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Rear axle removal

 
Old 03-14-19, 08:58 PM
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manifesto
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Default Rear axle removal

Hi. Do i have to disconnect rear hub to remove left axle, or just unscrew those 6 bolts from diff and 1 main from hub. Then somehow slide axle down ?

Last edited by manifesto; 03-15-19 at 10:36 AM.
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Old 03-15-19, 05:14 AM
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sbagdon
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Originally Posted by manifesto View Post
Hi. Do i have to disconnect rear hub to removal left axle, or just unscrew those 6 bolts from diff and 1 main from hub. Then somehow slide axle down ?
Why are you removing the left drive shaft?

Sorry, hub has to be disconnected from the suspension, to get the clearance to pull the shaft from the hub.

FSM says:
  • remove rear wheel
  • remove suspension brace (2 bolts)
  • remove cotter pin, lock cap, and lock nut
  • remove drive shaft
    • place matchmarks on adjusting cam and lower suspension arm (want to maintain alignment, later)
    • disconnect No. 2 lower suspension arm from axle hub, bolt/nut (see step above, about alignment)
    • disconnect No. 1 lower suspension arm from axle hub, bolt/nut (see step above, about alignment)
    • place matchmarks on drive shaft and side gear shaft (6 bolts, for balance, should go back as it came out)
    • hold brake pedal (or parking brake?), remove (6) hexagon bolts, and washers
    • secure inboard joint of shaft, to make sure it doesn't flex too much, and toss it's bearings (been there, done that)
    • use brass hammer to tap out end of drive shaft, from hub
    • do not damage boots, end-cover, speed sensor rotor, or oil seal of axle hub

Installation is reverse of removal. Always try to put anything removed back where it came from (when multiple bolts, put bolts back where you found them; if it rotates, use matchmarks).

Torque specs (installation, reverse order of removal):
* Inboard joint shaft hex bolts: 61 ft/lb
* No. 1 suspension arm: 55 ft/lb
* No. 2 suspension arm: 81 ft/lb
* Outboard lock nut: 213 ft/lb
* Suspension brace: 37 ft/lb
* Wheel lug nut: 76 ft/lb

Have fun.
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Old 03-15-19, 05:42 AM
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TrueGS300
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You don't want to try to remove it without at least moving the knuckle out some. Don't have to remove it completely, nor the brakes I don't think. Usually I just remove the upper or lower ball joint (whichever looks like it will give the most room) from the knuckle and pull out enough to slip the axles end out.
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Old 03-17-19, 02:13 AM
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manifesto
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Thanks all for answers. I will remove upper ball joint and maybe another left arm and try to remove the axle . The reason why I do this, is tracking for vibration I have . I almost done everything . New Tires balanced (hunter), New rack and pinion ( tensioner also adjusted) , Swaped like 3 different driveshaft. I still feel vibration coming from rear of the car ( I guess) floor and seat. The most of them appears above 50mphs. Last week I just jack the rear up, put on jackstands and start the car. Accelerate to around 50 and above and whatched what vibrates. Driveshaft looks fine, right axle also, But left resonate alittle. I dont know is it normal or not but i have to try swap it Sorry for weak english, its not my native.

Last edited by manifesto; 03-17-19 at 03:00 AM.
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