DIY: Replace Headlight Ballast WITHOUT Taking Apart Headlight
10-15-14, 07:54 AM
#17
Can anyone confirm this method? I really dont want to remove the lens and Id rather not have to solder anything. I need to do something soon though. Riding around with one headlight is not cool.
04-20-15, 04:05 AM
#18
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Hey don’t know if you have corrected your problem yet but i just replaced my ballast on my GS this weekend. First part of all this is correct you have to take out the headlight but you do not have to take the headlight cover off to remove the ballast. All i had to do was remove the amber DRL and just maneuver the ballast out and slide the new one in along the same path. Way easier than having to take even more of the front end apart than necessary. If you have not replaced hope that helps.
04-20-15, 05:16 AM
#19
What I usually do when repairing something where something like a harness doesn't fit through some plastic opening is... cut the opening with a dremel or drill and make it a bit bigger. Usually there is no good reason for the access to be the way it is and enlarging it has no negative effects and just makes everything easier.
05-11-15, 10:54 PM
#21
I've done this now on my 3GS and a few GS's.
You simply pop apart the plug that connects to the bulb and remove the pins and wires. Pull the wires out and run the new ones in, then reassemble the plug.
Easy and no messing around.
AND - if you are upgrading to 55W, you can simply cut the old wire off because the one supplied with aftermarket ballasts can be installed with no problem since one side has small plugs that can be fed through.
You simply pop apart the plug that connects to the bulb and remove the pins and wires. Pull the wires out and run the new ones in, then reassemble the plug.
Easy and no messing around.
AND - if you are upgrading to 55W, you can simply cut the old wire off because the one supplied with aftermarket ballasts can be installed with no problem since one side has small plugs that can be fed through.
06-05-16, 06:33 PM
#23
Thank you fventura03, iXI187IXI , and Club Lexus!!!
I just replaced driver side ballast on my 2007 ES350.
I used the information in post #7 and #11, and indeed did it without having to solder anything or remove the lens. That 5-point bolt is the key for widening the gap a bit where the low beam goes in such that one can get the old igniter through for removal, and the new igniter in for installation.
In case it helps, and perhaps redundant, here is what I did:
1) removed bumper on driver side and a few bolts from passenger side in order to pull it down enough. I did not remove entire bumper as I was only working on driver side headlight assembly. Googled for instructions. There are plenty out there. Preferences may vary. It was pretty easy even for someone doing this for the first time, which would be me.
2) removed 2 bolts that held in headlight assembly, removed ground wire from ballast (needed torx #30 for this, kept other end of ground connected to car), detached fog light plug/clip-in, detached high beam plug/clip-in, detached 2 other plugs/clip-ins (one was relatively large and important looking, another was small with 3 prongs inside I think), pulled out directional light (7440A), pulled out parking light (small 168 bulb), I think that was it...assembly was free and I took it out.
3) removed ballast.
4) disconnected wire that plugs/clips into ballast. I'm talking about the wire that clips into the ballast. I plugged/clipped this wire into the new ballast when I installed the new one. The denso ballast that I bought from Amazon for $89 came with a similar wire, but, the the other end of the connection was not going to work for me, so I used the one that was in the assembly already.
5) loosened that 5-point bolt until enough space was created for me to pull the igniter head through to the same side as the computer/ballast.
6) pulled igniter through from new ballast and tightened the 5-point bolt. I did not keep track of exactly how much I had loosened that bolt. I tightened it until I felt it was tight enough.
7) I elected to replace all bulbs while I had it apart.
8) I put it all back together. Don't forget to reconnect the ground wire!!!!
Again, thank you Club Lexus!!! And, again, absolutely no need to remove lens and no need to solder at all.
I just replaced driver side ballast on my 2007 ES350.
I used the information in post #7 and #11, and indeed did it without having to solder anything or remove the lens. That 5-point bolt is the key for widening the gap a bit where the low beam goes in such that one can get the old igniter through for removal, and the new igniter in for installation.
