silentdub

That make sense for sure but I didn't have a schematic to validate. Any pin out of the relay terminals? Any pin out for the pressure switch?

The compressor has 3 wires, 12V for the clutch and 2 other wires, i am not sure what those 2 wires do as most compressors only supply power for the clutch so I am wondering if the compressor has an internal switch of some sort.

Nad1370

3 wire on the AC connector
1 for Power - clutch engagement - looks like it will be the Light Blue w/ White tracer wire.
This should be the same wire going to the AC relay
Other 2 are for the lock sensor. - I wouldnt worry about this since your clutch isnt even engaging.

For the Pressure switch, i would just jump those terminals together to eliminate a bad pressure switch.
It's normally open, jumping it would close the circuit.

silentdub

We checked the climate control and there are no codes present.

silentdub

The switch has 4 terminals, when unplugged the fans come on. Which terminals should be jumped or should the 12V be jumped to all 3 other terminals?

silentdub

Ran codes again for the climate control.

13 21 and 24.

21 is BS. I'm in a dark garage but 13 is the evap temp sensor.

Time to order another part I guess.

24 isn't listed.... any ideas or is that a built in check code?

step2me

24 is low freon

step2me

hope thats the last part you have to buy that video helped me solve my issue also

silentdub

Hmmmm freon is 35psi, perfectly fine or do I maybe have a bad low pressure switch?

Is that integrated in the compressor because I don't see any other switch in the system.

The 13 is still an evap temp sensor though right?

FrankT

35psi? Is that with your compressor running? Low side?

Static pressure should be around 80psi

silentdub

Compressor running is 35-40 fluctuates a little. Static is around 80 on the low side.

High side is in the 2.5 x Ambient temp range. Don't get me wrong the system was empty when it came to me. We charged it, added oil charge and UV dye. No leaks, ice cold.

Wondering if the low pressure code is from the previous state. Should I disconnect the battery to reset it and run the codes again?

The one evap temp sensor is going to be the PITA as it is located on the coil behind the dash. May end up swapping the heater core while it is out.

silentdub

We disconnected the battery to reset the controls.

We still see the error code 13 and 24.

13 references a bad Evaporators Coil Temp Sensor which means the dash has to be pulled.
24 is the Pressure issue so after sitting over night we found the following:

Compressor Off:
Low Side is 60 PSI
High Side is 150 PSI

Compressor On: (12V jumped to clutch)
Low Side is 35 PSI
High Side is 200 PSI @ 74 degrees ambient temp

We charged the system to determine where the pressure is, we can't get the low side above 35/60 while the high side is well over 200 and with the compressor on as reached nearly 300+PSI with still 35 on the low side

At this point I believe the expansion valve or office tube is clogged or defective.

Considering the age of the vehicle, it makes sense.

Let me know if anyone has any other ideas but, looks like we found the last 2 problems.

Nad1370

When the AC compressor clutch is engage, 25-35 psi is the norm on the low side, give or take a couple.
High side should be around 200psi

You didnt mention if you ever tracked down if you have that ground signal to energize the AC relay.

silentdub

I have not checked for the ground signal as I do not have a pin out of the relay. I do not expect I have one since I have 2 codes for the evap temp sensor and 24 for low pressure.

I am not sure if those codes are erroneous or not but with them present I would not expect the negative trigger to be present.

I have 12V at the relay so the only thing that could be missing is the negative trigger. I can check again, do you know which pin would be the negative?

I am getting a high side pressure that exceeds 300psi at this point also. This is leading me to believe that there is a blockage and possibly a bad valve.

At the age of the components, this does not surprise me.

Would you expect the negative trigger given the code 13 and 24 are present?

Nad1370

24 is a Solar code - i wouldnt worry on this.
13 as you said is a evap temp sensor circuit.
Open or short detected.

This in my mind wont hinder your AC compresor operation since your AC light turns ON and stays ON when activated.
Plus, its just some thermistor that sends temp of the evaporator to the AC controller.
But im no expert. Lol

i hate guessing but i’m going towards a bad AC controller.

Sorry i dint have a schematic.
My try a shop that can access All Data to pull up your wiring diagram.

silentdub

21 is the solar sensor. 24 is a pressure code. 13 is for the evap coil sensor. A friend has all data so I'll get it tonight from him.

I'll check for the negative trigger later today.

21 the solar sensor goes away when outside si the two remaining codes are the 13 and 24.

Pressure on the high side is still rather high however.