akafixture

I bleed my brake fluid to replace the old stuff and once I was done I did some hard stops to make sure everything was ok. Now when I go over bumps my steering wheel with shake some, clock wise counter clock wise. It appears to happen more when the bump is on the drivers side, less on the passenger side. I have searched and allot say LCA are shot, but I have replaced those 1 year ago. No play or clunks in the steering when I turn the wheel. I think it might be my Megan Coilover EZ are shot. I have them at 19 (out of 22 total stiffness on the front) and they have about 60K on them. I can push on the front of my car fairly easily and it does move more than what I would expect. The rear are at 16 and I cant move it. Will a blown shock cause the back and forth on the steering wheel. Searching again said it could be the problem.

In the last year I have replaced.
Lower ball joints
outer tie rods
steering rack bushings.
Lower Control arms (new)
sway bar bushings

It was only after some hard stops that it started to happen.

Thanks for any assistance (or search here idiot). lol

Fixture

akafixture

No I did hard stops on a flat street. Now when hit a bump or ruff part in the road the steering wheel goes back and forth. Steering feels tight other wise, with no sounds or other symptoms.

fperron

You need to take the car to a shop and have the front suspension examined for loose components. Something - like a coilover mounting, for example - might have been marginal and was further loosened by the hard braking. BTW, there is no reason to go through a hard braking routine after changing brake fluid. The only reason to do repeated hard brake applications would be if you were bedding new pads on your rotors.

akafixture

Just an update, I have started to have a slight rattle (more of a rubber and metal rattle) on the drivers side over even smooth roads. so I went through and re-torqued everything to spec, drivers and passengers. The only thing that I noticed a little strange is that the drivers outer tie-rod was fairly easy to turn front and back, like a throttle on on motorcycle and each time I did it till it stopped I could hear a slight clank of metal. The passenger side was much harder to turn front and back. So it might just need another alignment. Or do you think that tie-rod is bad? Should I replace it before another alignment?

Thoughts?

Jonathan
aka fixture

fperron

As I said above, you need to have the front end checked for worn or loose components. Then have the alignment checked/redone.

akafixture

Gotcha fperron.

twsti321

Check the front sway bar see if it loose, it happened to my car.

sbagdon

Did you use OEM parts? One might have already worn. When I replaced lower ball joins (in general, using OEM Lexus/Toyota parts), what comes off can be rotated easily, and what's going on needs tools or leverage to move. I suspect you shouldn't be able to move that part that easily. Yet yes... validate nothing broken, replace parts, then align.