All I can say to what CWang was writing - WHAT:confused: Way over my head. My takeaway, unplug the battery if you are working on door switches. Though I thought unplugging the battery on the Hybrid causes its own set of problems.....

I have never had an issue disconnecting the 12v battery in the trunk of my 450h. Most of the time I work on my car I don't disconnect the battery, unless I'm removing and airbag like swapping the steering wheel or seats. Or dealing with a live wire.

No need to disconnect battery for removing the door switches unless you plan on leaving it disconnected for a few days, apparently.

peasodos - You may not want to perform a simple test, because it's never good to purposely drain a battery unless it is a deep cycle battery, but it would be interesting to find out if disconnecting the window switches again drains the battery again. That would confirm if the battery drain you experienced was caused by the car's continuous monitoring of the Master/Slave wiring configuration.

Thanks Peasodos. I thought I had read a thread or two of people having start-up problems when replacing the 12V battery. As in, somehow bridging the power between the old and new batteries, so that neither one is disconnected for very long. I have never replaced mine in my 2013, but going on seven years in Florida seems like a long time. I have never had one go over 5 years. But good to know, there are not supposed to be problems switching out the battery when the time comes. Just will have to reread the thread, so I don't pay $800 for a 12V battery from the Lexus dealer.

I'll admit I was nervous when changing mine. I think the key is to confidently make firm, clean connections ie don't get scarred by the arcing and let it spark 5 times, that could cause damage.

On another note, when is Peasodos getting his(?) YouTube channel started?

FML

So my battery died again today. I jump started the car and went to advance auto and they tested the battery it came back good condition and was reading 12.56v

Now I'm scratching my head as to what is draining the battery.

Can it really be the network gateway ecu gone bad at 100k miles?

I'll have to check techstream later today for any DTC's

Should you maybe put your GS switches back in, just to rule that change out?

The original door switches are in the car, I just changed the plastic window switch levers, all the original GS electronics are in tact.

I scanned my car with techstream and had like 20 codes, most of that is from me working on the car and turning it on with things disconnected, so I cleared all the codes, ran it again and it's error free, except for one related to me changing the radio.

I'm going to drive the car and check for DTC's later. Also get a battery load tester and test the 12v battery when/if it's drained again.

That's what went bad on my car at around 80,000 miles. Batteries went dead about four random times.