trinituner

So I recently put my new tires on 245/35/19 but now I am shaking like hell after 45/50 MPH. The shake does not go away as speed increases but instead seems to get worst. I have already changed my lower ball joints, tie rod ends, and upper control arms. I had my tires balanced at a local tire shop but I heard that some after market wheels require higher end balancing machines, is this true? I really don't want to keep spending money behind balancing if I don't have to. If not what else could could the problem be? Thanks for any help.

trinituner

no hub-centric rings but the wheels seem to fit pretty snug on the hub

Sampak

After you've made sure the wheel hubs are all good and you don't need an adapter (visually looking good is not good enough), then make sure the tire shop you take it to (or even a dealer) can do a Road Force balance. It's better than a simple spin balance as mentioned above, as they apply a roller against the tire as it's spinning to measure any other imbalance in the tire under load. Also they should dismount and remount the tire in the process (if they're good) so that the imbalance of the wheel and tire cancel each other out as much as possible, then balance the whole thing together as usual so it requires less weights (which helps get the perfect balance just a bit more).

RamAirRckt

Get a mag base dial indicator and measure the runout of the rim and tire assy, this will tell you if there is an out of round problem (hub centric rings needed or not)

trinituner

So I ended up getting the hub-centric rings and although it helped a little the shake is still there. Whats strange is that sometimes its just a slight shake and at other times its pretty bad..

SprtDesign

iTrader: (21)

Your front rotors could be warped also you may need to change your LCA #2 caster arms.

RamAirRckt

Warped rotors (remember, this is actually somewhat rare condition,usually it is brake pad material stuck on the backside of the rotor) will only cause a vibration UNDER BRAKING.

Wheels out of round, or problem with centric, wheels out of balance will have vibration that does not change under braking. Note this will get worse with speed, never better. And constant, not "comes and goes".

Worn suspension will CHANGE under braking, in most cases STOP when under braking or change notably.

Worn shocks/struts will change with speed, they will tend to get better, worse, better, worse, depending on the sine wave of the vibration. This one is much harder to nail down. But changing wheel weight makes a radial change on the unsprung weight. So if you have some lighter wheels, like stock ones, put them on, one at a time and it will help you nail down the problem wheel. Aftermarket rims are often HEAVY and really hurt the shock's ability to dampen the vibrations and control the ride. More unsprung weight (heavy wheels) makes the car ride softer, lighter unspring weight make the car feel stiffer.

My suspect is Control Arm #2/Caster Arm. When you brake you radially change the force on Control Arm #2, and if that is the problem you will get a change in the vibration.

I think I posted earlier, take a ratchet strap, wrap it around the control arm and pull it hard backwards on something, see if the problem is gone or significantly changed. Bet you will see it improve a lot. Do one at a time and then do both. Also, if you can, pull it FORWARD too, see what changes. You will need a tough strap to do this. You need a lot of force on it.

Also, have someone drive next to you when it is doing it in the worst case vibration and video tape it. See if you can see it.

Worn shocks/struts can do it as well.

Sampak

Yup was thinking if it changes with speed, most definitely worn shocks + in this case mass of larger than stock wheel. But the OP is not experiencing change in feel with speed.

As mentioned make sure the tire shop is doing its part of balancing the wheels and tires correctly (ask for Road Force balancing or go somewhere it can be done right).

Otherwise as above, sounds like you've got less simple but still important part(s) to fix (caster arm?).

Doneve79

Im not sure if it was doing it before, but i had a similar situation after I bought new tires & one of them was defective. Spent a few bucks trying to balance them & to figuire out what was going on etc...but no success. If you can, rotate the tires front to back & see if it continues. if yes, then you have some mechanical issues. Also, try different tire shops w different machine.

Goodluck!

sc4jms

iTrader: (20)

you know I have the same issue on mine. but it is not that noticeable until about 65. I believe it is caster arm #2. if the bushings are truly bad you should be able to see some kind of movement if you can get your car on a rack. in my case one is worse than the other but plan on replacing both as a precaution.

rafizgora

check on you wheel bearings dude i've changed mines and the problem was solved... wheele baearing is not that expensive so try it... mine was completley gon, so changig it helped me alot. and i've got the same problem as You


peace

Mr Jokster

iTrader: (8)

X's 2 on the bearing, especially with running bigger than stock wheels. I've had the same problem on mine for about 4 years (also starting at 50 and gets worse) recently its become VIOLENT! Anyways, I've changed every bushing and joint possible including caster arm bushing (control arm #2, whatever you want to call it) ball joints, sway bar bushings, end links etc. Still have the shake. Theres nothing left to change but my bearing or axle hub. I've got the parts, only yet to actually do the work O_o hope it fixes it. Oh and I have no signs that its the bearing, however a mechanic friend (of a dealership) said he's on many occasions found destroyed bearings on vehicles that had no sign i.e noises or being able to move the wheel by had while up in air.

Does the shake go away when you turn right or left? Try taking a "junction" on a freeway (the ones that turn out) so you can do it at high speed and do it in both directions to see if a load takes the shake away. That will at least tell you which side its on. LAST thing it could be is your driveshaft, bad u-joints can transfer vibrations to the wheels, but usually changes with speed.

veron1987

it's that tte lip man...you will never get rid of that shake.I'll take it.

sc4jms

iTrader: (20)

just a heads up. on my other gs. I had shaking going on after 65, it wasn't the steering wheel shaking it was actually the whole car. turns out my rear wheels were out of balance. did them both and no more shaking. on my other gs I definitely do have to replace the bushing.

Ivabor

I had the same problem with my and replaced a lot of parts, nothing to get better, one day stoped in traffic I was playing with brake pedal and found out the pedal were stuck down, just enough to the pads touch the disc, so the car was getting the vibration of the brakes.