Doors unlock twice after installing new actuators; remote does not disarm alarm
12-04-17, 09:01 PM
#1
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Doors unlock twice after installing new actuators; remote does not disarm alarm
Hey guys,
I bought my first Lexus 2004 GS300 a month ago and I'm new to posting to the CL forums. The CL forums have been so helpful providing so much information on DIY fixes; I've been able to replace all 4 door actuators and repair 4 broken actuator lock cables. I'm now running into a somewhat strange problem with my locks and I've been searching all over CL and other forums for fixes with no luck; apologies if someone already posted the fix to my problem.
So I replaced all 4 door lock actuators with brand new ones that I bought off ebay. I repaired 4 broken actuator cables using the paperclip method; the locks are a bit sticky when manually locking but the fix has been working good. The problem is when I unlock the doors using the power lock or remote; when this is done the car unlocks the doors twice. It first unlocks all the doors and then about a second later, it unlocks again. Not a huge issue because my remote/power locks still work but I'd like to find a fix for it if possible.
The second issue is more alarming (pun not intended). I lock and arm the alarm with the key fob, but when I unlock the doors using the key fob again, the alarm sounds. Basically if I set the alarm with the remote, I'm unable to disarm it with the remote or manual key unlock. I have to start the car to turn off the alarm which is quite annoying. The key fob seems to be working fine as the LEDs are functional; I did notice that unlocking the doors with the remote does not turn on the interior dome light. The manual key does not turn on the interior dome light either when I unlock it with the key. I'm assuming it has something to do with the first issue of the actuator always unlocking twice when pressed. When I had the old actuators installed, I remember unlocking via key fob did turn on the interior dome light; now it never does.
Does anyone have any idea or suggestions to what may be causing this problem? I did dig through the forums as much as i could but didn't find anyone with the exact same problem. Those who did have alarm and actuator problems were told to either unhook their battery and wait, or reprogram their key fob. Is that something that may work? Is there something I need to do after I install a new set of door lock actuators?
Appreciate any help.
I bought my first Lexus 2004 GS300 a month ago and I'm new to posting to the CL forums. The CL forums have been so helpful providing so much information on DIY fixes; I've been able to replace all 4 door actuators and repair 4 broken actuator lock cables. I'm now running into a somewhat strange problem with my locks and I've been searching all over CL and other forums for fixes with no luck; apologies if someone already posted the fix to my problem.
So I replaced all 4 door lock actuators with brand new ones that I bought off ebay. I repaired 4 broken actuator cables using the paperclip method; the locks are a bit sticky when manually locking but the fix has been working good. The problem is when I unlock the doors using the power lock or remote; when this is done the car unlocks the doors twice. It first unlocks all the doors and then about a second later, it unlocks again. Not a huge issue because my remote/power locks still work but I'd like to find a fix for it if possible.
The second issue is more alarming (pun not intended). I lock and arm the alarm with the key fob, but when I unlock the doors using the key fob again, the alarm sounds. Basically if I set the alarm with the remote, I'm unable to disarm it with the remote or manual key unlock. I have to start the car to turn off the alarm which is quite annoying. The key fob seems to be working fine as the LEDs are functional; I did notice that unlocking the doors with the remote does not turn on the interior dome light. The manual key does not turn on the interior dome light either when I unlock it with the key. I'm assuming it has something to do with the first issue of the actuator always unlocking twice when pressed. When I had the old actuators installed, I remember unlocking via key fob did turn on the interior dome light; now it never does.
Does anyone have any idea or suggestions to what may be causing this problem? I did dig through the forums as much as i could but didn't find anyone with the exact same problem. Those who did have alarm and actuator problems were told to either unhook their battery and wait, or reprogram their key fob. Is that something that may work? Is there something I need to do after I install a new set of door lock actuators?
Appreciate any help.
Last edited by nehinbin; 12-07-17 at 04:15 PM.
12-06-17, 03:28 PM
#2
It sounds like the system is thinking that you haven't unlocked / disarmed yet. Does the alarm come on straight after you press the unlock button or when you actually open the door after disarming?
Are the solenoids oem? The door lock modules might be measuring current through the solenoids and not getting correct value.
Double check you have wired everything properly.
If it comes down to it, you may have to remove what you have installed and then reinstall one at a time then check its working properly before installing the next set of solenoids or wires.
Also do you have access to a scantool? See if there are any logged codes for the body systems.
Are the solenoids oem? The door lock modules might be measuring current through the solenoids and not getting correct value.
Double check you have wired everything properly.
If it comes down to it, you may have to remove what you have installed and then reinstall one at a time then check its working properly before installing the next set of solenoids or wires.
Also do you have access to a scantool? See if there are any logged codes for the body systems.
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nehinbin (12-07-17)
12-06-17, 05:47 PM
#3
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
It sounds like the system is thinking that you haven't unlocked / disarmed yet. Does the alarm come on straight after you press the unlock button or when you actually open the door after disarming?
