Mr Jokster

iTrader: (8)

Ok, so I've searched many times in the past in regards to swapping out alternators from other cars for more output but didnt find any detailed information. I remember reading about swapping guts from a Lincoln, but nobody had complete info... Anyways, so I've been running 2500 real watts of power for my system (~200a+ draw) not that fake bullshat amps that say they do what they dont lol and 2 compressors (another 60a) so yea, our little ol' alt hasnt liked me much Well, after 4 years strong, it finally gave out (tough little sucker). Well, my best friend builds starters and alternators for a living so I took it to him. Our factory alt from what I've read is 100a, however he tested it and and it actually puts out 110a. Well, with some research, he found out that the alternator was built like the one off a Dodge Van which actually puts out 140a. So the trick? Swap out the stator and it will put out 140a with no problem.

So, for those needing a few more amps of out put without having to spend $500, find a rebuilder and ask them to swap the stator and all will be well with more power


I wrote this in a hurry, so if you have any questions, let me know

oohpapi44

iTrader: (1)

The Lincoln Town Car swap does work, I'm running one now. I think I'm at 120a though, props for finding another 20.

BiGEZ

iTrader: (24)

Thanks for sharing this info. I have a local alt builder not far from me need to chack it out. I have an extra GS alt sitting in my garage.

Category5

thats awesome man, what kind of dodge van are we speaking of here? Year? lol I want to call my local radiator guy but I dont want to sound stupid and say "Yea im looking to replace my Gs's rotor, and found its compatible with one of higher amp. output, I need a Dodge van rotor...." LOL!!! (not calling you stupid just saying how it'll sound haha"

Anyhow did this work out as planned? Any updates? Thanks bro.

EDIT* lol sorry I dont know anything about dodges except there diesels, must be a caravan?

Mr Jokster

iTrader: (8)

Working on it and actually its the stator not rotor. I dont know how I made that mistake. I'm gonna try and get that info tomorrow.

As for updates, well obviously 150a isnt enough to support what I have, however I do have 3 auxiliary batteries to step up to the plate. As long as i'm at 2k rpm or more, is still charges at 13.8+ volts so our alternators are still beasts. However at idle, it understandably drops and thats how I've been running things. When the system is slumpin' I dont get too much drop (mostly due to having so many auxiliary batteries. I basically keep things at a doable level for the alternator that I have. I dont abuse it and baby it as much as I can. Currently my auxiliary batteries took a shat and its causing major issues with the alternator (which is brand new as of just a few months ago, I had it rebuilt again because sludge from the engine got in and destroyed it) and it drops as low as 9volts with just the compressors on, but I blame that on not having the storage I used to. Once I take the time to rebuild my trunk and remove the dead batteries, I'll see how the alternator holds up... I dont see any promising signs

Category5

Haha Jesus man yea you got a setup Going there huh? I don't know man, I don't have much faith in out alternators whatsoever to be honest. This will be my 3rd alternator, replaced the stock one, now this OEM used one but had real low miles on it is taking a s*** on me too. I don't have anything significant either, it seems just my head lights and fogs alone seem to be bothersome to it, but of course when my stereo is on and its night time, I was able to slowly see the difference in my idle, would surge on me. I'm running two Image dynamic 12's with a two TRU technologies amps, one for the subs, the other for my CDT's cant remember the output of it all but it's def. And obviously lol a bit much. My car won't start after just one night of sitting, new battery too. What's odd is when I took my car to autozone to have them just check my alternator for me real quick, there trash said it wasn't either one, battery or alternator, and that both were fine, but actually my starter was coming up as bad. It's wrong though, my car at start up has been having a whine noise that's been progressively getting louder and lasting longer and longer past warm up. Well it's coming from the alternator A), and B) a bad starter wouldn't kill my battery to the point where not even enough juice remains to even faintly light up LED's. Straight up I just need to rebuild this one, with a higher amperage stator exactly as you have said. I walked out the other day after letting her run for about 10 minutes to get a bit of a charge back up after jumping, and the entire dam car was shaking like crazy I ran and shut the thing off, said I won't turn this key again until that dam alternators out. Haha anyhow keep me updated brother I would really appreciate your experience as I'm in a bit of a tangle here.

