Front driver site window regulator repair
 

This post is not seeking help but want to help others in case needed, after I got helped in this forum. Google and Youtube don’t give me enough info for this title.

My front door glass window cannot go up then stuck at the middle, but motor still moves.Tools you need: Philips screw driver #2, small flat head screw driver, plastic pray bar, 10mm socket wrench, sticky tape.
Disassembly: 1) Remove all Philips screws of the panel. The bottom has five; under handle box clip is the #6 – using flat head screw driver or pray to snap it out;,#7 can be see in the rubber bowl; #8 is at the upper inside of the storage or umbrella box, which might only be there for Gen2.
2) Pull the door from edge, then bottom to pull out about 25degree – there are a few clips inside but not strong. Lift a bit from upper left or handle side, then you might need to push its upper right or hinge side to handle side a little bit to release the door.
3) Remove two steel ropes and two wire harnesses. The steel ropes control door open/close, remove each from its U-shape snap from left side up, then remove steel ball from edge ball opening – I mean you move the outer ball towards inside and inter ball to outside, as the ball openings are at the sides. If you just pull tem up you will DAMAGE the plastics. Two wire harness have clips at the middle of their plug, press it down hard, for the big white door button harness, turn the door 90degree and use small flat screw driver would help you, the clip is kind of awkward. Remove the door
4) All bolts need to be removed are 10mm hex now. First blocks you from remove the moisture-proof sheet. Remove all 10mm bolts – not Philips crews – that hold speaker and disconnect two wire harnesses to remove speaker. Speaker plug clips are at the side, and its top bolt are blocked by the largest wire bunch, so you need to remove the two bolts of controller box to move the box aside.Now you could see from the openings two bolts that hold glass to motor lifter, which is on a horizontal line. You might plug the big control harness back – half way to get connected but not clip on – to move the lifter up/down, then you can remove the two bolts, then remove or lift up the glass, use tape to hang the glass so it won’t drop off.
5) Disconnect the white Motor wire harness which has a rubber cover goes inside the panel. Clip is at the its side, yet the plug is all most surround by the box cover which can misguide you which part is the plug body. Disconnect the plug, pull out the rubber cover then insert the cover and the harness into the hole. Remove six 10mm bolts of the motor regulator while hold the frame incase it drop down, get it out.
6) You can replace window regulator now. But I found mine seems ok, although the bottom slide can wobble outer/inter, looks like the nylon holes are enlarged, but I am not sure whether it is designed in purpose. My glass is out of its clamps due to glue fail. I did bought windows regulator but cannot wait for its delivery because of the raining season. The glue looks like black rubber and I removed most of them from glass and left a little as position marks. I then add JB-weld and put glass back. I measured the hole distance from frame to be 18-inch.

In fact, I might just remove glass and two holder pieces not the motor lifter, and refill epoxy or glue not remove old layer.

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.clu...6a8ac622c1.jpg
Assembly:Reverse above steps. You need to put in motor lifter first, refer to step 4 for lifter up/down when needed. To insert the motor harness I didn’t use fish wire but my arm. Before I put Philips screws on I found the open door knob cannot stay to open, what I did is sit inside the car, close door and repeat the knob a few times.