Aadaamm

iTrader: (7)

So some of the issues i am having is fuel pump doesn't trigger when i turn the key to ON and when i turn the key to CRANK nothing happens. When i turn the key to ON no lights show up not even the check engine light.

These are the things i deleted on the car:

- all 4 o2 sensors

-stock oil pressure sensor

-MAF plug

-Stock throttle body and the plugs

-removed the ABS solenoid

-deleted the abs/vsc relay box

-deleted the abs/vsc ecu

-deleted all the plugs that went to the automatic transmission (connected the neutral safety switch wires) (using r154)

Plugs/Sensors i still have:

- 2 knock sensors

- TPS

- Camshaft position sensor

- Crankshaft position sensor

- Starter signal

- Coolant temp

- Alternator

- VVT-i solenoid

- Ignitor


Things I added:

- AEM map sensor

- AEM air temp sensor

- AEM wideband

- AEM EMS v1

GSTim

iTrader: (1)

Do you have a ECU? without a metering sensor(MAF or MAP), how does the ecu know if air is coming in.

99 GS3

iTrader: (14)

So your fuel pump doesn't run with the key on? Did you do the 12v mod to bypass the fuel pump ecu? Because there are 2 signal wires from the stock engine ecu to the pump ecu to trigger it on. If no ecu it won't come on, but if you bypass the pump ecu completely it will turn on without the engine ecu. I assume you also checked the 25amp fuse on the pass side fuse box in the engine bay that is labeled EFI, this is the fuel pump fuse.

He is running an EMS.

99 GS3

iTrader: (14)

You may have bypassed it already, but if not here is the information to do it.

You can remove the ecu from the car entirely.

Cut and leave the two small gauge wires disconnected, those were the wires from the ecu (DI & FPC).

You can then connect together the White/Black Stripe (chassis ground) to the Blue/White Strip (pump ground)

And connect together the Black/Red Stripe (batt positive) to the Blue/Red Stripe (pump positive)

Doing this just feeds the power from the efi/pump relay up front directly to the pump.

Here is a pic of the pump ecu located behind the carpet in the trunk on the driver side.



And here is the wiring diagram:

Aadaamm

iTrader: (7)

so doing this just bypass my fuel pump when turning key to on? but i still can't figure out why the car wont trigger the starter signal


and without the fuel pump ecu my fuel pump is just going to be on the whole time right? while my key is in the on position?

99 GS3

iTrader: (14)

I re-read your post and see that you say you have no dash lights at all when you turn the key to ON, you've got other issues then.

There were 5 (6) plugs on the ecu, three went to the engine, those are easy enough I'm sure you got all those proper sensors connected to the EMS. But the other 2 ecu connectors jumped to the chassis harness to go to the cabin. It sounds like have something not connected correctly in the chassis side when you relocated the wiring. This is where the start signal would feed from.

If you need any diagrams/pdf's PM me an email address to send them to, I'll send you what I can.


The engine ecu control wires trigger the fuel pump ecu and would also do the switchover from 9v to 12v.

By removing it, when your key is in ACC no pump, when the key is in ON position the pump will start to run at 12v continuously.

99 GS3

iTrader: (14)

I assume you wired a gte non-vvti IAC valve to the EMS underneath that new intake plenum?

Nice install BTW..

JeffTsai

iTrader: (1)

99GS3, doing the pump ECU bypass that you specified...will that make the pumps run non stop whenever the car is keyed on? If it does, isn't that defeating the whole safety aspect of it lol?Then again if you're modifying then I'm guessing it does not matter as much to him heh. If he's running EMS standalone, he could probably use one of the low side triggers to power a relay for the pump. Then program the EMS to drop the relay trigger when rpm is 0.

99 GS3

iTrader: (14)

The pump ecu bypass doesn't do anything different as far as triggering on/off power from the key than the car did in stock form.

One click on the key is interior power, and the second click runs the fuel pump, engine ecu, dash warning lights. Same thing as before the mod.

The car still has the stock fuse and fuel pump relay under the hood on the passenger side, same as any typical car. The pump ecu isn't a relay just a speed controller for the pump.

Now if he is running two pumps then he should add an additional relay and power feed for the second pump. I know I've seen a few IS and SC guys running two pumps off the stock single relay and wire but that is running on the ragged edge of the wire gauge/distance of the stock feed.

Like you mentioned he could defiantly setup different pump trigger scenarios with the EMS if he wanted, or trigger a second pump from it. As I'm triggering a second pump on at 3800 using a second relay and power run, just not with an EMS and it works fine, but two walbro's are damn noisy at full bore I'm gonna be swapping those out for something else at some point.

My main question to him was if there is no more stock ecu at all and the fuel pump ecu is still wired in place with no signals to it at all from the ecu it may be why he got no fuel pump running, but then after re-reading the initial post he has no dash warning lights either, so it really sounds like he doesn't have the ignition tied in properly from the chassis side wiring that were in the no relocated ecu box.. ?

I'm sure you have plenty of insight to help him get this car started as I think I've seen you've done EMS's before.. Maybe you have some advice for troublshooting his possible wiring/ignition situation.

Aadaamm

iTrader: (7)

Just got a brand new uncut engine harness and plugged everything on but still get no power to fuel pump and engine does not turn over. Also another thing is that my check engine light is not on... Anyone have any suggestions please? Willing to pay good money to someone around the area to come over and help me out