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Is this a hard job to do on a GS300?
I brought a set with two gaskets & I'm thinking the small bolt gaskets
I see what looks like oil leaking up top & down onto the splash guard
Thanks Everyone
Its not a bad job but you will need some Toyota FIPG to put in the corners where the gasket meets the front cam covers. About a 2 hour job max. If you havent already I would also do the plugs while you are in there......and be careful with the coil pack connectors.
I don’t remember it being too hard. I agree with the spark plug replacement at the same time. I would also clean the throttle body and the screen for the vvti at the same time.
Ok Boys & Girls,I did a lil bit of shopping on eBay & here's what I got:
3 pack ignition coil set
NGK plug wires x 3
Denso K16TR11 plugs x 6
Oil control valve filter
Throttle body mounting gasket
Lexus FIPG sealer
Ignition coil connectors x 4 so 1 extra
PCV valve (getting grommet at auto parts store)
Valve cover set (do I need valve seals?)
Trans filter kit (for a later job)
If there is anything else I may need please do not hesitate to advise me
I want to get this job done completely & correct in one shot if possible
Again thanks a bunch for all comments,I really appreciate it
Just be extra careful with the coil pack harness, not just the connectors but the full length of harness from the vvti solenoid on to the coil packs.
Since you are working with the valve cover seal you will need to move them quite a bit.
The wiring inside gets brittle from heat treatment over the years, as soon as they get folded (or even sneezed on) they will crack open.
This happens quite often and not many people realizes it.
I had do deal with a P1300 diagnostic on the first day of Chinese New year holiday. Tried everything I could think of, swapped igniter, coil pack, spark plug and plug wires, OCV valve and took apart the ecu, before cutting the harness open and findingthe cause. I was lucky that the parts were all loaned to me for testing purposes.
Also, if you swap the coil pack connector, make sure the wiring position is the same on all 3 connectors.
The black with red stripe is the same B+ signal. Keep it all on top or bottom of the clip, doesn't really matter which as long as they are all at the top or bottom of the clip.
You actually don't have to move the coil pack harness to goes across both valve covers much at all if you remove the 4 studs that keep the valve covers in place. Use E5 torx socket to remove the 4 studs (2 per valve cover) after taking the nut off. Then you could simple slide the cover off instead of lifting the covers over the studs.
.....and do what about the sealant thats placed on the cam cover corners?
There is enough clearance for you to put the cover back on with the sealant placed on the cam cover corners without lifting the wire harness an additional 2-3 inches. I know lots of people remove the covers without removing the studs, I am just offering what I think is an easier option if you don't have extra hands to help maneuver the covers back on while yanking on the wire harness like I see lots of Youtube videos do. Personally, I think it's a lot easier to do the valve cover replacement with the studs removed since I don't have to lift the wire harness too much to get the covers off and on. I did mine just last week along with spark plugs, etc.
Alignment with the studs is sort of crucial for proper vc placement. Plus why risk not have the new gaskets seal properly? Plus I like to remove the wires so that they can be inspected and repaired if needed. I am nor saying your way is bad.....but the risk of not having the job done right the first time and having to do it again because the gaskets did not seal properly or the placement of the fipg ended up where it did not need to be is just silly.
Take the time....inspect the wires and all clips and save yourself future issues!
To each his own, I guess. You can easily align the vc without using the stud, there are plenty of holes you could use to align the vc before dropping it down. Not sure why there would be more risk of the gasket not sealing properly when it goes down the same way whether you use the studs to guide your placement or not. I am not suggesting you slide the vc with the gasket making contact with the cylinder block the whole way. Without the studs in the way, you have plenty of clearance to move the vc into place without making contact with the cylinder block before dropping it down.
To be honest, I have not tried putting it on with the studs so I can't say with certainty that it is easier. However, I have tried lift the vc off over studs and it was a struggle trying to not break the already brittle plastic of the wire harness. Then I found out you could remove the studs and it was a breeze to take the vc off once the studs were removed.
Once the grommets are removed from the studs the covers come off rather easily!
Wait, grommets? I didn't see any grommets when taking the covers off and the gasket kit I bought doesn't come with any grommets.
Now, I am worried. Where do the grommets go on the cover? I noticed now that the OP's picture has 8 rings per gasket, are those the grommets you are talking about?
01-03-18, 12:17 PM
Valve Cover Gasket Repair