In case it helps, and perhaps redundant, here is what I did:
1) removed bumper on driver side and a few bolts from passenger side in order to pull it down enough. I did not remove entire bumper as I was only working on driver side headlight assembly. Googled for instructions. There are plenty out there. Preferences may vary. It was pretty easy even for someone doing this for the first time, which would be me.
2) removed 2 bolts that held in headlight assembly, removed ground wire from ballast (needed torx #30 for this, kept other end of ground connected to car), detached fog light plug/clip-in, detached high beam plug/clip-in, detached 2 other plugs/clip-ins (one was relatively large and important looking, another was small with 3 prongs inside I think), pulled out directional light (7440A), pulled out parking light (small 168 bulb), I think that was it...assembly was free and I took it out.
3) removed ballast.
4) disconnected wire that plugs/clips into ballast. I'm talking about the wire that clips into the ballast. I plugged/clipped this wire into the new ballast when I installed the new one. The denso ballast that I bought from Amazon for $89 came with a similar wire, but, the the other end of the connection was not going to work for me, so I used the one that was in the assembly already.
5) loosened that 5-point bolt until enough space was created for me to pull the igniter head through to the same side as the computer/ballast.
6) pulled igniter through from new ballast and tightened the 5-point bolt. I did not keep track of exactly how much I had loosened that bolt. I tightened it until I felt it was tight enough.
7) I elected to replace all bulbs while I had it apart.
8) I put it all back together. Don't forget to reconnect the ground wire!!!!
Again, thank you Club Lexus!!! And, again, absolutely no need to remove lens and no need to solder at all.
The following 2 users liked this post by bdw:
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12-21-16, 01:45 AM
#24
Driver School Candidate
Is the Ballast the problem?
My left headlight also turns off but only when I turn sharp right at speeds above 25km/h (15mph). If I then turn the lights off and on again it turns back on untill the next right turn (right hand drive).
I don't understand what the Ballast does and was wondering why the turning off the lights (with the steering) triggered this problem and also only to the one side? The garage couldn't help me and cleaning the contacts had no effect.
I don't want to try replacing costly items if it isn't clear where the problem lies.
I don't understand what the Ballast does and was wondering why the turning off the lights (with the steering) triggered this problem and also only to the one side? The garage couldn't help me and cleaning the contacts had no effect.
I don't want to try replacing costly items if it isn't clear where the problem lies.
03-07-22, 09:15 AM
#26
Driver School Candidate
Replacing 2008 ES Ballast
I also was having random shut offs of my driver side headlight, turn off and back on and then it would randomly go off again at some point. Just completed this job on my 2008 ES and the below steps are extremely helpful however I wanted to add a few notes below in parenthesis...also here is the Youtube video I used to remove the bumper and in retrospect, I'm not sure the grill section had to be removed first?
I will acknowledge that the differences I pointed out about the bolts may have been because of the '08 versus '07
I will acknowledge that the differences I pointed out about the bolts may have been because of the '08 versus '07
Thank you fventura03, iXI187IXI , and Club Lexus!!!
I just replaced driver side ballast on my 2007 ES350.
I used the information in post #7 and #11, and indeed did it without having to solder anything or remove the lens. That 5-point bolt is the key for widening the gap a bit where the low beam goes in such that one can get the old igniter through for removal, and the new igniter in for installation.
In case it helps, and perhaps redundant, here is what I did:
1) removed bumper on driver side and a few bolts from passenger side in order to pull it down enough. I did not remove entire bumper as I was only working on driver side headlight assembly. Googled for instructions. There are plenty out there. Preferences may vary. It was pretty easy even for someone doing this for the first time, which would be me. (I also only removed the driver side of the bumper it it allowed me to pull it away from the chassis enough to remove the headlamp assembly)
2) removed 2 bolts that held in headlight assembly (I found 4 total bolts holding the assembly in place, 2 obvious ones on top, 1 hidden under the rubber liner that seals the hood when closed and one from under the area where the turn signal is, need to remove from below), removed ground wire from ballast (needed torx #30 for this, kept other end of ground connected to car), detached fog light plug/clip-in, detached high beam plug/clip-in, detached 2 other plugs/clip-ins (one was relatively large and important looking, another was small with 3 prongs inside I think), pulled out directional light (7440A), pulled out parking light (small 168 bulb), I think that was it...assembly was free and I took it out.
