RamAirRckt

Well, up to 243k miles and in the last 60k miles only changed the oil 3x.

30k on Amsoil 0W20
11k on Castral Edge w/titanium (old formula, gold bottle) 5W20
25k on Amsoil 0W20

So far the oil analysis shows no coolant, no fuel and no soot in the oil. Wear metals are down in the single digit ppm levels, aka, very very low engine wear.

Very pleased with the Amsoil going the long distance. The 11k on the Castrol showed it was doing its job but was approaching end of life. The Amsoil definately can go longer. But 25k seems good stopping point, 30k was just starting to show oil oxidation, so 30k is the end of life on that oil change.

I was running the Amsoil Eao15 filter on the last 2 Amsoil oil changes, and then a Wix 51515 on the Castrol.

But on this latest oil in the car I have a very large Amsoil Eao26. About 1 inch or more longer than a Wix 51515 (or FL1A or PH8A).

Looking to add an engine oil cooler though to see if that is the source of the oxidation at the very end of the oil change. If I can sample it at 25k with a oil cooler and show that the oxidation level has dropped, then it is an oil temp issue. Not major, but controlled oil temps are better always.

UDel

That's interesting.

Do you use any fuel treatment?

I think if you went with German OW 30 Castrol which is their only Group 4 true synthetic you likely would have been able to go longer between changes/breakdown. It would be interesting to see a comparison between German Castrol and Amsoil.

They have a deal at Autozone and other places now for Castrol Synthetic which includes the German OW 30 for 5 qts and a Bosch oil filter for $35, can't beat that plus you get a $10 Autozone card if you mail in the proof of purchase.

lostape45

Very interesting. One of my friends who is a mechanic was talking up Amsoil saying that he could reuse the oil he just drained from the car if he filtered it and gave the engine a new oil filter. I found it hard to believe but it seems like a pretty achievable claim after your results. He told me if everyone started using Amsoil, your local oil change shops would go out of business since the usual 3-5k interval turns into 6x times the normal interval.

No longer will I doubt Amsoil after your results, might just have to start using it myself.

Aron9000

Eh, I'd be a nervous wreck letting it go that long. I just use whatever synthetic is on sale at Wal-Mart and change it at 6k intervals. Wal-Mart beats the pants off of Advance, Autozone, etc for the price on oil BTW

RamAirRckt

Oil Analysis proves it works. My oil analysis proves also that garden variety cheapo synthetics like Castrol Edge w/titantum or Mobil 1 aren't up to the task of a long oil change. The TBN on the Castrol was down to 3.47 at 11k miles, Amsoil was down to 2.19 after 25k miles and my ballsy 30k drain the Amsoil down down to 1.62. The Castrol was thickening at 11k miles and my Amsoil at 25k was still meeting 0W20 spec, Castrol was out of spec for xW20 and in the low side of 30 weight weight already by 11k. The Amsoil on the 25k oil change was still solidly in the 20 weight range, the Amsoil at 30k was similar to the Castrol and on the low side of 30 weight. Castrol and most oils don't have much TBN to start, they are more like a TBN of 8, where Amsoil is usually a 12. Diesel oils are usually 12-13. TBN is very important.

Sure, it appears Castrol was better at 11k miles, but double or triple the miles on Castrol and you would be looking at a worn engine due to oil failure, possibly severely, the Amsoil didn't fail, even at 30k the very beginnings of oxidation were starting. So it shows Amsoil is a very tough oil. And the oil was out of spec for weight at 11k miles. For some engines today that is the start of valvetrain headaches.

I wouldn't push it long if I didn't have analysis proof it is able to hold up.

I won't buy "sale" oils, most all cheap synthetics aren't synthetics, thanks to our lame supreme court, dino oils refined a bit more can be called synthetic because they perform similar to some lame synthetics.

I won't buy cheap oils unless it is something I don't care about. I have 243k miles on my GS, and the oil analysis is showing me that there is no issues and wear metals are extremely low, even at a 25-30k oil change. I run the absolute biggest oil filter I can (and on a GS4, that is pretty big), why run a tiny one? Left drop in pressure across the element and higher filter capacity when going the long haul. And it adds some extra capacity. Always a good thing. Remember, Lexus uses one filter across the whole carline in 1998, so the small filter met "spec", but isn't necessarily the best filter. That is a big cost savings in the supply chain to run one filter across all Lexus and nearly all Toyota cars.

