ABS & Traction Control Kicking In Randomly
07-21-18, 01:35 PM
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ABS & Traction Control Kicking In Randomly
Hi all! Long time lurker, first time poster. I have a 98 GS300 that I did a bunch of front suspension work to last year and immediately got vcs/trac lights on the dash afterwards. I assume I nicked a wheel speed sensor. I attempted to repair it a couple months later, and perform a zero point calibration, but the lights kept coming back on.
Fast forward to this March - I had the wheel bearings and hubs done up front, and they tried to clear the codes. The car became undrivable after - abs would kick in randomly, and traction control kept cutting the throttle whenever I turned the wheel. To remedy this, I decided to pull the ABS and VCS relays. Lots of lights on the dash, but driveable. I've put thousands of miles on like this.
Today I finally bought a new wheel speed sensor and installed it. I put the relays back in, and the car ran and drove great, but the trac/abs lights were still on. So, I did a zero point calibration using a jumper in accordance with a write up I found on this forum. Unfortunately, while the lights are now gone, the car is pretty undrivable again, with trac cutting the throttle randomly and abs kicking in when I don't need it. Just took it to someone with a scanner, and we monitored the wheel speeds on all wheels - the front two wheels didn't read for a moment, but then all 4 wheel read correct speeds for the entirety of our drive. He theorized that I need an ABS actuator, since the wheel speed sensors look fine and there are no codes/lights.
I don't want to unnecessarily throw parts at this car - has this happened to anyone else? I've tried every code clearing/zero point calibration I could find, but the car still doesn't drive well. I just have trouble believing replacing the sensor I nicked wouldn't fix this all.
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Fast forward to this March - I had the wheel bearings and hubs done up front, and they tried to clear the codes. The car became undrivable after - abs would kick in randomly, and traction control kept cutting the throttle whenever I turned the wheel. To remedy this, I decided to pull the ABS and VCS relays. Lots of lights on the dash, but driveable. I've put thousands of miles on like this.
Today I finally bought a new wheel speed sensor and installed it. I put the relays back in, and the car ran and drove great, but the trac/abs lights were still on. So, I did a zero point calibration using a jumper in accordance with a write up I found on this forum. Unfortunately, while the lights are now gone, the car is pretty undrivable again, with trac cutting the throttle randomly and abs kicking in when I don't need it. Just took it to someone with a scanner, and we monitored the wheel speeds on all wheels - the front two wheels didn't read for a moment, but then all 4 wheel read correct speeds for the entirety of our drive. He theorized that I need an ABS actuator, since the wheel speed sensors look fine and there are no codes/lights.
I don't want to unnecessarily throw parts at this car - has this happened to anyone else? I've tried every code clearing/zero point calibration I could find, but the car still doesn't drive well. I just have trouble believing replacing the sensor I nicked wouldn't fix this all.
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
07-21-18, 02:26 PM
#2
I've been having it kick in on me as well, but not nearly as much as you seem to be having this issue. I have coilovers and I'm pretty sure it's because one front corner is too low. I need adjust them and go get an alignment.
1. Try getting an alignment and then do a zero point calibration.
2. Are you sure you're doing the zero point calibration correctly? I tried doing it with the paper clip and wasn't sure it went through. Paid the local Toyota dealer $100 bucks to do it after having to convince them their computer system could communicate with a Lexus (obviously not a great dealer to not know this). After that, I just bought techstream and an old laptop so I could do it myself whenever I wanted.
3. You said you drove the car and monitored the wheel speed. The VSC system monitors wheels speeds, the gryo sensor under the armrest, and the steering wheel angle sensor. If you hook it up and drive it again, check to make sure the system is seeing the steering angle properly. I think when I reviewed that on techstream, the steering angle doesn't show up until the car is going over 25 mpg or so. Below that the system doesn't take it into account.
1. Try getting an alignment and then do a zero point calibration.
2. Are you sure you're doing the zero point calibration correctly? I tried doing it with the paper clip and wasn't sure it went through. Paid the local Toyota dealer $100 bucks to do it after having to convince them their computer system could communicate with a Lexus (obviously not a great dealer to not know this). After that, I just bought techstream and an old laptop so I could do it myself whenever I wanted.
3. You said you drove the car and monitored the wheel speed. The VSC system monitors wheels speeds, the gryo sensor under the armrest, and the steering wheel angle sensor. If you hook it up and drive it again, check to make sure the system is seeing the steering angle properly. I think when I reviewed that on techstream, the steering angle doesn't show up until the car is going over 25 mpg or so. Below that the system doesn't take it into account.
07-21-18, 02:32 PM
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Interesting - thanks for the reply. I had the car aligned a couple months ago, but it was done poorly and the steering wheel isn't straight - so your comment about the steering angle makes sense. I'll try getting it aligned again and doing another zero point calibration, which may work better when the steering wheel pointing straight makes the front wheels point straight...
I assumed that if the lights were cleared, that meant the calibration was good - but that's obviously not the case.
I assumed that if the lights were cleared, that meant the calibration was good - but that's obviously not the case.