3) removed ballast.
4) disconnected wire that plugs/clips into ballast. I'm talking about the wire that clips into the ballast. I plugged/clipped this wire into the new ballast when I installed the new one. The denso ballast that I bought from Amazon for $89 came with a similar wire, but, the the other end of the connection was not going to work for me, so I used the one that was in the assembly already.
5) loosened that 5-point bolt until enough space was created for me to pull the igniter head through to the same side as the computer/ballast. (The 5 point bolt is what I believe is a levelling bolt, when you loosen this, it enabled the bulb chassis to move very slightly and you can push/force the igniter head through the small opening, there is a mark on the bolt take note of where it is and how many turns you make and attempt to return it to the same spot).
6) pulled igniter through from new ballast and tightened the 5-point bolt. I did not keep track of exactly how much I had loosened that bolt. I tightened it until I felt it was tight enough.
7) I elected to replace all bulbs while I had it apart.
8) I put it all back together. Don't forget to reconnect the ground wire!!!!
Again, thank you Club Lexus!!! And, again, absolutely no need to remove lens and no need to solder at all.
I just replaced driver side ballast on my 2007 ES350.
I used the information in post #7 and #11, and indeed did it without having to solder anything or remove the lens. That 5-point bolt is the key for widening the gap a bit where the low beam goes in such that one can get the old igniter through for removal, and the new igniter in for installation.
In case it helps, and perhaps redundant, here is what I did:
1) removed bumper on driver side and a few bolts from passenger side in order to pull it down enough. I did not remove entire bumper as I was only working on driver side headlight assembly. Googled for instructions. There are plenty out there. Preferences may vary. It was pretty easy even for someone doing this for the first time, which would be me. (I also only removed the driver side of the bumper it it allowed me to pull it away from the chassis enough to remove the headlamp assembly)
2) removed 2 bolts that held in headlight assembly (I found 4 total bolts holding the assembly in place, 2 obvious ones on top, 1 hidden under the rubber liner that seals the hood when closed and one from under the area where the turn signal is, need to remove from below), removed ground wire from ballast (needed torx #30 for this, kept other end of ground connected to car), detached fog light plug/clip-in, detached high beam plug/clip-in, detached 2 other plugs/clip-ins (one was relatively large and important looking, another was small with 3 prongs inside I think), pulled out directional light (7440A), pulled out parking light (small 168 bulb), I think that was it...assembly was free and I took it out.
3) removed ballast.
4) disconnected wire that plugs/clips into ballast. I'm talking about the wire that clips into the ballast. I plugged/clipped this wire into the new ballast when I installed the new one. The denso ballast that I bought from Amazon for $89 came with a similar wire, but, the the other end of the connection was not going to work for me, so I used the one that was in the assembly already.
5) loosened that 5-point bolt until enough space was created for me to pull the igniter head through to the same side as the computer/ballast. (The 5 point bolt is what I believe is a levelling bolt, when you loosen this, it enabled the bulb chassis to move very slightly and you can push/force the igniter head through the small opening, there is a mark on the bolt take note of where it is and how many turns you make and attempt to return it to the same spot).
6) pulled igniter through from new ballast and tightened the 5-point bolt. I did not keep track of exactly how much I had loosened that bolt. I tightened it until I felt it was tight enough.
7) I elected to replace all bulbs while I had it apart.
8) I put it all back together. Don't forget to reconnect the ground wire!!!!
Again, thank you Club Lexus!!! And, again, absolutely no need to remove lens and no need to solder at all.
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