GS - 2nd Gen (1998-2005) Discussion about the second generation GS300, GS400 and GS430 (1998 - 2005)

First DIY oil change on my 2001 GS300, a few q's

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Old 08-18-14, 09:40 PM
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reezekeys
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Default First DIY oil change on my 2001 GS300, a few q's

One of the few times the wonderful internet has failed me; I expected to see a bunch of U-tubes on this, but only saw one describing an oil change on a 2006 model. Nothing here as well. If I did miss a post with a good description, sorry! I really spent time looking.

I just got my 2001 GS300 about a month ago, and want to do an oil change. I've been doing my own OCs for years but they were all Subarus & Toyotas, not Lexuses! I thought I should play it safe and not assume that an oil change on a Lexus would be as uncomplicated as my previous cars. So here are a few q's, most of them pretty dumb I know... please bear with me!

1. I see a single large plastic panel underneath the car, held on by about 8 screws which I assume must come off, correct? (Yea, probably dumb q #1 –just trying to cover ALL the bases!)

2. The filter # that comes up when I search online is a 3614. I bought the Fram XG3614 to use with Mobil 1 5W-30. I'm gonna assume this is the correct filter, and that it's the later Lexuses that switched to the canister-type filters that require fiddling with O-rings. The 3614 is a standard screw on like the type I used with my previous Camry. Am I correct here?

3. Looking into the engine compartment, I cannot see the oil filter! I assume it's under the engine and will become visible from underneath when I remove the plastic panel. I have no idea what the orientation of the filter is and what type of oil filter wrench will work best to get it off. I have a strap style, but was thinking of buying a socket (cap) style like the kind I used with my Camry (which does not fit the XG3614).

4. Anything else I should know beyond the usual steps I did with my previous cars - basically:

a. open the fill cap
b. remove drain plug, drain into pan
c. replace drain plug
d. remove filter
e. put a little new oil on the gasket of the new filter, screw on & tighten 1/2 to 3/4 turn after making contact
f. fill with new oil, check for leaks, start engine, check for leaks, drive car a little, check oil level & top off.

Many thanks for any assistance!
Old 08-18-14, 11:59 PM
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teeekuuu
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I circled where the oil filter is , wrong angle but you get the point. Mine is a rhd so battery would be on the other side if yours is a lhd. You should see the oil filter from under the hood, it's on the side of the engine, right above the engine mount.

Get some brake cleaner and compressed air to clean up the mess that comes from unscrewing the old oil filter, will get some old oil on steering rack and engine mount. I personally don't want to see that on my dry engine. Brake cleaner and compressed air works like a charm, every time.

Get a new drain plug washer, not neccessary but you should replace it, if it looks bad enough.

1. Remove oil cap
2. Unscrew the bottom cover.
3. Drain oil and unscrew the old filter
4. Put some oil on the new filter gasket and screw it on, tighten 3/4 of a turn after gasket contact base.
5. But about 5L of oil in, it should be at MAX at that point (was with my 300)
6. Run engine for 30sec
7. Add neccessary amount of oil.


Forgot to add, i used this, but was rather uncomfortable, next time ill be approaching with something better, cant think of anything right now. But it works, just get it moving and it should move easily by hand anyway. https://encrypted-tbn1.gstatic.com/i...BmihRAKUcGL4gA

Last edited by teeekuuu; 08-20-14 at 01:09 AM.
Old 08-19-14, 09:48 AM
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reezekeys
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Thanks very much and I do feel like a dunce for not seeing the oil filter – I was expecting it to be in the front and bottom of the engine like all my previous cars and didn't think of looking anywhere else!

Everything you've written is crystal clear except 2- unscrew the bottom cover. Looking underneath, it seems like the oil drain plug is visible and accessible without removing this cover. Am I missing something? It sure looks like the oil drain plug. Thanks!!


Old 08-19-14, 11:16 AM
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raytseng
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If you replace drain plug you're supposed to also replace the plug crush washer. Otherwise everything you wrote seems fine.
Old 08-19-14, 11:49 AM
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reezekeys
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Is replacing the drain plug a normal or recommended procedure, or do you just mean in the event it's damaged? I've never done this with any of my other cars.

Last edited by reezekeys; 08-19-14 at 01:23 PM.
Old 08-19-14, 01:21 PM
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reezekeys
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OK just started. Weird item #1 - the cap wrench I got that fits the Fram XG3614 filter I bought spins freely on the oil filter that's currently installed! I've triple-checked and according to all web sites the XG3614 is the correct filter.

#2- just drained the oil, looks like there's no crush washer – unless it's stuck to the pan.

Last edited by reezekeys; 08-19-14 at 01:41 PM.
Old 08-19-14, 01:24 PM
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raytseng
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Originally Posted by reezekeys
Is replacing the drain plug a normal or reccomended procedure, or do you just mean in the event it's damaged? I've never done this with any of my other cars.
You probably will be fine.

But it's the service procedure as outlined in the service manual and probably was the procedure for your other cars too.
Just because you never done this before on your other cars doesn't mean you were doing your other cars correctly either. But since you went through the trouble of writing up and asking a question on the internet, sounded like you wanted to know the right way.

Plan out your order for service parts if you want to buy from the internet; and add in like 10 washers next time (to save on shipping). Or just stop by a toyota or lexus and buy the parts you need.

Not a big deal if you forget, as long as your car doesn't leak.
Old 08-19-14, 01:47 PM
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reezekeys
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Thanks raytseng. Looks like you posted just as I was editing my message above to say I saw NO crush washer!

I found dealer service records only up to 2006 online, so I'm guessing the recent previous owners also didn't follow the service procedure!

Hoping this is not a portend of things to come...
Old 08-19-14, 01:57 PM
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Spin on oil filters specifications do not require a specific cap shape. So a cap wrench may only be useful for a specific brand of filter.
This is a user misunderstanding; not a problem with either the filter or the wrench.

The oil wrenches that look like a giant pair of channel lock pliers are the best to get for spin on oil filters.
Old 08-19-14, 03:11 PM
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reezekeys
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Well it's done and everything looks good. My strap-type oil filter wrench definitely came in handy when the cap didn't fit the old filter – now I know why!

I think I should be concerned about no crush washer on the drain plug, however the car has been driven like that for thousands of miles – perhaps many thousands of miles, so I might wait until the next oil change to deal with it (while keeping a wary eye on the oil pressure warning light! ) I torqued it a decent amount – didn't go crazy though.

Thanks again for your helpful advice!
Old 08-19-14, 07:09 PM
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raytseng
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No worries. Youre good for 7500 miles now. Next change, double check that it's not stuck to the pan. Have fun with your car!
Old 08-20-14, 01:07 AM
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teeekuuu
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I took the bottom plastic cover off, so it wouldn't get oily and also i unscrewed the old filter from under the car. Since i had it lifted at work. Also gonna just add the drain plug + washer info into the post, so next time someone needs help he can search and get answers from one post.
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