Category5

Vanished on me brother? Dam

NYGS300

I was using my stock alt on a pretty big setup on my car (about 6000 RMS / 10000 Max) with 3 extra batteries, big three done, and only zero guage running. I killed my stock alt in a week. Not sure if you did any upgrades (big 3, additional batteries, or even the one battery upgraded), but I think the stock Lexus alt doesn't do quite so well without backup ( things I mentioned in this). My alternator started making a crazy whining noise and I knew it was dieing, but I didn't care since I had ordered a 240A from Mechman. Ever since I switched it out, its been great. Do you have a voltage tester or meter? Do some tests on your alt and battery and see what you come up to.

Mr Jokster

iTrader: (8)

I was in hospital for a week and came back with many threads to help the unfortunate, I missed this one. Sadly the friend that does this for me is that one friend that we all have who is worthless and wont do the simplest things unless he feels like it. I've texted him numerous times with no reply. However, in the past 4 or so months, I've read in multiple threads of people taking their alternators in for rebuild and the shops already know what to do.

You dont need any info to give them, they already know. Just like us mechanics know that by re-calibrating a TPS sensor will give you higher or lower idle, an alternator rebuilder will look at the alternator and know exactly what component is needed to have it push more juice. Just take it in and say hey I need a rebuild and I've heard you can beef it up to 140a with a stator from another vehicle.


I thought your thread said 6k max and only 3k continuous I know those amps and they're great when fed, but on a good day, at best (if you can sustain at least 12v), you'll get max 2800w each. If you get that 240, you're gonna easily gain like another decibel or 2, you'll love yourself when you do that swap.

Anyway, I've ran 2500watts rms + 2 air compressors equivalent to another 700watts continuous off the stock amp beefed, all the upgrades, 50lbs of 0awg and only 2 small auxiliary batteries (1400w Kinetik) for 7 years with no problems, now unless you're abusing and not treating with care, a stock alternator can do its job, also are you using a solenoid/isolater? As I'm sure you should know, even if you're running 3k rms, its not actually 3k unless you feed the power it actually needs, for pure curiosity you should put a meter on them to see what you're actually getting without the juice it needs cause I'm sure even with the extra batteries you're voltage is mega dropping.

After those 7 years, my auxiliary batteries finally gave out. Hold on, actually the alternator lasted for about 3 years and died ONLY because I had an oil leak directly into the alternator creating sludge that killed the alternator, I'm still running on stock alternator, but now with no reserve, my voltage drops horribly!

Category5

LOLOL!!!!! that had my dying laughing man hahaha so dam true its sad as hell, anyhow glad your alright obviously and thanks for the response, I kind of figured I could just tell my dude and hed make it happen. thanks a lot man.

superjohn

Can you share details of the vehicle?

What year of Dodge Van?
What model of Dodge Van? Caravan?
Which sub-model? V6? V8?

I would really like to know which specific vehicles can swap out alternator internals for more amps. I only read "Lincoln Town Car" and "Dodge Van" in forums like this, but I never can find specific details.

Mr Jokster

iTrader: (8)

As stated above, this friend of mine with the info is hard to get anything out of. I got a hold of him and the guy that does the upgrades is on vacation for a couple of weeks. He told me he was going to try and get a hold of him to get some info... So in saying that, I have no clue when I can get back to you, mostly because this guy whose on vacation somehow is always and conveniently on vacation when I call my friend for information LoL

Are you planing on doing the upgrade yourself? If not, also as stated above, any alternator rebuild shop should know what to do; its their nature.

badblackgs

iTrader: (1)

somewhere on club lexus i read an article someone posted about tricking the stock alternator to put out more power by installing a 6amp diode in the alternator sensing wire, thus making the factory ecm ramp up the output. ever heard of that?

Mr Jokster

iTrader: (8)

Actually I have, however it only increases the voltage by around 1/2 a volt, but doesnt change the amperage output. This doesnt change power issues because the battery will still charge at the same rate as the OEM is designed for, which is 100a-110a. Amperage change is like increasing the size of the nozzle at the end of a water hose, voltage is like turning the handle at the beginning of the hose. Your components will be happy, but your batter will still be drained. All in all, you want the alternator to fill the battery faster than the components discharge it. If your components in total suck 200a, you want AT LEAST 200a alternator. That will just keep an even cycle, but better to have the alternator push out a bit more so the battery never really gets discharged.

superjohn

I'm going to take it to a shop, but it would help the shop if I could let them know which Year/Make/Model's can swap the stator or other internals. The shop I spoke to didn't know and asked if I could provide more info about getting 140A. That's the only shop I could find within 20mi and it has good reviews. There are more further out.