Rear Wheel Stud Replacement
02-13-18, 10:21 AM
#16
Instructor
Thread Starter
The point I'm making is when the nut keeps turning and the torque is not going up, it's not seated properly. When it happened to me before the torque would not go past 40-50 ft/lb's, it was obviously hung up on something, but able to spin freely. Had I kept turning it I was afraid of slowly stretching the stud to the point that it snaps off.
02-13-18, 06:47 PM
#18
Instructor
Thread Starter
Final update unless there are questions that I can answer to help someone else.
First, the stud came out and went in pretty easily.
Second, I checked the front wheels, which I've not touch yet, and found them torqued to about 150ft/lb. Some were more as the torque wrench snapped over but still had to keep going to get the lug to break loose. Now I know all wheels are torqued to the correct number and should I be on the side of the road with a flat, I will not be losing my religion over the darned nuts.
Steps I took, omitting the obvious jack up, use stands, etc. starting at wheel removed
1) Remove caliper at caliper bracket to axle hub, spreading the pads apart and placing a strip of wood between the pads to hold them there and wiring to control arm
2) Coat rotor center and extraction holes with WD40. This thing was pretty corroded
3) Extract rotor, clean center of rotor and hub for easier replacement
4) Move hub to where no damage will be done by exiting broken stud, tap out with necessary force
5) Clean hole, check fit and start new stud in hole, apply a bit of WD40 to ease the start
6) Use two hugely thick washers, about 1/8" thick each, that I thinly coat with bearing grease and start a spare, open ended lug nut
7) While watching the back side, crank on it as necessary, I probably didn't have to use more than 100lb/ft of torque to get it to slide in
8) Reinstall rotor, hopefully easier than removal
9) Remove block of wood from caliper, place back on rotor and bolt down to spec
10) Reinstall wheel, torque to 76lb/ft in stages
11) Tap brakes one time before attempting to move car so the slack is definitely removed from the caliper that was spread apart
First, the stud came out and went in pretty easily.
Second, I checked the front wheels, which I've not touch yet, and found them torqued to about 150ft/lb. Some were more as the torque wrench snapped over but still had to keep going to get the lug to break loose. Now I know all wheels are torqued to the correct number and should I be on the side of the road with a flat, I will not be losing my religion over the darned nuts.
Steps I took, omitting the obvious jack up, use stands, etc. starting at wheel removed
1) Remove caliper at caliper bracket to axle hub, spreading the pads apart and placing a strip of wood between the pads to hold them there and wiring to control arm
2) Coat rotor center and extraction holes with WD40. This thing was pretty corroded
3) Extract rotor, clean center of rotor and hub for easier replacement
4) Move hub to where no damage will be done by exiting broken stud, tap out with necessary force
5) Clean hole, check fit and start new stud in hole, apply a bit of WD40 to ease the start
6) Use two hugely thick washers, about 1/8" thick each, that I thinly coat with bearing grease and start a spare, open ended lug nut
7) While watching the back side, crank on it as necessary, I probably didn't have to use more than 100lb/ft of torque to get it to slide in
8) Reinstall rotor, hopefully easier than removal
9) Remove block of wood from caliper, place back on rotor and bolt down to spec
10) Reinstall wheel, torque to 76lb/ft in stages
11) Tap brakes one time before attempting to move car so the slack is definitely removed from the caliper that was spread apart
Last edited by Knucklebus; 02-16-19 at 09:06 AM.
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02-16-19, 09:07 AM
#19
Instructor
Thread Starter
By way of final update, I replaced the hub for a failing bearing roar. I know the studs aren't mistreated on this side now.
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