Right rear wheel bearing was howling, so I replaced it yesterday. Now the ABS light, BRAKE light, brake symbol and skid marks (VSC?) lights are on (see first picture). I removed the sensor, found a metal shaving on it, cleaned, reinstalled and lights are still on. Sensor resistance is measuring 1422 ohms. I checked resistance of plug terminals to be sure wire was not broken and got resistance, so the wire seems to be connected to the system. Connected OBD/ABS reader and it said "ABS Not Detected", so could not reset codes, but I figure the ABS would reset if it were fixed, so the lights should go out when I get everything OK.

Close inspection of the sensor indicates damage to lower housing, like something rubbed against it (see second picture). Could this be causing the problem and if so, should I be concerned about installing a replacement and damaging it? I do not know the torque of the center wheel nut, I probably put 100 ft/bls on it, could that be narrowing the clearance for the sensor? That is what it seemed to be originally, but I could have guessed wrong. The new wheel bearing solved the howling and the car rides great now.





Any ideas on how to troubleshoot much appreciated.

 

Forgot to mention, but the ABS and other lights were not on until the new bearing was installed.

 

After posting, I figured there was nothing to lose by sanding the worn surface of the sensor. Put sandpaper on a flat surface and sanded sensor with 120 grit then 2000 grit. The surface was not a mirror finish, but the groove marks were removed. Reinstalled, drove it, and in less than a quarter mile the lights went out.

Also, if anyone is looking for sensors, Rock Auto seems to be a great name brand name source, but Amazon has some off brands for as low as $20, with positive reviewers saying they work fine.

 

I guess there had to be an air gap for the magnetic flux to do its thing props on repairing it without replacing any more parts. I buy the cheapest ABS sensors available never had a problem figure making a coil of wire around a piece of metal is about as simple an electrical device gets hard to screw it up. So you did replace the sensor when you did the wheel bearing?

 

No replacement, same sensor originally installed on the car.

 

Why did it rub against the tone ring? BTW in theory the axle nut torque sets the pre-load on the bearing so it should be done to spec. In practice I tighten the nut "until it stops turning" I will probably get flack for that but never had a come back.

 

Not sure if the rubbing was during the failing bearing or when I was installing the new one. Seems to be fine now, but I did not tighten until it stopped, probably could have gone another half turn at least, just snugged to the vicinity of what it took to loosen it. It has a crimp nut and the crimp lined up at the same place I thought the original torque was replicated.

I do not think the center nut torque on this car pre-loads the bearing, it is only tightening the spline CV shaft to the hub.

 

You should torque the nut to spec otherwise it's possible the new bearing won't last long. Can't count on the replacement being exactly the same as the original.

 

Will try to find spec

 

If it damaged the sensor, it may be ruined. Those hub assemblies must be torqued by hand to factory spec! 100ft/lbs sounds very low.

 

Thanks, you are both correct, 100 ft/lbs is low. Spec for rear axle is 214 lbs. Will torque to this, fortunately, the bearing has about 10 miles on it, you caught it in time.