Just to clarify, most any oil today will far exceed Lexus' requirements for the 2JZ/1UZ/3UZ engines. If you change by 7500 miles, most any oil will do. But you might see more wear than a better oil with higher film strength. Some people claim they have seen 250-300k on cheapest dino oil and a fram filter. Can't say I would take that risk, but if you change it enough, it might do it. I would never advocate a Fram filter, not even on my lawn mower!!!

aj007

What's wrong with Fram and what are some better options?

RamAirRckt

Worst filter on the planet. They use a terrible element with CARDBOARD endcaps.

Watch this and see if you really want to use a FRAM filter anymore. Fram should be ashamed of themselves for what they make. But it is cheap and VERY profitable.


I would use on a For a Lexus GS300/400/430/IS300:

#1 Amsoil (which is a Dondaldson Synteq filter), use a EAO15 or a EAO42 (not as long as a 26)
#2 Wix use a 51515. It is bigger, bigger is better on a filter.
#3 Mobil 1 Filter has shown some very good filtration #'s on UOA (Used Oil Analysis)
#4 K&N Filter is pretty well made as well, similar to the Mobil 1.

On other Lexus/Toyotas, you may not get away with the larger filter (FWD cars), so use an Amsoil EAO34 (best choice), Wix 51516 (second choice).

I think the Purolator Synthetic filter is ok, the PureOne filters ok, but has an element problem that many people have noted the element tearing and then allowing unfiltered oil to pass. Avoid that one. It does a good job till it tears, then all that crap it caught goes through the engine all at once.

Most filters are simple paper filters that are cheaply made. The Toyota/Lexus branded filter is not bad, but still people who have taken it apart aren't impressed by it. It isn't as good as the Wix. The Amsoil/Donaldson Synteq filters are a depth filter, not a paper element, but a synthetic filber element that has a thick mesh that can trap a LOT of dirt, it doesn't simply fill up the surface and start to degrade oil flow, but it has a lot of room inside that catches the various sizes of dirt/soot/coke, so the flow over a long period of time is kept higher.

Paper filters are similar to the coffee filter. Notice that you can only filter just so much through it before it slows down and doesn't pass much anymore. Eventually it tears. Amsoil filters aren't like that. Most all filters are.

1QWKGS4

iTrader: (3)

I've been using Mobil Synthetic for over 15 years on my GS400 with a Stock Toy/Lex filter. I'm considering switching to a Pennzoil Ultra Platinum or Extended Mobil 1 oil and using a WIX 51515 filter you suggested. How much more oil does the car hold with the bigger filter. Usually with the stock filter its about 5.4-5.5 Qts as you know. How much more oil using the larger Wix or Amsoil larger filters?

Thanks

RamAirRckt

About a half to 3/4 quart more. With the EAO26 (longer than a 51515) I put in 7 quarts, but it is a tad high, it is ok a few min after you shut the car off, but if you check it after overnight sit it is overfull. I found that usually (at least on a Pontiac V8) you have to be a full 2 quarts over to have an issue. I pushed it on that engine because it leaked out so fast (rear main seal was GONE)....

When comparing oils, Mobil 1 to Pennzoil PP or Mobil 1 EP, there isn't much difference. On the same controlled tests Amsoil did for wear they all were worse than Amsoil. Mobil 1 EP had a wear scan 5x worse than Amsoil. And that is Mobil's best oil.....

http://www.amsoil.com/lit/g3115.pdf

1QWKGS4

iTrader: (3)

So is Using a Wix 51515, will it fill to about 6 Qts then?

1QWKGS4

iTrader: (3)

Is your gas mileage any better using 0w20 or 5w20 oil?

RamAirRckt

Driving 60/40 highway/city I get 23-24 mpg and best is 28 highway.

I have only seen under 20 1-2 times. Very very rare for me to get that bad....

Running 0W20 vs 5W30 maybe seem to make the mpg better in the winter when the oil is so much thicker.

My main reason for running xW20 oil is the faster lube flow in the -10F to -20F winters we get now and then. I want my engine to last.

RamAirRckt

Read this on engine oil, and you will understand why I run 0W20....

http://ferrarichat.com/forum/faq.php?faq=haas_articles

1QWKGS4

iTrader: (3)

Thanks. I live in the deep south close to Florida gulf so I think i need to stick with 5/30 due to very hot oven summers here.

When using a WIX 51515, Is it 6 Qts full the after an overnight or after a few minutes?

I usually fill to about 5.5 and but the next day the oil sits right on the "F" Letter where it says Full.

aj007

WTF!!!! I guess I have something new to learn about.

Hey RamAir, did you mean to type EAO15 twice?

What kind of damage can paper particles cause?

I bet if someone started making oil filters that were easy to disassemble after removing to demonstrate how good their filters were, they would pickup a lot of customers and **** off and expose the cheapos.