ssjkev16

Hey everyone, I need some HELP!!

I was on the freeway coming off of an exit ramp and then all of a suddent my check engine light comes on flashing and then I get a message saying that my traction control is off and then it felt as if my engine just started to lose power and vibrate pretty violently when trying to accelerate again. Managed to pull over safely to the side, turned off the engine and checked all my fluid levels - which was all fine. Now when the car is restarted, the check engine light stays on as well as the traction control off message, and when I try to accelerate, the engine vibrates hard unless I ever so slowly give it gas, and during idle, the engine is also vibrating!

Does anyone here have any idea what could be going on?! currently have 48k miles on the odometer. Thanks in advance!

Nvicta

IndyIS

Very odd issue for only 48k on the odometer. Like Nvicta, I had the same problem on my 2006 4Runner right after I bought it (bought used with 72k miles on it), but that was a V8 AWD so different setup, and happened at 75k miles.

Maybe bad gas? I run Chevron Complete Fuel Cleaner (https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...m=chevron+fuel) - pour in the tank first, then fill up with high quality premium fuel (Exxon, Shell, etc.) then drive a few miles to get it through the system. If that doesn't help, then go to the dealer. I'd hate to see you go there first without trying a less expensive option.

I put Chevron through all my cars and have for years and haven't had the need to pay for the dealer to flush the system. I've also used Seafoam through the intake on other cars, but I don't recommend on your car given the lower mileage.

Revert back with any findings when you have a second.

Nvicta

I'll also add that my Tundra was a garage queen, only used on weekends for camping so it had 8 years and 17,000 miles on it when it gummed up. Not old, but old enough for the fuel in the lines to lacquer up. I agree with Indy recommendation and taking the least expensive steps first.

bclexus

It sounds like you might have purchased some bad fuel or something is haywire with the car's fuel system. I'd recommend taking it to your Lexus dealership, it's doubtful it is going to be something you can fix...and you can't drive the car with it acting like that.

ssjkev16

OK so I borrowed my friend's scan tool and this is the trouble codes that it came up with and doing some quick google searching, some possible causes could be bad spark plugs, bad ignition coil, bad fuel injectors, O2 sensor, fuel pressure off, or insufficient cylinder compression... but given the relatively low miles on the vehicle. What do you guys think is the most likely culprit as I would ideally want to go about repairing this myself or buying the neccessary parts and bringing it to a local mechanic for repairs as opposed to the Lexus dealership which I know would most likely run me about $1K to fix given that they charge $150 for diagnostic and $125 per hour. Any input is again greatly appreciated!

IndyIS

If it were me, I'd rank these issues. Given the low mileage, you can put aside bad plugs, coils or fuel injectors and focus on the other possibilities. Although there are several factors that can lead to each of these remaining codes, one cause for certain is bad gas and/or excess water in your gas tank. Bad gas or excess water in the tank will also cause most of the issues you noted in your original post.

Are you putting premium fuel in your tank? What gas are you filling up with most of the time? Try this first... in addition to the Chevron Fuel System I posted above, add a bottle of water remover as well. Run the car for a few before putting new gas in, then pump some high end fuel. I'm a big fan of Shell, Exxon or BP.

For what it's worth, years ago I stopped chasing price over quality when my old 200k+ mileage jeep cherokee sport would knock and shake with Speedway gas, but ran great with Shell or BP. Since then I only choose lower tier stations when in need of gas, and even then I won't completely fill up the tank.

Good luck, keep us posted.

bclexus

I think your search for the cause will be like you looking for a four leaf clover from your car while driving down the road at 60 mph.

rog1206

iTrader: (4)

You're throwing codes for cylinder 6 quite a few times. Try swapping the cylinder 6 coil with a different cylinder to see if a different code pops up instead of the "306". I'm not sure what the orientation of the cylinders are but I'm guessing it's one of the cylinder near the firewall. If it's a faulty coil, you'll throw a "301-305" code based on which cylinder you swapped coil with. If not, it might a clogged or faulty injector.

er34

You should not attempt to drive the car when the CEL is flashing(solid CEL is OK). Get the car towed before you cause any further damage.