DrexLex

Exactly. But the sound quality improvement is due to careful tuning of the tone control in the head unit in combination with the amp's internal bass EQ.

It's a 10", single unit, single voice coil of some higher than normal impedance.

I drove my car off the lot 10 years ago in June, and the woofer has been driven this way almost that whole time. But I don't abuse it, and it also stays out of the sun.

L's TLS

iTrader: (1)

EDIT: DrexLex answered your questions.

I'm interested in the quality of the ML subwoofer too. I have read about IS guys complaining about blown or deteriorated but haven't seen anything in the GS side yet and DrexLex says he's still running strong on this set up. However, if it does deteriorate, I'll just add an aftermarket since I've run everything need already (wires and amp).

I ordered a small JL audio amp to push this thing. Looking forward to cleaning up the bass in the car. I'll report back with results.

verly6565

does anyone no if the the non ml sub is the the same as the ml sub

DrexLex

^^ I think it is a dual voice coil unit, so it's different. The ML sub has a single voice coil.

verly6565

i wonder if i swap in a ml sub in my non ml..so i could put that amp in

DrexLex

The new amp can drive your sub. Just wire the two voice coils in series.

verly6565

Does anyone have the specs on the ml and non ml subwoofers
Rms ,ohms

DrexLex

The ML subwoofer is said to be 12 ohms.

All the amps in the standard system are standard bridge amps. To reach 134W total rated output from 7 amps implies the speakers are all ~4 ohms. The subwoofer would be 2 sets of 4 ohm voicecoils. It ought not be rated at less than 100W total.

Why do you ask, if I may ask?