sbagdon

ABS is throwing codes 33 (left-rear sensor) and 34 (right-rear sensor). Pulled both rears, it was an art-project of tiny metal fingers. Cleaned them, re-installed, cleared codes, still didn't work, new codes. Pull again, cleaned, cleared codes, still didn't work, new codes. Ordered a used right-rear sensor from eBay, removed, cleaned, installed different sensor, cleared codes, still didn't work, new codes.

Am I not cleaning them well enough? Or is cleaning and/or a used sensor useless, and I have to drop the $ for each rear sensor...?!

Just want the speedo back...! After cleaning the sensor, and clearing the codes, the speedo will work, for about... 1/2-mile. More then glad to live without ABS, to get the speedo back, while sorting out the ABS issues.

Clear codes, then pull the ABS fuse (which one?)... will that disable ABS, yet keep the speedo working?

Here's the hilarity of the situation... local parts store has sensors for sale... $59.99/LF, $179.99/RF, $189.99/RR, $225.99/LR... and they all appear to be the same sensor, just that they have different brackets and wire-colors. Is it doable, to buy the LF sensor/wire, disassemble, then re-use the RR bracket/holders?

Thanks!

Bempa

Do you know how to use a digital multi meter? You should measure the ohm-value of the sensors to check if they are OK or not as Step 1
Step 2 would be to check corrosion/dirt at ABS ring on the driveshaft.
Step 3 would be to make a continuity check of the wires between ABS computer and rear sensors.

I do believe that the computer is using the ABS sensor to read the speed of the car so to get back the speedometer you need to get the ABS to work again

sbagdon

Yea, I think I can figure out how to use a multi-meter...

Following the FSM's directions, the multi-meter measured the correct ohm (between the leads), on the used replacement unit. Ground was questionable (measuring from ground to lead), yet didn't test on the car. There's a way to measure that each passing of the hub's spline is registered on the sensor, that that involves tapping in to the harness while the car is moving, or making the tire roll while testing from the harness, while using an oscilloscope... just don't currently have access to one...

It's just odd that it's both rear sensors, at the same time.

Tackling the circuit from one end to the other, yet struggling that there's no known-good, yet. Will fix that today.

TrueGS300

Have you done any repairs on the car before this? I had a guy that did his own brakes/rotors come in because he couldn't figure out why his ABS light was on after the job. He put rotors on without toner rings on his truck (where they obviously where needed). Same for vehicles with cv axles with the toner rings on them. People will go on Rock Auto and buy the cheapest parts that will fit the car. This usually is the ones without things like toner rings. Just making sure you haven't replaced your axles or anything and are now chasing a ghost.

sbagdon

No, there is no known direct correlation to another repair, such as a brake job. Quite a while back, the ABS light went on, and it was ABS code 31 (front-left). Paid full-retail for a new sensor ($180...?!), it went away and the speedo was fine, then last year, the speedo went out, and ABS codes 33 and 34 came up... and no speedo.

Interestingly, another datum point. Hit the salvage yard today, by coincidence, and pulled parts from an '04 GS300. The front ABS sensors appeared oem/factory, and the rears appeared replaced with aftermarket (pulled all 4, to collect data). Both fronts came out clean, and both rears came out with the tiny-cluster of little metal fingers... rather artistic, yet frustrating.

Wondering if the rear hubs/spline and sensor is a weak spot on the 2nd-gen GS...

Just want the speedo back!

Nad1370

Did you have your speedo working before you had these codes?
Do you have any other codes like a P0500 in the Engine ECM side?

AmyUD06

iTrader: (1)

For what its worth, I've got some bad ABS sensors too and my speedometer works just fine. 2003 GS300. I don't think your problems are related.

sbagdon

No new codes, if anything, we've gotten rid of some codes, since purchasing the car. Yet no codes came or went, when this happened.

If I reset the ABS computer (pull pin, jumper, on-don't-start, pump brake 8 times in 5 seconds, off pull jumper, insert pin), the ABS light will go out, and the speedo will work for about 1/2-mile, then the light will come back on.

Oddly, the cruise still works.

Nad1370

If you have access to a scanner that can pull up your data list.
Check if it reads actual vehicle speed there.
If it reads speed there and your speedo is not working, we can narrow that down the issue.

sbagdon

Thought of that today, yet didn't have time. Have to find the ODB-II reader, and will test that. Seem to remember that we tested this specifically in the past (does ODB-II show speed?), and that it wasn't showing speed.

