GS300 Rear end damage ...walk away or fix and drive (PIC HEAVY...56k, no way)
#19
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Location: Toronto
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You guys got it so good down south.... ahhh to drive nice cars and skateboard year round......
The guys from the southern states are saying to walk/run away while the northern states guys are saying just patch it up and enjoy until it dies. I imagine there's some older members from the north that experience real winter and salt, who have probably seen their fair share or driven rusted out vehicles patched up with holes in the body.
Also, no I don't plan on selling it an unsuspecting buyer down the road, I have morals. I got a good job, I don't need to be a dirtbag ripping people off for $950 lol
Luckily the rust is all in the rear passenger side due to where the quarter panel was replaced and not sealed properly. Also I imagine the cars body panels were treated for anti-corrosion when being built, while the replacement panels might not have received the same treatment.
This is how I see it
Pros:
- $950 USD
- Heated leather seats for this winter
- All options work on the car
- 118,000KMs/73300mi original engine, timing belt/waterpump done at 109,000Kms. Just passed emissions with no issues
- Hell of a lot more comfortable than my 2000 Protege with manual windows/ locks, crappy seats
- Fun car to learn, practice and do little DIY projects with and I don't have to fret over every little ding/ scratch
- Worst possible situation if the car dies over the next yr or two, walk away and lose a relatively small amount of $ or part it out and make my $950 back
Cons:
- Lots of rust around trunk/wheel well
(Not properly repaired with metal but the rust is now minimized/stopped & the rear end's a lot more solid, no holes, it's sealed from the outside environment, I don't have to worry about the rear end breaking apart/ corroding)
- Have to spend ~$750-1000USD to fix rust and some other minor issues
(Not a big issue, even if I have to spend a little more when the car was only $950usd)
- Bigger gas tank and premium gas
(Price you gotta pay to drive a nicer car, I can deal with that)
I finished patching up the body (I wont say fix lol) and have everything back together now. Instead of using POR15 rust proof, I just ended up buying rubberized rocker guard/ undercoating since it was a hell of a lot cheaper and I don't need to do a pro job. I figure with the rubberized coating, fiberglass patched holes and reinforced body panels/wheel wells, the body should be alright for a bit.
Sorry Mods for zapping so much bandwidth posting pics for some opinions. Feel free to point me in the direction of a paid membership or site donation, it's well worth it already for the wealth of info on these forums.
The guys from the southern states are saying to walk/run away while the northern states guys are saying just patch it up and enjoy until it dies. I imagine there's some older members from the north that experience real winter and salt, who have probably seen their fair share or driven rusted out vehicles patched up with holes in the body.
Also, no I don't plan on selling it an unsuspecting buyer down the road, I have morals. I got a good job, I don't need to be a dirtbag ripping people off for $950 lol
Luckily the rust is all in the rear passenger side due to where the quarter panel was replaced and not sealed properly. Also I imagine the cars body panels were treated for anti-corrosion when being built, while the replacement panels might not have received the same treatment.
This is how I see it
Pros:
- $950 USD
- Heated leather seats for this winter
- All options work on the car
- 118,000KMs/73300mi original engine, timing belt/waterpump done at 109,000Kms. Just passed emissions with no issues
- Hell of a lot more comfortable than my 2000 Protege with manual windows/ locks, crappy seats
- Fun car to learn, practice and do little DIY projects with and I don't have to fret over every little ding/ scratch
- Worst possible situation if the car dies over the next yr or two, walk away and lose a relatively small amount of $ or part it out and make my $950 back
Cons:
- Lots of rust around trunk/wheel well
(Not properly repaired with metal but the rust is now minimized/stopped & the rear end's a lot more solid, no holes, it's sealed from the outside environment, I don't have to worry about the rear end breaking apart/ corroding)
- Have to spend ~$750-1000USD to fix rust and some other minor issues
(Not a big issue, even if I have to spend a little more when the car was only $950usd)
- Bigger gas tank and premium gas
(Price you gotta pay to drive a nicer car, I can deal with that)
I finished patching up the body (I wont say fix lol) and have everything back together now. Instead of using POR15 rust proof, I just ended up buying rubberized rocker guard/ undercoating since it was a hell of a lot cheaper and I don't need to do a pro job. I figure with the rubberized coating, fiberglass patched holes and reinforced body panels/wheel wells, the body should be alright for a bit.
Sorry Mods for zapping so much bandwidth posting pics for some opinions. Feel free to point me in the direction of a paid membership or site donation, it's well worth it already for the wealth of info on these forums.
#22
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Hawaii
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You're up north in canada... Thats not a bad car dor DD in all conditions as long as it runs well...
Given the amount of cancer and your intended plans for it use it as a learning tool.
Congrats on the deal? (relative term) and enjoy it.
Given the amount of cancer and your intended plans for it use it as a learning tool.
Congrats on the deal? (relative term) and enjoy it.
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