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I lucked out & found a guy on Craigslist with a totalled gs. I think I paid $60 for all 4 actuators with latches and cables, as well as the brand new urethane sway bar bushings that I found in the passenger side of his car.
What a steal!
Originally Posted by TW99GS300
Were you the one that contacted me on youtube?
Double unlock is usually caused by sensors detecting a failed lock procedure.
I suspect those actuators are not making a connection when they are locking or unlocking when they should.
Also some actuators come with reverse polarity on the motor. Watch closely and see if the locks are snapping the right direction when pressing lock or unlock.
Luxious Automotive? Yeah that was me who asked the same question on YoutTube; thanks for your videos they've been extremely useful for my 04 GS300 repairs.
I think I know which door is causing the double unlock (rear driver). I'll have to take a look at it this weekend.
Do you happen to have a video for the rear sub removal? The sub was rattling when I got the car so I popped off the speaker grill to find that the foam was ripped; I'll probably order a foam repair kit. I saw a picture guide on CL and a video of someone doing it on a LS430 but I think it's different than the GS300.
To give you guys an update, my drivers actuator (aftermarket part) stopped working yesterday lol. The actuator itself was stuck and could no longer move the locking mechanism; took it out and the white latch did not move no matter how much forced I used. I ended up opening both OEM and aftermarket actuators (which was extremely difficult) and swapping their motors since the OEM one was dead. So now I'm using the OEM actuator with the aftermarket motor; I probably should have glued the sides back so hopefully those 2 screws can be enough to hold the sides together. Put everything back and what do you know, it all works (except for the double unlock which I suspect is the rear driver side). It even beeps when I press unlock once (before it would only beep when I pressed unlock twice to unlock all doors). So after going through this whole experience, it is CONFIRMED that those cheap aftermarket parts were the cause to my alarm going off problem. Thankfully I was able to find some use out of those parts so they weren't a complete waste of money. The motors are good so I'll probably swap out all the non-working OEM motors with the aftermarket ones; it's just difficult AF to open up those actuators. Front drivers actuators. OEM on left, cheap sketchy eBay on right.
I'll post another update when I replace all the motors. Thanks for everyone's help.
Polarity could be a factor but suspect its more complicated. Think design fail. Which would include a polarity issues.
FWIW this era of yoda door locks has many failures across multiple product lines. Anyone notice if the cooler temperatures allowed them to work on occasion?
Polarity could be a factor but suspect its more complicated. Think design fail. Which would include a polarity issues.
FWIW this era of yoda door locks has many failures across multiple product lines. Anyone notice if the cooler temperatures allowed them to work on occasion?
Yep. Since I've owned it, mine generally cooperated in cooler temperatures, but in SC, that hasn't happened alot until about 3 weeks ago lol.
Originally Posted by nehinbin
The sub was rattling when I got the car so I popped off the speaker grill to find that the foam was ripped; I'll probably order a foam repair kit. I saw a picture guide on CL and a video of someone doing it on a LS430 but I think it's different than the GS300.
If you have the Nakimichi system in yours, I have a good sub that I took out of mine that you are welcome to for the cost of shipping.
If you have the Nakimichi system in yours, I have a good sub that I took out of mine that you are welcome to for the cost of shipping.
You are far too kind; unfortunately I have the Mark Levinson system so I don't know if your sub will work. I've read that the stock ML can be stubborn when replacing blown speakers with any other speaker that isn't ML. Thanks for your kind offer.
Not sure the impedance on ML base but matching is critical. Some base speakers (and others) run down to 2 ohms but that doesn't tell you everything. The inductance of the speakers coil and watts (power dissipation) matters too.
You are far too kind; unfortunately I have the Mark Levinson system so I don't know if your sub will work. I've read that the stock ML can be stubborn when replacing blown speakers with any other speaker that isn't ML. Thanks for your kind offer.
Np, its just collecting dust in a closet. And you're absolutely right- the impedance is different at least. I want to say the Nak sub has a strange ohmage like 5 or 10, but I don't recall the exact number.