Will set up some tests, before/during/after an ABS cpu reset, to see the state of ODB-II values.

Recap: cruise always works, speedo and odo don't (yet do, after an ABS reset, for 1/2-mile).

sbagdon

Time for an update, in regards to lights and codes:

Status: Currently, ODB-II does know the speed of the car, verified with iOS app Engine Link... and the cruise control works. Even the instant/avg fuel-economy shows properly, from ODB-II. Speedo and odo/trip do not work.

Previously: did the timing belt, and all engine codes are cleared now, so that should now be out of the equation. See other thread... intake/exhaust cams were off 2 teeth clockwise, so sounds like we was running 15deg of retard, which set off a lot of codes related to the OCV, presuming the cam sensor was not happy. So CEL should now not be part of any discussion.

Today: cleared the ABS codes, drove down the street with the speedo working, could hear/feel the ABS stuttering level-1, at the stop sign ABS stuttering level-2, then ABS/VSV/VSV-off lights all went on when the car was stopped, and no speedo on the drive back. Back to the driveway, code check showed VSV 43 (ABS issue) and ABS 33 (right-rear sensor). So at least the ABS 34 (left-rear sensor) code is gone... the cleaning must have helped.

Tomorrow: have a spare RR sensor from a '98 GS4 and '04 GS3 (google/parts-store say they are the same part), so going to pull the sensor, clean the crap out of the hub, then go through all (3) RR sensors (1 on the car, and 2 spare), and see if we can get rid of the ABS code 33.

Updates to come.

MW6006

Any update to this?

sbagdon

Not recently... finished the timing belt, that cleared all codes. Did the starter, that let the car run.

This was next. Probably the next step is replacing the ABS actuator, as that seems to be a common problem. Dropping $400 on a pair of rear ABS sensors is not on my list of things to do...

Yet will update when I get back to this.

engin_ear

iTrader: (1)

OK - here is your problem. I just had this problem so I'm very familiar with it and did all the work myself. It's a true PITA. The GS actually DOES have a particular problem with this. There are other threads on this topic as well.

Your ABS reluctor rings are worn down to the point where you're not getting a good read from the sensors. The metal shavings you pulled out with the ABS sensors are actually your chewed-up ABS reluctor rings (tone rings). No replacement of any other parts will fix the problem, you will just waste money.

There are 3 ways to fix it. You need new reluctor rings. The reluctor rings are pressed onto the rear CV axles. They are a biotch to get off, it's not a trivial replacement.
The methods I don't recommend:
a) Remove your CV axles and attempt to remove/replace the rings. You would need to order new rings, and use a torch on the rings and cool off the axles to be able to get them on. They need to be on straight, and without ruining them. NOT recommended. The following methods are actually easier.
b) Replace the entire CV axle (L&R) with new aftermarket one. This effectively gives you a new tone ring. However, the aftermarket replacements suck. I just ordered a pair that I wound up not using because there was too much play in them compared to the OEM ones.

The method I DO recommend:
c) Replace both CV axles with remanufactured ones from NAPA. There are rebuilt by Cardone and are exact replacements, excellent quality.

Now, for the actual cause of the problem:
The tone ring has a metal "dust deflector" (Toyota's term) ring surrounding it. This ring of metal is pressed into the hub knuckle. The problem is that over the years, water has gotten in there and a layer of rust has formed UNDER this ring, and has decreased the circumference of the ring, to the point where there isn't enough room for the tone ring inside it anymore, so the tone ring wears down as this rust forms.
You need to order new dust deflector rings and remove the old. You may need to pry, then cut the rings off, that's what I did. Then grind down the rust in the hub knuckle cavity, until it's back to the original metal size. Install the new dust deflector rings and then install the new CV axles having the new reluctor rings.
At that point, your ABS errors will go away, you will no longer have the problem of it kicking in at low speed, and you'll be back in business.

IF YOU ARE NOT comfortable with the level of expertise needed to do this procedure, please have a qualified mechanic do it.

Cost for parts:
(2) rear CV axles - about $75 each, plus refundable core charge;
(2) dust deflector rings (I used Febest, good quality): $10 each

Reply here if you need more help.

engin_ear

iTrader: (1)

Also NOTE that the front ABS will never have this problem. The reluctor rings are not exposed, they are in a closed cavity that does not get water infiltration. It's only the rears that will experience this.