Aristo722

Going to be opening up and attempting an LS430 retro here with my old halogen toyota headlamps.
Did a lot of research but still need some reassurance. Ive read that some people pre heat the oven to 275F for a bit, then pop the headlights in for about 7 or so mins. Is that for all general headlamps or would ours be a bit different?

Basically what I am asking is whats a good time and temp to open and then seal these headlamps back up.

I also plan on using new sealant. Going to use some of this:
http://www.theretrofitsource.com/acc...l#.ViG7APmrTcs

Ive had a lot of good luck with TRS, this stuff looks really easy, just slip it on and heat it up again in the oven, then let it cool...simple enough.

Any other useful tips? I've never heated up a headlight before or even retro fitted anything in my life. So anything info is helpful. Thanks

Kyle Harty

iTrader: (17)

It's been a few years since I've opened mine but I believe I've always done them at 200 degrees and tried to pry them open periodically (starting at 7-10 minutes) until they opened up. All depends on the oven too but I'd start at a lower temp to be safe and adjust as needed. The retrofitsource butyl is good stuff and you'll love the output on the LS430's, good luck with the project!

kowala

iTrader: (2)

using the oven is one way of opening the headlights, but I personally like the heat gun method. It allows you to have more control and is less risky IMO

lyonkster

275F seems a bit high. I went with 235F for about 10 minutes, and the lenses were fairly easy to pop off. I think 235F is high enough temp, it may just take a few minutes longer for the existing adhesive to fully warm up and become flexible. But I'd rather wait than expose the housing and lenses to high a temperature.

Oh, and don't forget to remove all bulbs, wiring, HID motors/ballasts, etc.

MikeFoxx

iTrader: (8)

Yes 275 seems high for sure... Def start lower for 7-10 minute intervals. You should be able to almost handle them with your bare hands right out the oven. Slow and steady is the key. You'll get them open without cracking anything.

Aristo722

Thanks for the input, and yeah all wiring is coming off. The plastic should be able to handle 200-235F degree heat and nothing will crack or fade?

goodyonsen

iTrader: (1)

interested in this topic as well. need to open and replace projector shroud

77i9

iTrader: (14)

I've always set mine to 215 degress and I let the oven get to the desired temp before I put in the headlight. I let it sit in there for 12 minutes and that should be enough to soften the adhesive. If the glue gets too runny you're gonna end up getting adhesive all over the reflectors and ruin them.

marshun

i used to believe in the heat gun. but an oven is definitely easier as you get to heat the whole thing at once.

i like 230 degrees myself.

also, make sure your lenses are CLEAN. ive seen people do **** work and have dirt baked into the lense.

Aristo722

My headlamps are HID Auto leving, will I still be able to retain that function with a projector?

I see most are doing 230-250 for 10 mins in the oven, I have an older oven so I think Ill go with 250 for 10mins. Whats best to pry it open with? A flat head screw driver or?

Organized Garage Status

When taking a headlight apart, we strongly recommend using a heat gun in that way you can isolate the heat. A $30-60 heat gun is definitely cheaper than a $600+ headlight. Although an oven is a great way to take it apart, a minute or two too long can go from a beautifully modified headlights, to a melted hunk-o-junk. We've seen headlights looking all normal while inside the oven, then as soon as you pull it out and a sudden change of temperature kicks in it just caves in so quickly you can't even comprehend what happened. At 300 degrees and checking it every 3 mins if it easy to manage would be a starting point. Then start prying open from the narrowest or pointiest side with an old blunt knife, in our case we use those nylon pry bars for taking off interior panel clips. The problem with a screwdriver is it's too narrow, and you'll end up breaking the casing instead of prying the lenses off.

We're a new vendor here and we specialize in headlight restoration or modification so let us know if we can be of any help.

Daniel

Aristo722

So when you are working it with a heat gun, do you just heat it up and pry it section by section?

Organized Garage Status

No sir. The technique is to heat up all around first. And always heat from the casing side, the lens can burn faster than the casing, either turn it upside down on a towel or cloth so you don't scratch the lenses, or just hold it in position. Keep the heat gun moving left to right, back and forth in each section, so you don't burn the casing or the lens. You'd know that a section is heated just right when the glue starts to melt and look gooey. Once you have done a full pass, then give the other side another quick pass, then you can start prying it open while trying to slice through the glue and using both hands to pull them apart. The glue takes time to settle back to being hard depending on the ambient temperature. Don't rush at all, just take your time. Getting them separate the first is very very hard. Every now and then you can reheat just the section where you're working on since it will start to harden faster than the rest soon as it is exposed to the air. When you see glue stretching while you're parting the lens and the casing make sure to blow it with the heat gun or pull the glue out, you don't want that ending up in the reflectors, very hard to take off. Once they start to separate it'll be easier to pull them apart. Good luck!

Aristo722

Thanks for the info! And re installing everything back is pretty much put all screws and new glue and just heat it up then let it cool on its own? Pretty straight forward?

Organized Garage Status

Yes, it should be. We scrape out the old glue and reinstall a new one, to make sure there would be no gaps in the seal, then press everything together, screws and clamps, and we're done. No need to reheat if its new glue.