Im TIRED of spending on my lexus gs 400
10-17-12, 04:13 AM
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Im TIRED of spending on my lexus gs 400
Hello everyone,
I bought myself a lexus gs 400 model 2000 two years ago.At first the power and the accelaration was huge.Since a year it seems to be a 4 cylinder corolla rather than an 8 cylinder.
the problems are
The cars accelelaration is huge when the cars cold in the morning and dies off in 5 mins when the cars gets to the normal heat.
In between 120km to 140 km when i press the paddle the car engine and rpm holds for a few seconds and then gets the accelration.
Its consuming alot of fuel that is 200 miles per tank in city and 320 miles highway.
the car seems to be under heavy load.
things i have changed
the injectors,coils,plugs,fuel pump,gear oil and gear filter.
is there any problem with the cars computer or the throttle body?
i have cleared the catalysts as they were clogged.so there are no catalysts now.
kindly advise me of what to do?
thank you all
I bought myself a lexus gs 400 model 2000 two years ago.At first the power and the accelaration was huge.Since a year it seems to be a 4 cylinder corolla rather than an 8 cylinder.
the problems are
The cars accelelaration is huge when the cars cold in the morning and dies off in 5 mins when the cars gets to the normal heat.
In between 120km to 140 km when i press the paddle the car engine and rpm holds for a few seconds and then gets the accelration.
Its consuming alot of fuel that is 200 miles per tank in city and 320 miles highway.
the car seems to be under heavy load.
things i have changed
the injectors,coils,plugs,fuel pump,gear oil and gear filter.
is there any problem with the cars computer or the throttle body?
i have cleared the catalysts as they were clogged.so there are no catalysts now.
kindly advise me of what to do?
thank you all
10-17-12, 04:48 AM
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i donot know the exaust guy said its clogged.There was no copper sand in it but just a normal filter there.so he took the catalyst out and cleaned the clogged net that was in the filter
10-17-12, 07:50 AM
#5
First thing's first, this isn't the car's fault. It's YOUR fault for throwing parts at a problem without properly diagnosing. Injectors, coils, plugs, fuel pump and removed cats without reading any codes or any diag work? Foolish.
How many miles on the car? What service has been done?
You removed the cats, which no doubt is now throwing a code. The front o2's and rear o2's are supposed to have different readings due to the cats, now they're reading the same. There's a reason that's the case, because your o2's are directly correlated to your air/fuel mixture under closed loop.
Good acceleration while cold and bad when warm means it's falling on it's face under closed loop. You didn't change o2 sensors, which I'd suspect to be the main cause. With no cats, you'll either have to get o2 simulators to change the rear sensor's output signal, or use a spark plug nonfouler to move it further up and away from the exhaust flow to limit the amount of exhaust entering the sensor, which accomplishes the same goal. There are many posts about this on many forums, google is your friend here.
The suggestion of the MAF is a decent one, it is an old car and these things can go wrong. I wouldn't bother doing this until you've either fixed your o2's or reinstalled good catalytic converters.
I hope you can see that throwing all these parts at your car was useless...it's clearly a metering issue and you didn't change one thing that has anything to do with air/fuel metering. The good news is, you have all that new stuff in there for when you do actually diagnose and repair the issue properly.
How many miles on the car? What service has been done?
You removed the cats, which no doubt is now throwing a code. The front o2's and rear o2's are supposed to have different readings due to the cats, now they're reading the same. There's a reason that's the case, because your o2's are directly correlated to your air/fuel mixture under closed loop.
Good acceleration while cold and bad when warm means it's falling on it's face under closed loop. You didn't change o2 sensors, which I'd suspect to be the main cause. With no cats, you'll either have to get o2 simulators to change the rear sensor's output signal, or use a spark plug nonfouler to move it further up and away from the exhaust flow to limit the amount of exhaust entering the sensor, which accomplishes the same goal. There are many posts about this on many forums, google is your friend here.
The suggestion of the MAF is a decent one, it is an old car and these things can go wrong. I wouldn't bother doing this until you've either fixed your o2's or reinstalled good catalytic converters.
I hope you can see that throwing all these parts at your car was useless...it's clearly a metering issue and you didn't change one thing that has anything to do with air/fuel metering. The good news is, you have all that new stuff in there for when you do actually diagnose and repair the issue properly.
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