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The bolts are not stripped, I know better than that as I am an industrial technician, a millwright thankfully.
39 in lbs not ft lbs
I mean I was able to get a little more turn after recheck. Seems maybe the gasket setting in but was wondering if anyone had a similar experience.
When you have a thick gasket its not made to be crushed too much in that the gasket squeezes out of the sides. Putting blue loctite can help ease your mind in that the bolts will not back out. I would checked for leaks after a few thousand miles
I use a 3/8 ratchet holding it halfway on the handle of the ratchet to tighten the bolt. It is aluminum cast, will strip easy. I never use torque tool and til this day, no oil leaks, loose bolts.
Yes that’s how I did all of my tightening when I was much younger and couldn’t afford a torque wrench.
But I feel using the torque wrench is an engineered tool and “Should” be the best tool for the job.
Not sure why I’m able to get 1/2 more turn out of them before hitting the torque setting.
The correct way is a torque wrench, but I highly doubt dealerships techs are using torque wrenches for fluid pan bolts. Their more likely zapping them with light impact drivers. From the factory yes of course they would use automated torque wrench impacts.
The correct way is a torque wrench, but I highly doubt dealerships techs are using torque wrenches for fluid pan bolts. Their more likely zapping them with light impact drivers. From the factory yes of course they would use automated torque wrench impacts.
Yes sir I agree with you, they zap them very quick as time is money.
great great job man, very detailed and straight to the point , I have 2008 Lexus GS 350 with 110mi and I’m so confused that’s my first time doing drain n fill should I replace the transmission filter or you think it’s good and just do drain n fill and I should be okey ? FYI the car has never been done any transmission service , also the trans shift like dream I have no problem !!? Thanks for you time
Originally Posted by alchemist
Good evening,
I've just crossed 150k miles and like my other vehicles, felt it was time to change the filter.
Disclaimer: Attempt at your own risk. This is the method that I found most useful and efficient – yours may differ and may not be the exact as described herein. As with any do-it-yourself project, unfamiliarity with the tools and process can be dangerous. This project should be construed as theoretical advice. I will not be held responsible for any injury due to the misuse or misunderstanding of this DIY project.
remove drain bolt to drain fluid...I drained into an empty 5qt jug. Make sure to put back drain bolt before removing pan
quarts are the markings on left. Between 2-2.5 qts came out
There are 20, 10mm bolts on tranny
Used this to remove all bolts
pic of old filter. make sure to hold pan with one arm while removing bolts with the other. Remove pan while keeping it parallel to the ground as it has fluid in it. So dont tip over.
old filter. notice it is held on by 4 10mm bolts.
pan with old fluid in it
I drained into same container which held fluid I drained initially
another .25-0.3 qts came out so ~2.75 quarts total drained from pan
clean it up with a rag....it actually wasnt too bad.
Go ahead and removed old gasket. I sprayed the entire pan with brake cleaner. actually looks pretty good. Interestingly no magnets!
view after filter removed. Note when removing filter, remove all four bolts, pry downward, but more fluid will come out of opening on filter so keep over a waste pan or you will get dooshed with fluid!
this is the top side of old filter. notice O ring - good idea to replace while you're at it
old filter wasnt too bad either
I decided to open up the rest of old filter and inspect using dremel
again, not in bad shape
New filter......add new O-ring and re-install onto transmission.....just snug the 4 10mm bolts.
i cleaned the pan with lacquer thinner (or can use acetone or ethanol) where the gasket meets the pan
First of two of the most important steps in my opinion. Use either grey or black permatex and apply a thin layer directly to pan where gasket meets the pan
do not glob it on....not a bead.....thin layer only!
like this. This serves to seal all possible gaps (especially in corners which are problem areas for leaks) and hold gasket in place while remounting to transmission.
close up
end result. now I mounted pan (see below) and let sit for two hours and let Permatex sit up before adding any fluid.
2nd important step to avoid leaks. I mounted the pan and finger tightened all bolts first (no order). Then I torqued between 65-70 in/lbs in this order (image above - basically criss-crossing). NOT ft/lbs...in/lbs! This is basically 5.5 ft lbs.....but you will need to use a 1/4" drive torque wrench.
Lastly, you can follow instructions from old thread to add fluid and do the fluid check
***As a side note, remember ~2.75 quarts came out, I added 3.5 quarts quarts total and when I removed fluid check bolt on pan, a small trickle of fluid came out for a few seconds then I was done.