Are the solenoids oem? The door lock modules might be measuring current through the solenoids and not getting correct value.
Double check you have wired everything properly.
If it comes down to it, you may have to remove what you have installed and then reinstall one at a time then check its working properly before installing the next set of solenoids or wires.
Also do you have access to a scantool? See if there are any logged codes for the body systems.
Are the solenoids oem? The door lock modules might be measuring current through the solenoids and not getting correct value.
Double check you have wired everything properly.
If it comes down to it, you may have to remove what you have installed and then reinstall one at a time then check its working properly before installing the next set of solenoids or wires.
Also do you have access to a scantool? See if there are any logged codes for the body systems.
What are are the solenoids that you are referring to? Apologies I’m a bit new but I believe they are oem as all I did was replace the old actuators and repair the locking cable with paper clips. I don’t have a scan tool, is there an inexpensive one on Amazon that you recommend?
Appreciate the help.
12-07-17, 05:39 AM
#4
To clarify; did the locks/actuators come out toyota part numbered bags or who made them?
Yes, grab a mini VCI and look for software version 8.1. Install on Win7-Win10 32 or 64bit. There are detailed instructions that work as I did it on Win7 / 64...
cost is is $25 total. Well unless you don't have a laptop.
Yes, grab a mini VCI and look for software version 8.1. Install on Win7-Win10 32 or 64bit. There are detailed instructions that work as I did it on Win7 / 64...
cost is is $25 total. Well unless you don't have a laptop.
Last edited by 2013FSport; 12-07-17 at 05:43 AM.
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nehinbin (12-07-17)
12-07-17, 09:33 AM
#5
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
To clarify; did the locks/actuators come out toyota part numbered bags or who made them?
Yes, grab a mini VCI and look for software version 8.1. Install on Win7-Win10 32 or 64bit. There are detailed instructions that work as I did it on Win7 / 64...
cost is is $25 total. Well unless you don't have a laptop.
Yes, grab a mini VCI and look for software version 8.1. Install on Win7-Win10 32 or 64bit. There are detailed instructions that work as I did it on Win7 / 64...
cost is is $25 total. Well unless you don't have a laptop.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Set-of-4-Pi...72.m2749.l2649
12-07-17, 10:15 AM
#6
You verify pin/conductor count of replacement hardware? Are these the 4 or 6 pin modules?
$40 for a set of 4 seems a bit sketchy when rockauto parts sre $150 ea and oem yoda are 225 ea. I think you need to do a deep dive and prove exactly which functions actually work. Do any of your old modules work?
$40 for a set of 4 seems a bit sketchy when rockauto parts sre $150 ea and oem yoda are 225 ea. I think you need to do a deep dive and prove exactly which functions actually work. Do any of your old modules work?
12-07-17, 11:06 AM
#7
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
You verify pin/conductor count of replacement hardware? Are these the 4 or 6 pin modules?
$40 for a set of 4 seems a bit sketchy when rockauto parts sre $150 ea and oem yoda are 225 ea. I think you need to do a deep dive and prove exactly which functions actually work. Do any of your old modules work?
$40 for a set of 4 seems a bit sketchy when rockauto parts sre $150 ea and oem yoda are 225 ea. I think you need to do a deep dive and prove exactly which functions actually work. Do any of your old modules work?
lol I completely agree with the $40 being sketch; I'll take apart my door panels again this weekend and test the connections with a voltmeter and try the old modules to see if there's any changes.
Thanks for your help.
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12-07-17, 11:27 AM
#8
I just went through exactly the same thing in my 2000 about 2 months ago. I ordered the cheap actuators front and rear, and installed all of them. I had a host of issues with them afterwards. I discovered two things that made life more difficult than it needed to be- 1) not disconnecting the battery before starting disassembly may cause issues. (rookie mistake, but I figured I might be able to avoid resetting radio & such), and 2) cheap parts are never the best bet ( i was in denial).
I ended up getting a set of used but known working actuators/ latch assemblies off a wrecked GS, and replacing everything....again.
All of the doors have been working since. The moral of the story is that in my experience, you can replace just the actuator, but as there are other electrical components that are extremely sensitive, so it is worth it to replace the entire assemblies if at all possible, and with O.E. Parts.
I ended up getting a set of used but known working actuators/ latch assemblies off a wrecked GS, and replacing everything....again.
All of the doors have been working since. The moral of the story is that in my experience, you can replace just the actuator, but as there are other electrical components that are extremely sensitive, so it is worth it to replace the entire assemblies if at all possible, and with O.E. Parts.
12-07-17, 11:39 AM
#9
Yeah solenoids = actuators. Also try resetting your ecu modules by removing the negative battery cable for a minute and then press on the brake pedal, then re-install the cable. After this do the keyless entry programming for your key fob.
If you still have issues after doing those things, then I would say the actuators are not compatible with the Lexus modules.
If you still have issues after doing those things, then I would say the actuators are not compatible with the Lexus modules.
