Car stuck in Park and shift ECU swap made things even worse
#1
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Car stuck in Park and shift ECU swap made things even worse
Hi All,
99 GS300.
I left it sitting for 5 months and went overseas. After returning I found dead battery, charged it, but couldn't get the car out of Park or into R unless using manual shift lock button. Pain in the ***, obviously.
So I checked all the fuses in the the foot-well and next to battery-all are fine.
Today, went to a junk yard and got the entire shift assembly with shift ECU included, (it looks like silver radiator with white connector), took the ECU unit out of junkyard's shift assembly and swapped it into my assembly. I didn't see why I should swap the entire assemblies in one peace as everything inside beside the ECU unit is purely mechanical parts- plastic and springs.
So after the swap things got even worse: The car doesn't switch to D and L but switches into all other gears, but D and L are just bypassed. Car drives in 4th now.
And I can't take the key out of the ignition. I need to disconnect the battery to do that.
So where did I screw up? By not disconnecting the battery prior starting the removal of the original assembly?
Or the junkyard's ECU needs to be reprogrammed after being swapped into my assembly?
Please help! Thank you all in advance.
99 GS300.
I left it sitting for 5 months and went overseas. After returning I found dead battery, charged it, but couldn't get the car out of Park or into R unless using manual shift lock button. Pain in the ***, obviously.
So I checked all the fuses in the the foot-well and next to battery-all are fine.
Today, went to a junk yard and got the entire shift assembly with shift ECU included, (it looks like silver radiator with white connector), took the ECU unit out of junkyard's shift assembly and swapped it into my assembly. I didn't see why I should swap the entire assemblies in one peace as everything inside beside the ECU unit is purely mechanical parts- plastic and springs.
So after the swap things got even worse: The car doesn't switch to D and L but switches into all other gears, but D and L are just bypassed. Car drives in 4th now.
And I can't take the key out of the ignition. I need to disconnect the battery to do that.
So where did I screw up? By not disconnecting the battery prior starting the removal of the original assembly?
Or the junkyard's ECU needs to be reprogrammed after being swapped into my assembly?
Please help! Thank you all in advance.
#4
The shift console ecu is linked to break switch. If battery power is poor it may not work properly. you should hear clicks from the shift control ecu any time the brake pedal is depressed.
Also a replacement from junkyard would not be my first choice for replacement on this part.
Lastly, check and verify the rod connecting from transmission is installed properly. there's a rectangle cut out on the transmission link that needs to seat all the way inside the shift console.
Also a replacement from junkyard would not be my first choice for replacement on this part.
Lastly, check and verify the rod connecting from transmission is installed properly. there's a rectangle cut out on the transmission link that needs to seat all the way inside the shift console.
#5
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Thanks,
I think I'm having what user Takashi posted a few years back and his issue was the shifter ECU which he swapped successfully and seems like with no reprogramming.
So an update of what happened.
I swapped the junkyards ECU into original assembly- and the car doesn't lock in Park or Reverse anymore, but won't go into Drive or L modes, and can't get the key out of ignition.
I put the original ECU back in and its the same behaviour!!!- Doesn't got into Drive or L, but key is removable.
Decided to take it to dealer to reprogram. Haven't gone yet but yesterday decided to do one last thing prior. Decided if the dealer reprograms then let it be with junkyards ECU as it doesn't lock in Park or R. So swap the junkyard ECU into original shift assembly and now it's a different behaviour: key no longer locks in ignition and is removable, shifter doesn't lock in P or R, and the card goes in D and L but no longer to 4 and 2.
I think I'm having what user Takashi posted a few years back and his issue was the shifter ECU which he swapped successfully and seems like with no reprogramming.
So an update of what happened.
I swapped the junkyards ECU into original assembly- and the car doesn't lock in Park or Reverse anymore, but won't go into Drive or L modes, and can't get the key out of ignition.
I put the original ECU back in and its the same behaviour!!!- Doesn't got into Drive or L, but key is removable.
Decided to take it to dealer to reprogram. Haven't gone yet but yesterday decided to do one last thing prior. Decided if the dealer reprograms then let it be with junkyards ECU as it doesn't lock in Park or R. So swap the junkyard ECU into original shift assembly and now it's a different behaviour: key no longer locks in ignition and is removable, shifter doesn't lock in P or R, and the card goes in D and L but no longer to 4 and 2.
#6
Lexus Test Driver
After returning I found dead battery, charged it, but couldn't get the car out of Park or into R unless using manual shift lock button.
#7
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Thanks
It's the dealer now, apparently no mechanic at the dealershipt wants to touch it except for some 20 -year veteran tech who's super busy but may get to my car today.
May be you are right about the battery but it's starts fine, does it really need replacing?
Also, I think it makes sense to leave the junkyard's ECU in the car as at least it doesn't cause the gear to lock switching from Park or into Reverse.
Look at Takashi thread he had exact identical issue.
It's the dealer now, apparently no mechanic at the dealershipt wants to touch it except for some 20 -year veteran tech who's super busy but may get to my car today.
May be you are right about the battery but it's starts fine, does it really need replacing?
Also, I think it makes sense to leave the junkyard's ECU in the car as at least it doesn't cause the gear to lock switching from Park or into Reverse.
Look at Takashi thread he had exact identical issue.
