Knucklebus

A month ago I was pretty sure it was the tires making the noise. It sounded like a 4x4 truck with monster mudders. After a 100 mile drive on a lot of back roads today, I've convinced myself it is a the driver side rear wheel bearing. In a hard left turn the noise almost completely goes away and if I hit a rise that gives me some unloaded suspension, it also goes away. When I take a hard right at speed it does not go away.

I'm about to order one as the passenger side doesn't sound bad. Amazon has one for $78.
I'm looking for a how-to but the one I found at CL looks like it was cobbled together by a 3rd grader from every car on the planet, using images of drum brakes, requiring strut removal and other unrelated nonsense.

Mainly, I want to know what size the axle nut is, the torque spec for it and the hub bolts. Is there anything unexpected to be aware of? I've done this job on the front of 4x4 trucks so I'm not expecting anything more complex than that. I know not to let the rotor hang, don't break the sensor wires, etc.

Thanks in advance.

salimshah

Not answering your questions here, but few general comments ..

Make sure it is the bearing .. play or drag.

Noise (and drag) can be from other source(s).

If you pull out the rear axle from diff, replace the seal and the clip. [you can undo the flange instead].

Do you plan use the press? If yes, then you will have to do more disassembly/reassembly. There are press-in/out kits available [you can loan them] and do in-situ replacement.

Check with the dealer for the latest part number of the bearing. [When I replaced my SC front bearing, the older part was being discounted.

Somehow I remember that it is advised to replace the bearings in pairs.

Salim

Knucklebus

What other things could roar be, specifically? I've loaded one side then the other in the hard curves and it is definitely gone in a hard left but not in straight or right turns.

So, is that to say the torque on the nut isn't what holds the shaft into the splines of the hub? It has to be pressed out of the hub? Searching has turned up little in the way of replacement procedure or specs on the axle nut.

I'm not one to blindly replace things just because the dealers like to maximize profits. For all I know the right one was already replaced before I got it. I'll check it to be sure but I won't replace it without a fault being evident.

waygreen

I'm having trouble running down the size in my manual but it appears to be a 12 point, for whatever that's worth. I'm seeing 214 ft.lbs. as the torque spec.

edit: since the nut is not reusable, I'd just order it beforehand and take it to the hardware store to locate a socket that would fit.

Knucklebus

Any info on it requiring a press fit?

waygreen

I think what that poster was referring to was using a press to get the old bearing out of, and new bearing into, the hub assembly. From the pictures, it appears to be a "normal" hub assembly that doesn't require a press to remove (frankly, I'm not even sure how one would use a press laterally but I'm not the smartest guy in world, so who knows). Once unbolted, a few whacks with a plastic hammer is all the manual is calling for. Unfortunately, the manual does not address removing the bearing from the hub assembly but again, I suspect that is what the press business was about.

eddie420

I had two of mine replaced (bad snowstorm, bad roads, bad pot holes, etc.) because I would constantly hear this grinding noise when making turns. Told the dealer I wanted them replaced and they replaced them under warranty.

Front axle hub and bearing assembly - 43560-30031

Rear axle hub and bearing assembly - 42410-30041

Difficulty is on par or less than a 4x4 for an AWD. Not sure what you are talking about removing struts, makes no sense. lol

Knucklebus

Great! I'm not going to put new bearings in the old hub. New hubs with bearings installed are cheap enough to just do the whole thing. I'll toss the old one in the scrap metal pile.

This is the nonsense I was referring to. Totally substandard DIY info. Club Lexus: How to Replace a Wheel Hub Bearing

If it is not a press fit, the hub assembly appears to be assembled (hence the name?) and merely needs to be R&R'd. I can handle that in an afternoon.

I appreciate the info.

Knucklebus

I've ordered the hub and nut for one side. I'll post my results and maybe take some pics along the way to provide others with a possible solution. If nothing else, I can serve as what NOT to do if it goes horribly wrong.

eddie420

Thanks for the efforts, looking forward to it! Godspeed!

Knucklebus

Well, this is what they sent for a lock nut on the axle. I measure it at 32mm.

The bearing is stuck in Canadian customs on its way to the US.


32mm lock nut

package

Knucklebus

Well, all the bolts are undone. I even got the axle to slide back from the hub a bit. The 10mm Allen bolts that hold the hub on appear to be captive. The problem I have now is getting the hub to separate from the knuckle. The iron hub seems to be seized to the aluminum knuckle. Soaking it in WD-40 and going to get an axle slide hammer to see if I can break it loose.

waygreen

Good luck! Try some penetrating oil if you have it. I find works a bit better than WD. If the oil and slide hammer don't work, maybe hit it with a torch for a bit.

Edit: the pics in my manual aren't great so I don't know if this is necessary, but they remove the whole rear assembly, then remove a dust cover from the back of the bearing assembly and then remove the bearing assembly. With the bad pics I cant tell if the dust cover could be the culprit that's keeping you from getting the bearing assembly off.

Knucklebus

I resist torches as much as possible unless it is all cast iron. Aluminum makes me uneasy. I'm using Kroil as well as WD40. Until now it has just been a pain, nothing really difficult. My wife is picking up a loaner slide hammer from Advance.

waygreen

Ah, my bad. Good point. Also, I edited my post while you were replying. Maybe see about removing the whole axle assembly...