Pulling motor, need help how to unbolt engine mounts
I am in the process in removing my engine on a 02 GS300 and need help with getting the engine mounts unbolted. I looked beneath near the sub frame and don't see any place how to undo it like my SC300. I only see the side bolts that attaches the engine mount to the engine block, are these the bolts I remove to get the engine loose?
Can anyone give me any pointers or anything I should know, TIA
Can anyone give me any pointers or anything I should know, TIA
If you are removing the engine on a lift, I have found it much much faster to drop the engine and tranny together out the bottom,
You then do not need to remove the hood, rad, or anything else that is in the way.
You need to remove the tiered ends and the lower, inner control arm bolts. I remove the ABS wires where they bolt to the inner fender (one 10mm bolt) and then the driveshaft from the tranny.
It is then really easy to use your engine hoist to swap motors while on the ground and put it back in.
I have a rolling cart I use to lower everything onto.
This probably saves me 2-3 hours of taking off an putting back stuff that I would normally do and no risk of scratching the engine bay or other damage.
This is the way the cars are assembled at the factory so really it makes the most sense.
You then do not need to remove the hood, rad, or anything else that is in the way.
You need to remove the tiered ends and the lower, inner control arm bolts. I remove the ABS wires where they bolt to the inner fender (one 10mm bolt) and then the driveshaft from the tranny.
It is then really easy to use your engine hoist to swap motors while on the ground and put it back in.
I have a rolling cart I use to lower everything onto.
This probably saves me 2-3 hours of taking off an putting back stuff that I would normally do and no risk of scratching the engine bay or other damage.
This is the way the cars are assembled at the factory so really it makes the most sense.
If you are removing the engine on a lift, I have found it much much faster to drop the engine and tranny together out the bottom,
You then do not need to remove the hood, rad, or anything else that is in the way.
You need to remove the tiered ends and the lower, inner control arm bolts. I remove the ABS wires where they bolt to the inner fender (one 10mm bolt) and then the driveshaft from the tranny.
It is then really easy to use your engine hoist to swap motors while on the ground and put it back in.
I have a rolling cart I use to lower everything onto.
This probably saves me 2-3 hours of taking off an putting back stuff that I would normally do and no risk of scratching the engine bay or other damage.
This is the way the cars are assembled at the factory so really it makes the most sense.
You then do not need to remove the hood, rad, or anything else that is in the way.
You need to remove the tiered ends and the lower, inner control arm bolts. I remove the ABS wires where they bolt to the inner fender (one 10mm bolt) and then the driveshaft from the tranny.
It is then really easy to use your engine hoist to swap motors while on the ground and put it back in.
I have a rolling cart I use to lower everything onto.
This probably saves me 2-3 hours of taking off an putting back stuff that I would normally do and no risk of scratching the engine bay or other damage.
This is the way the cars are assembled at the factory so really it makes the most sense.
Thanks for the pointers guys, I have finally figured it out. This engine was leaking oil so bad that the oil dripped down to the sub frame, left a thick layer of oil and covered both covers that it couldn't be visible unless you knew where they were.
Angus, you would drop the engine and trans while your car was on a car lift right?
I don't see how it could be done jacking the car in park on the floor unless you are using really high floor jacks. My jack lifts the GS just enough where I can squeeze beneath to work on it.
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