silk ever sense. good luck

 

start breaking earlier and use less force. if you keep breaking late, you need to use more force and it clamps down hardest on one side when it first bites and this over time causes them to warp unevenly (also from heat) if you get unlucky and it keeps happening in the same spots. if you apply the brake more slowly and evenly you may find them lasting twice as long as the force is more distributed evenly as the rotor is turning effectively wearing them down more evenly. plus its safer to brake earlier and more slowly.
That being said, with a vehicle as heavy as this it is still bound to happen here and there, its part of the maintenance, but it shouldn't happen every 10-15k that is way to little.
either someones mashing the pedal or you could have a stuck caliper piston as others mentioned.

 

How do you check for a stuck caliper piston? I started feeling the pulse about 10k after changing pads and rotors (OEM).

 

This is what I've done. Others may have more formal or technically correct means.

The pistons are the round metal tubes inside the the caliper that push on brake pads, forcing them against the rotor and giving you the braking force/action (forgive me if I insult your intelligence unintentionally). If one of them is seized, you might be able to see that it is no longer in contact with your brake pad or the pad doesn't sit flush and evenly against the rotor.

To be sure, you should probably take the pads out and see if you can get each piston to move freely. With a fair amount of hand strength, you should be able to push each one on its own into the caliper a little bit. You don't need to go too far. If you find one that doesn't want to move, even with pliers, you have a frozen piston.

This is the kind of thing that is noticeable when you change a thin, worn pad for a new, thick one.