Opened up my rear drivers side panel today; the aftermarket actuator crapped out like the front drivers side and I could no longer lock/unlock the door. Cracked open both OEM and aftermarket actuators to swap the motors only to discover that the rear OEM gears are different than the front OEM one. Didn't have a gear puller and tried pulling that gear off with a wire stripper tool but had no luck. I ended up swapping the entire motor with the gear set and placed it in the OEM actuator.
Aftermarket rear drivers actuator that caused so many problems Opened up. OEM of left, aftermarket on right (Aftermarket on left, OEM on right) The rear OEM actuators use a different gear than the front OEM ones. You'll need a gear puller if you are trying to switch out a dead motor. Trying to pull this thing off without a gear puller and failing.
Tested it, put everything back together, plugged in the battery, IT FREAKING WORKS. No more double unlock problem
So happy to finally get this problem fixed. Learned my lesson on buying cheap parts, never again. Next up I got to fix the rear sub and seat warmer LED light.
The left side has metal clips on it to send signal that the car is either in lock or unlock position. The right side doesn't have those, that's why you are having issues with the aftermarket actuators. Next time just buy mabuchi motors and call it a day.
The left side has metal clips on it to send signal that the car is either in lock or unlock position. The right side doesn't have those, that's why you are having issues with the aftermarket actuators. Next time just buy mabuchi motors and call it a day.
I wish I knew this way earlier!!!! Will do for the future, thanks.
The previous owner of my car replaced the rear door actuator with an aftermarket unit and mine does the same thing. It will unlock all the doors again after I've pressed the unlock button on the remote twice, or unlocked all using the switch on the door. Doesn't bother me. It does not do the other thing you were talking about with the alarm sounding though. Rather than replace with aftermarket units, just rebuild the current units by replacing the motors that go back. I did it on two of the doors on my GS, and all of the doors on the RX. Relatively easy if you follow the DIY.
The previous owner of my car replaced the rear door actuator with an aftermarket unit and mine does the same thing. It will unlock all the doors again after I've pressed the unlock button on the remote twice, or unlocked all using the switch on the door. Doesn't bother me. It does not do the other thing you were talking about with the alarm sounding though. Rather than replace with aftermarket units, just rebuild the current units by replacing the motors that go back. I did it on two of the doors on my GS, and all of the doors on the RX. Relatively easy if you follow the DIY.
I would be concerned. Everytime the locks double pulse it's one extra cycle it would have out of the life span of your actuators. Not just one, but all of them.
Opened up my rear drivers side panel today; the aftermarket actuator crapped out like the front drivers side and I could no longer lock/unlock the door. Cracked open both OEM and aftermarket actuators to swap the motors only to discover that the rear OEM gears are different than the front OEM one. Didn't have a gear puller and tried pulling that gear off with a wire stripper tool but had no luck. I ended up swapping the entire motor with the gear set and placed it in the OEM actuator.
Aftermarket rear drivers actuator that caused so many problems Opened up. OEM of left, aftermarket on right (Aftermarket on left, OEM on right) The rear OEM actuators use a different gear than the front OEM ones. You'll need a gear puller if you are trying to switch out a dead motor. Trying to pull this thing off without a gear puller and failing.
Tested it, put everything back together, plugged in the battery, IT FREAKING WORKS. No more double unlock problem
So happy to finally get this problem fixed. Learned my lesson on buying cheap parts, never again. Next up I got to fix the rear sub and seat warmer LED light.
Thanks for everyone's input.
So, you sort of inspired me to open my now-extra actuators to get the motors out. I got one open pretty quick because if the outside was trashed, it didn't matter, but I'm wondering if you had any advice towards getting one without destroying the outside cover? A razor seems to take FOR EVER, and my dremel cut too much out of the side.
So, you sort of inspired me to open my now-extra actuators to get the motors out. I got one open pretty quick because if the outside was trashed, it didn't matter, but I'm wondering if you had any advice towards getting one without destroying the outside cover? A razor seems to take FOR EVER, and my dremel cut too much out of the side.
Use a box cutter and slowly go around all the sides; it does require some patience and strength. Start in different areas where the blade easily goes through like the bottom or the top corners and go around little by little. You can insert and use a pry tool to make the process easier while going around with the box cutter but just be careful not to pry too hard and ruin the outside cover. Let me know how it goes, GOODLUCK!
12-13-17, 06:12 PM
