My GS400 won't start...NEED HELP!!!
08-23-04, 03:28 PM
#31
Somebody please help!
I recently purchased my 98 GS4.
Sometimes in the morning, the car starts up. But on other mornings, I am able to start the car, but it dies again within 2 seconds of starting it. Try it a few more times and it finally works.
Is this just a problem that 1st year GS's have or could this be major?
btw, car has never totally died on it (and I hope I don't junx it). It works after 3 or 4 tries, but I am worried because I got the car recently.
Sometimes in the morning, the car starts up. But on other mornings, I am able to start the car, but it dies again within 2 seconds of starting it. Try it a few more times and it finally works.
Is this just a problem that 1st year GS's have or could this be major?
btw, car has never totally died on it (and I hope I don't junx it). It works after 3 or 4 tries, but I am worried because I got the car recently.
08-23-04, 03:41 PM
#32
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Originally posted by BlackDiamond
I tried to post this the other day but either my ISP or CL was down...
Anyway, there are lots of other things besides a starter that could be bad. One quick check you can do, is to disconnect both the positive cables from your battery. One goes to the starter motor and one goes to the fuse panel. Now, with a meter, check the resistance of both of these cables from the cable to ground. Make sure you use a ground point like the engine block. You should see a reading of someting above 40-50 ohms, but not 0 or 1 ohm. If the connection to the fuse panel reads close to zero, you can then start pulling fuses until it jumps back up. Once it does, look at the panel cover to determine what the fuse does, and then go from there.
This may sound like an odd way to do things, but believe it or else, my wife's '99 Suburban had a bad horn that caused the vehicle not to start, and I used this method to find it in about 20 minutes. Basically, theres a large number of things connected to the same fuse panel as the ECU and if they short to ground, they will pull the whole fuse panel down, and as in my wifes case, the current draw wasn't enough to blow the fuse.
I'd hate to think what the dealer would have charged me for the two batteries, alternator, and starter motor they would have replaced before figuring out something else was wrong! A bad horn??? Go figure...
I tried to post this the other day but either my ISP or CL was down...
Anyway, there are lots of other things besides a starter that could be bad. One quick check you can do, is to disconnect both the positive cables from your battery. One goes to the starter motor and one goes to the fuse panel. Now, with a meter, check the resistance of both of these cables from the cable to ground. Make sure you use a ground point like the engine block. You should see a reading of someting above 40-50 ohms, but not 0 or 1 ohm. If the connection to the fuse panel reads close to zero, you can then start pulling fuses until it jumps back up. Once it does, look at the panel cover to determine what the fuse does, and then go from there.
This may sound like an odd way to do things, but believe it or else, my wife's '99 Suburban had a bad horn that caused the vehicle not to start, and I used this method to find it in about 20 minutes. Basically, theres a large number of things connected to the same fuse panel as the ECU and if they short to ground, they will pull the whole fuse panel down, and as in my wifes case, the current draw wasn't enough to blow the fuse.
I'd hate to think what the dealer would have charged me for the two batteries, alternator, and starter motor they would have replaced before figuring out something else was wrong! A bad horn??? Go figure...
08-24-04, 06:30 AM
#36
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I took the battery out of my car yesterday and I am going to go get it checked and hopefully it is bad b/c I do not feel like dropping 800 on a starter. I was unable to jump it last night. When I did go to start it the gauges flickered on and off as it made the clicking sound. Also the last time I drove it on Saturday the stereo was cutting in and out and when I was pulling in my parking spot I started losing the power steering and all of the warning lights on the dash were coming on. This makes me think that it has to be the battery or the alternator since the car was already running.
08-25-04, 01:50 AM
#37
I had the same problem happen to my car yesterday. I got in to crank it up; it turned, clicked and then nothing. The problem turned out to be a loose positive terminal to the battery. Try to move your battery terminals, if in fact it moves, that will most likely be your problem.
Last edited by 4double0; 08-25-04 at 01:51 AM.
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11-22-05, 03:05 PM
#38
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hi... dragged this out of the dustbin. those who have posted in this thread... how did you resolve your problems?
i have the EXACT same problem as the original poster did. i had a rebuilt oem starter installed and it will still not start out of the blue. i get 12v at rest, 10v when trying to start (CLICK)/starting with engine actually turning over, and 14v when it is running. i am running an optima redtop and the positive terminal is loose, but even moving it around and clamping it down/jumpstarting makes no difference.
please help because i don't like getting stranded anymore and i've been to private mechanics and alarm installers... all that is left is the stealership who will charge me straight shop time until they "find" the problem
i have the EXACT same problem as the original poster did. i had a rebuilt oem starter installed and it will still not start out of the blue. i get 12v at rest, 10v when trying to start (CLICK)/starting with engine actually turning over, and 14v when it is running. i am running an optima redtop and the positive terminal is loose, but even moving it around and clamping it down/jumpstarting makes no difference.
please help because i don't like getting stranded anymore and i've been to private mechanics and alarm installers... all that is left is the stealership who will charge me straight shop time until they "find" the problem
11-23-11, 03:28 AM
#39
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I am bringing this post back from the grave...