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nehinbin (12-07-17)
12-07-17, 04:12 PM
#10
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Yeah solenoids = actuators. Also try resetting your ecu modules by removing the negative battery cable for a minute and then press on the brake pedal, then re-install the cable. After this do the keyless entry programming for your key fob.
If you still have issues after doing those things, then I would say the actuators are not compatible with the Lexus modules.
If you still have issues after doing those things, then I would say the actuators are not compatible with the Lexus modules.
Thanks guys.
12-07-17, 04:14 PM
#11
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
I just went through exactly the same thing in my 2000 about 2 months ago. I ordered the cheap actuators front and rear, and installed all of them. I had a host of issues with them afterwards. I discovered two things that made life more difficult than it needed to be- 1) not disconnecting the battery before starting disassembly may cause issues. (rookie mistake, but I figured I might be able to avoid resetting radio & such), and 2) cheap parts are never the best bet ( i was in denial).
I ended up getting a set of used but known working actuators/ latch assemblies off a wrecked GS, and replacing everything....again.
All of the doors have been working since. The moral of the story is that in my experience, you can replace just the actuator, but as there are other electrical components that are extremely sensitive, so it is worth it to replace the entire assemblies if at all possible, and with O.E. Parts.
I ended up getting a set of used but known working actuators/ latch assemblies off a wrecked GS, and replacing everything....again.
All of the doors have been working since. The moral of the story is that in my experience, you can replace just the actuator, but as there are other electrical components that are extremely sensitive, so it is worth it to replace the entire assemblies if at all possible, and with O.E. Parts.
12-10-17, 06:56 AM
#12
12-10-17, 12:50 PM
#13
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
So resetting the ECU modules by removing the battery and pressing the brake pedal didn't work. Both original actuators on my drivers side were bad so I'm forced to stick with the sketchy aftermarket ones for those doors. I replaced the front passenger side with a working OEM actuator and what do you know, the key fob disarms the alarm! No more annoying alarm goes off when I unlock and open my doors. The double unlock thing is still present but that really is just a minor issue, I'm just relieved I can now open my doors without my alarm going off every time. I suspect the cheap aftermarket parts to be the culprit of the double unlock problem.
The lesson learned here is to never buy cheap, sketchy aftermarket parts lol. I believe that the double unlock problem is going to go away if I replace the aftermarkets with working OEM actuators. OEM parts are just incredibly more expensive online; how much did you guys pay to get OEM actuators and locking mechanisms from a junkyard? My cables are working OK with the paperclip fix but if the cables are cheap at a junkyard I might just replace them.
The lesson learned here is to never buy cheap, sketchy aftermarket parts lol. I believe that the double unlock problem is going to go away if I replace the aftermarkets with working OEM actuators. OEM parts are just incredibly more expensive online; how much did you guys pay to get OEM actuators and locking mechanisms from a junkyard? My cables are working OK with the paperclip fix but if the cables are cheap at a junkyard I might just replace them.
12-10-17, 03:15 PM
#14
So resetting the ECU modules by removing the battery and pressing the brake pedal didn't work. Both original actuators on my drivers side were bad so I'm forced to stick with the sketchy aftermarket ones for those doors. I replaced the front passenger side with a working OEM actuator and what do you know, the key fob disarms the alarm! No more annoying alarm goes off when I unlock and open my doors. The double unlock thing is still present but that really is just a minor issue, I'm just relieved I can now open my doors without my alarm going off every time. I suspect the cheap aftermarket parts to be the culprit of the double unlock problem.
The lesson learned here is to never buy cheap, sketchy aftermarket parts lol. I believe that the double unlock problem is going to go away if I replace the aftermarkets with working OEM actuators. OEM parts are just incredibly more expensive online; how much did you guys pay to get OEM actuators and locking mechanisms from a junkyard? My cables are working OK with the paperclip fix but if the cables are cheap at a junkyard I might just replace them.
The lesson learned here is to never buy cheap, sketchy aftermarket parts lol. I believe that the double unlock problem is going to go away if I replace the aftermarkets with working OEM actuators. OEM parts are just incredibly more expensive online; how much did you guys pay to get OEM actuators and locking mechanisms from a junkyard? My cables are working OK with the paperclip fix but if the cables are cheap at a junkyard I might just replace them.
12-11-17, 10:08 PM
#15
Were you the one that contacted me on youtube?
Double unlock is usually caused by sensors detecting a failed lock procedure.
I suspect those actuators are not making a connection when they are locking or unlocking when they should.
Also some actuators come with reverse polarity on the motor. Watch closely and see if the locks are snapping the right direction when pressing lock or unlock.
Double unlock is usually caused by sensors detecting a failed lock procedure.
I suspect those actuators are not making a connection when they are locking or unlocking when they should.
Also some actuators come with reverse polarity on the motor. Watch closely and see if the locks are snapping the right direction when pressing lock or unlock.