07 GS350 Manifold removal
03-14-19, 04:53 PM
#1
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Thread Starter
07 GS350 Manifold removal
i am in the process of replacing my catalytic converters on my car. I am down to the last two bolts on the driver side header. The ones that sit under the manifold but are conveniently blocked by the steering shaft.
unlike the exhaust write up, the gs350 does not seem to have a way to move the steering shaft to get to the last two manifold bolts.
any assistance on how to properly tackle these two bolts would be greatly appreciated.
edit.
AWD
unlike the exhaust write up, the gs350 does not seem to have a way to move the steering shaft to get to the last two manifold bolts.
any assistance on how to properly tackle these two bolts would be greatly appreciated.
edit.
AWD
Last edited by DJWolf; 03-14-19 at 05:00 PM.
03-14-19, 11:35 PM
#3
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Thread Starter
i was figuring it would be something a bit more extreme than the steering shaft. At least it is a solution as this is driving me nuts. I want to get back to focusing on my 460!
I will look up the motor mount procedure, but if that fails, would you know where/how many mounts there are?
Thanks!
I will look up the motor mount procedure, but if that fails, would you know where/how many mounts there are?
Thanks!
03-15-19, 08:39 PM
#5
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Thread Starter
That worked out. It was still quite a pain to get to them, but the additional room was all that was needed.
i am assuming the driveline is next to come down as it is blocking the header from coming out.
What size hex wrench is needed, and would you happen to know the torque specs on these bolts?
thanks again, I'll be glad when this is done!
i am assuming the driveline is next to come down as it is blocking the header from coming out.
What size hex wrench is needed, and would you happen to know the torque specs on these bolts?
thanks again, I'll be glad when this is done!
Last edited by DJWolf; 03-15-19 at 08:57 PM.
03-15-19, 10:08 PM
#6
Pole Position
That worked out. It was still quite a pain to get to them, but the additional room was all that was needed.
i am assuming the driveline is next to come down as it is blocking the header from coming out.
What size hex wrench is needed, and would you happen to know the torque specs on these bolts?
thanks again, I'll be glad when this is done!
i am assuming the driveline is next to come down as it is blocking the header from coming out.
What size hex wrench is needed, and would you happen to know the torque specs on these bolts?
thanks again, I'll be glad when this is done!
Not sure on the torque of front cardan I believe it's a 6mm. They are maybe 40nm they don't need to be super tight and u think they didn't want people to overtorque and break those bolts so they didn't use regular bolts these ones it's very easy to strip them out from the inside. Once you feel that the socket is starting to wanna spin in the bolt, stop. But I wouldn't touch that till you really have to. Unless the boots are torn
03-16-19, 11:59 AM
#7
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Thread Starter
Pulling from the top seems impossible. The space is tight and would probably need the valve cover to be pulled off :P. So underneath seems to be the best. That's how the pass side came down.
Thanks for the warning and torque specs, I figured I'd use an impact driver to avoid rounding out the hex heads. Did you happen to know what size they are? I tried everything I have was either a 1/4 or 3/8 and it was too big. If not, I'll just go buy a couple below this size.
thanks again.
Thanks for the warning and torque specs, I figured I'd use an impact driver to avoid rounding out the hex heads. Did you happen to know what size they are? I tried everything I have was either a 1/4 or 3/8 and it was too big. If not, I'll just go buy a couple below this size.
thanks again.
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03-16-19, 12:25 PM
#8
Pole Position
Pulling from the top seems impossible. The space is tight and would probably need the valve cover to be pulled off :P. So underneath seems to be the best. That's how the pass side came down.
Thanks for the warning and torque specs, I figured I'd use an impact driver to avoid rounding out the hex heads. Did you happen to know what size they are? I tried everything I have was either a 1/4 or 3/8 and it was too big. If not, I'll just go buy a couple below this size.
thanks again.
Thanks for the warning and torque specs, I figured I'd use an impact driver to avoid rounding out the hex heads. Did you happen to know what size they are? I tried everything I have was either a 1/4 or 3/8 and it was too big. If not, I'll just go buy a couple below this size.
thanks again.
Yeah top looks a bit packed now. To disconnect front driveshaft throw it in neutral put a hex key into one of the bolts and rest the key against the frame so it stops the shaft from spinning. Undo 6 bolts. Do just the transmission side first and hopefully you can clear I say this cuz the driveshaft is prolly rusted to the flanges so you gotta use a chisel and a mallet to break it free but that might not be possible with the subframe still on but maybe it's not rusted on
03-16-19, 12:40 PM
#10
Pole Position
i just used a really thin chisel thing that I sharpened with a grinder.
Maybe if you remove alternator and a few wires you can still pull it from the top, assuming you raise the engine. Beats pulling the driveshaft
Last edited by potatomon; 03-16-19 at 12:45 PM.
08-12-20, 12:12 PM
#11
Driver School Candidate
I know this is older post. But I removed my drivers side manifold without raising the engine or removing the driveshaft. Not sure why you guys removed so much. Some bolts were difficult to get to, but no impossible using the right tools, I took it out the bottom too. Maybe RWD is easier
03-01-21, 02:42 PM
#13
Driver School Candidate
Pulling from the top seems impossible. The space is tight and would probably need the valve cover to be pulled off :P. So underneath seems to be the best. That's how the pass side came down.
Thanks for the warning and torque specs, I figured I'd use an impact driver to avoid rounding out the hex heads. Did you happen to know what size they are? I tried everything I have was either a 1/4 or 3/8 and it was too big. If not, I'll just go buy a couple below this size.
thanks again.
Thanks for the warning and torque specs, I figured I'd use an impact driver to avoid rounding out the hex heads. Did you happen to know what size they are? I tried everything I have was either a 1/4 or 3/8 and it was too big. If not, I'll just go buy a couple below this size.
thanks again.
05-04-21, 02:33 PM
#15
Driver School Candidate
Update: I was able to get the exhaust manifold off. It's tight but does come out and having the proper tools to get things out of the way are essential. I had to take off the front drive shaft for the AWD coming from the transfer case. I kept the O2 sensor on and just kept angling and wiggling the manifold out. Take your time so you don't break anything else.
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