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#8
Lexus Test Driver
Good, if the car starts the battery may be ok. Just thinking 5 months is a long time without a charge.
At any rate, I'm sure the dealer will figure it out from here. In the future you always want to buy new when it comes to things like the ECU...it's too much of a chance to buy used. Then you know for sure if that is indeed the issue.
Keep us posted.
At any rate, I'm sure the dealer will figure it out from here. In the future you always want to buy new when it comes to things like the ECU...it's too much of a chance to buy used. Then you know for sure if that is indeed the issue.
Keep us posted.
#9
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So I am having a similar issue. Bought a 99 gs300. Had to replace the alt fuse due to the seller popping it during an alternator swap. So I now have power thru out the car, but when I turn the key nothing. Motor doesn’t attempt to turn over. I jumped the starter relay and the motor turns over. The other issue is the shifter only moves out of park when I use the shifter lock bypass. I also notice that the shift indicator does not show up on the dash.
#10
Lexus Test Driver
So I now have power thru out the car, but when I turn the key nothing
#11
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I’ll check the battery. You are the fourth person to recommend it. I’ll run with that. Didn’t mean to hi-jack the OP thread, just kinda seemed like we were having a similar issue. Thanks guys
#12
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
So the 20 -year veteran guru mechanic at Lexus spent 1 hour ($140) looking at it just to tell me the obvious: He thinks the problem is with the shifter of the ECU ( like that wasn't obvious) and he needs another hour disassemble the shifter. I said **** it, won't put money into it anymore, and refused, will go get the car.
So, don't know what to do, there's no solution.
So, don't know what to do, there's no solution.
#13
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Ok, problem solved.
So dealer calls me and says the tech ran the computer scan and tested circuits and nothing wrong so the thinks its either the shifter ECU or the Shifter itself. So I'm disappointed as I already knew those are the culprit but hoped he spent my 150$ more productively. He asks for another hour. I said "'No I'm taking the car"
Word after word me and the tech keep talking about it and I mention the junkyards assembly in my trunk. He says lets go take a look at it.
He looks at the original ECU and noticed that it there's small lever on the side of the ECU that goes up and down and next to it the plastic part with hole in it. He speculates the lever has to plugged in the hole. So I open the shifter box and guess what, just like he said. He clips it back on and everything works.
I can't believe I missed that bit assembling and disassembling the shift assembly like 6 times. I guess I grew too impatient and kept overlooking this part while wasting time after time trying to figure out how everything moves inside the box, what an idiot I am!
So dealer calls me and says the tech ran the computer scan and tested circuits and nothing wrong so the thinks its either the shifter ECU or the Shifter itself. So I'm disappointed as I already knew those are the culprit but hoped he spent my 150$ more productively. He asks for another hour. I said "'No I'm taking the car"
Word after word me and the tech keep talking about it and I mention the junkyards assembly in my trunk. He says lets go take a look at it.
He looks at the original ECU and noticed that it there's small lever on the side of the ECU that goes up and down and next to it the plastic part with hole in it. He speculates the lever has to plugged in the hole. So I open the shifter box and guess what, just like he said. He clips it back on and everything works.
I can't believe I missed that bit assembling and disassembling the shift assembly like 6 times. I guess I grew too impatient and kept overlooking this part while wasting time after time trying to figure out how everything moves inside the box, what an idiot I am!
#14
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Ok, problem solved.
So dealer calls me and says the tech ran the computer scan and tested circuits and nothing wrong so the thinks its either the shifter ECU or the Shifter itself. So I'm disappointed as I already knew those are the culprit but hoped he spent my 150$ more productively. He asks for another hour. I said "'No I'm taking the car"
Word after word me and the tech keep talking about it and I mention the junkyards assembly in my trunk. He says lets go take a look at it.
He looks at the original ECU and noticed that it there's small lever on the side of the ECU that goes up and down and next to it the plastic part with hole in it. He speculates the lever has to plugged in the hole. So I open the shifter box and guess what, just like he said. He clips it back on and everything works.
I can't believe I missed that bit assembling and disassembling the shift assembly like 6 times. I guess I grew too impatient and kept overlooking this part while wasting time after time trying to figure out how everything moves inside the box, what an idiot I am!
So dealer calls me and says the tech ran the computer scan and tested circuits and nothing wrong so the thinks its either the shifter ECU or the Shifter itself. So I'm disappointed as I already knew those are the culprit but hoped he spent my 150$ more productively. He asks for another hour. I said "'No I'm taking the car"
Word after word me and the tech keep talking about it and I mention the junkyards assembly in my trunk. He says lets go take a look at it.
He looks at the original ECU and noticed that it there's small lever on the side of the ECU that goes up and down and next to it the plastic part with hole in it. He speculates the lever has to plugged in the hole. So I open the shifter box and guess what, just like he said. He clips it back on and everything works.
I can't believe I missed that bit assembling and disassembling the shift assembly like 6 times. I guess I grew too impatient and kept overlooking this part while wasting time after time trying to figure out how everything moves inside the box, what an idiot I am!
#15
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I would start with your battery and go from there...do your lights come on, and are they bright? Next, check the connection at the terminals...sometimes if those are not tight that can cause an issue. If you can get it started take it to Autozone or another shop and have them test the alternator and see if it's charging properly.