07-22-18, 11:21 AM
#4
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OP, you probably broke both your front ABS sensors.
Before you continue with all the fancy ZPC and pulling relays, you need to verify ALL wheel sensors by checking resistance at EACH one.
Resistance should be 1.6-1.7K Ohms
Many YT videos on this.
Good luck...
Before you continue with all the fancy ZPC and pulling relays, you need to verify ALL wheel sensors by checking resistance at EACH one.
Resistance should be 1.6-1.7K Ohms
Many YT videos on this.
Good luck...
07-22-18, 11:52 AM
#5
Another possibility is that one of your ABS reluctor rings are stripped. If they are stripped, the ABS sensor won't read the correct speed on that side which will result in speed differences (scan the ABS system to find out which side differs in speed). This will cause an ABS intervention.
07-24-18, 03:09 PM
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Well, I did test test each sensor's resistance as suggested and one side was 1.6 ohms, and the other was 1.59ohms. Seems good to me. However, while testing, I discovered that when I had my wheel bearings done, they didn't put the cap (inner hub cap?) back on the inside of the knuckle:
Obviously, that sensor was very dirty. I cleaned and lubed it all up, and am looking for a replacement cover once I can figure out what part number it is. Sensor stil tested fine after being cleaned.
I decided to put the relays for ABS and TC back in, which again cleared all the lights on my dash but made the car drive poorly. I then disconnected an abs sensor and started the car, then reconnected it. Now, I have the abs lights on the dash and the car drives fine, so that's an improvement. My next plan is to have it aligned by my local Lexus dealer, as they cost the same as my Indy mechanic. I'll also have them do a zero point for $60, which will hopefully fix it. I trust that if it doesn't work, they won't charge me, since I've had great experiences with them in the past.
Obviously, that sensor was very dirty. I cleaned and lubed it all up, and am looking for a replacement cover once I can figure out what part number it is. Sensor stil tested fine after being cleaned.
I decided to put the relays for ABS and TC back in, which again cleared all the lights on my dash but made the car drive poorly. I then disconnected an abs sensor and started the car, then reconnected it. Now, I have the abs lights on the dash and the car drives fine, so that's an improvement. My next plan is to have it aligned by my local Lexus dealer, as they cost the same as my Indy mechanic. I'll also have them do a zero point for $60, which will hopefully fix it. I trust that if it doesn't work, they won't charge me, since I've had great experiences with them in the past.
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07-26-18, 08:15 PM
#8
Driver School Candidate
I’ve had the same problem!!
my alternator has been giving out the last couple of days I’ve had to jump start it so far only once today, and most of the lights on my dash have lit up , it’s gotten to the point I put the car in drive and hardly drives forward , sounds like I’m driving on neutral or car being forced
07-26-18, 08:25 PM
#9
Driver School Candidate
Additional information
It’s 98 Gs400 178k miles
never had a problem I’ve been working on it for about a year now and this has been going on
im assuming power steer is leaking into my alternator but it’s an easy fix but why are my sensors acting up ?
i turn the car off and the dash lights turn off , even brake light sensor, I’ve checked all bulbs and they’re all working what can and should I do ?
07-28-18, 09:53 PM
#12
Driver School Candidate
I actually haven’t it started right up today with no struggle at all , spoke to a few people notice my battery was loose but I drove it around the block and as soon as I got back home it shut off, I turned it back unplugged the power (red) wire and the car was still running , basic logic it’s not my alternator lol
10-30-23, 11:37 AM
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Urgent please
Well, I did test test each sensor's resistance as suggested and one side was 1.6 ohms, and the other was 1.59ohms. Seems good to me. However, while testing, I discovered that when I had my wheel bearings done, they didn't put the cap (inner hub cap?) back on the inside of the knuckle:
Obviously, that sensor was very dirty. I cleaned and lubed it all up, and am looking for a replacement cover once I can figure out what part number it is. Sensor stil tested fine after being cleaned.
I decided to put the relays for ABS and TC back in, which again cleared all the lights on my dash but made the car drive poorly. I then disconnected an abs sensor and started the car, then reconnected it. Now, I have the abs lights on the dash and the car drives fine, so that's an improvement. My next plan is to have it aligned by my local Lexus dealer, as they cost the same as my Indy mechanic. I'll also have them do a zero point for $60, which will hopefully fix it. I trust that if it doesn't work, they won't charge me, since I've had great experiences with them in the past.
Obviously, that sensor was very dirty. I cleaned and lubed it all up, and am looking for a replacement cover once I can figure out what part number it is. Sensor stil tested fine after being cleaned.
I decided to put the relays for ABS and TC back in, which again cleared all the lights on my dash but made the car drive poorly. I then disconnected an abs sensor and started the car, then reconnected it. Now, I have the abs lights on the dash and the car drives fine, so that's an improvement. My next plan is to have it aligned by my local Lexus dealer, as they cost the same as my Indy mechanic. I'll also have them do a zero point for $60, which will hopefully fix it. I trust that if it doesn't work, they won't charge me, since I've had great experiences with them in the past.
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