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I have a 2006 GS 300 and yesterday the car had a complete electrical lockup. It was very dangerous. I was driving at night and the power steering went out, the headlights went out and all the instrument panels starting flashing. I put the hazard lights on but even those would not work. Very bad situation. Glad no one got hurt.
+1 on alternator being culprit.
Other reason could be dead battery. If so, you should seen battery light in the dash way before other symptoms mentioned.
Reference: Experienced recently on my LS430.
Did you smell any electrical burning from the engine compartment? If so, the alternator is dead.
It turned out to be the alternator. Thank to everyone for responding. I used a trusted repair garage on my Lexus now since it is 12 years old. The guy told me the alternator is very hard to replace on this model. He charged me 5 hrs of labor. Came to $950. He said he had to take off the AC to get to it. Does that sound reasonable to all of you who have done this before?
Some didn’t have to remove the ac compressor. My engine was already out of the car when they replaced the front and rear seals so I saved a bit on labor.
If it’s AWD you need to move the compressor, not sure if fully remove it. When I changed my alternator a few weeks ago, it cost me $720 with a denso alternator. I know dealer charges at least $1200
The book says to remove the compressor, but there are some shortcuts...Shops may follow the book, they may not want to risk bending something or whatever.
Hey guys, I had the same problem and am having the alternator replaced.
The guy may have accidentally fried my ECU (by accidentally switching the contacts on the battery when he re installed it) which he will replace.
My question : could frying the ECU cause any other long term damage that I should know about. Thanks...
When they crossed the wires most likely the fusible link popped instead of the ecu. Fusible link is the main fuse that protects the car whole electronics from an electrical shock. Its located next to the battery super long fuse take some labor to remove.
Same thing I went through but today was the last draw. Just made it to my drive way and everything locked up. Tested the battery while the car was on and it was at 11 which is below normal. Ordering Gates belt and a remanufactured alternator with 1 year warranty. I smelled fear when the lights came on, not the burning electrical smell that everybody talks about. Got videos of it going crazy. Navigation blacked out, rolled up the windows and the gauges all blacked out until I released the window switch then lights came on. Battery was purchased last year. Cleaned MAF and throttle with the correct cleaners. Rolled my tensioner and idle pulley, they all rolled accordingly with no noise or hesitation. I’m at 113k.
Here’s my little update from the DIY section. It took me at most an hour to remove everything. Including that difficult but behind the alternator. My tip on that is to memorize the position of the nut because it will be difficult to squeeze your hand through or see. You will see a small ledge and feel that ledge back to the nut. That should give you an image that should guide you. No AC lines were removed. See pic.
Tools used: 10mm, 12mm, and 14mm sockets as well as extensions. A flat head. See pic.
Okay so good news my car's working I got it back. it was the fuse and now of course on my way home I realize the radio won't turn on. Any chance it's the fuse for the radio?
05-20-18, 07:27 AM
Complete electrical seizure of my GS300