My car is doing pretty much the same thing... I just replaced the contacts in the starter... then tested it... it tested good... and put the car all back together thinking it would start... but no luck. It is a 98 gs400... Also the parking lights come on but not the headlights... All the lights in the car and on the dash come on as well... Car has factory HID's... I just replaced the battery 2mos ago...
Another thing... when turning the ignition switch... Im not really sure i hear a click... just what seems to me to be the fuel pump getting a signal to pump gas... no real distinctive loud clicks from the engine bay...
Any help would be greatly appreciated..
Thanks Marcus
My car is doing pretty much the same thing... I just replaced the contacts in the starter... then tested it... it tested good... and put the car all back together thinking it would start... but no luck. It is a 98 gs400... Also the parking lights come on but not the headlights... All the lights in the car and on the dash come on as well... Car has factory HID's... I just replaced the battery 2mos ago...
Another thing... when turning the ignition switch... Im not really sure i hear a click... just what seems to me to be the fuel pump getting a signal to pump gas... no real distinctive loud clicks from the engine bay...
Any help would be greatly appreciated..
Thanks Marcus
Last edited by SUPRAboy80; 11-23-11 at 03:36 AM. Reason: added info
11-23-11, 03:33 AM
#40
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I am wondering if if could be the key? AKA the security feature..? My key has not worked in for ever to lock or unlock the doors.... the buttons in it dont work anymore... so i have not used that feature in a long time... I just went and bought a new battery for the key (CR1616) and put it in.... I was expecting the light on the remote to flash when pressing buttons but it does not.
11-23-11, 07:20 AM
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I checked around on the forums some more and saw that the 40a main fuse was blown in the fuse box next to the battery.... I checked the forums a bit and saw that someone posted that they changed the starter and that fuse as well... so im running to toyo to get a couple...
okay... update... I ran down to toyota an picked up a couple of 40a main fuses... i put one in and tried to start the car... i got nothing..... so i tried to start it again... and it started... it was a weak start but it started.. So i thought my problem was solved.... I turned the car off and then tried to start it again... this time nothing....... I checked the 40a main fuses and it was blown again... Does anyone know what could be causing this? Im not really sure how to test the starter relay.....
okay... update... I ran down to toyota an picked up a couple of 40a main fuses... i put one in and tried to start the car... i got nothing..... so i tried to start it again... and it started... it was a weak start but it started.. So i thought my problem was solved.... I turned the car off and then tried to start it again... this time nothing....... I checked the 40a main fuses and it was blown again... Does anyone know what could be causing this? Im not really sure how to test the starter relay.....
11-23-11, 07:31 AM
#42
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My car used to do the same thing and then it just wouldn't start! So I changed my starter & battery!!!! And now it's all fixed!!! Cost me a tOtal of 850$ for parts & labour
11-23-11, 07:32 AM
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11-25-11, 12:27 AM
#44
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Hey lex fam,
I just had the battery replaced 6 days ago due to the previous battery which I only had for 7 months (bought brand new) was supposedly not the exact correct battery for my car, so about 8 days ago the car was hesitant to start but would eventually start with one try of a key turn, I contacted my lexus mom and pop shop, and he changed it to another interstate battery perfect for the 99 gs3 (so the car guy claims), sorry guys don't know the specs to the T, but after it was replaced the car started perfect with no hesitation. So today I was in and out of my car today, no issues. I get in my car late tonight, make a 2 mile drive to local store, still no problems or symptoms leading me to suspect problems. I come home, park in my spot, get out, lock the car with the key remote, I didn't like the way I parked my car so decided to park again. I unlocked the car with my remote again with no problems, get in the car began to start the car, and the electric panel flashes on and immediately blacks COMPLETELY OUT, and the car is pitch black, NOTHING is turning on, no break lights, nada....I can't even lock the doors by pressing the buttons on the door...so I had to manually lock the car, the remote still works of course, but because the electric is off on my car, the remote is no use, so to get back in I have to manually unlock using the key hole! Can anyone tell me what this could be? I'm soo sick of this battery crap! this is a 99 GS300 with 157k miles...one owner. (well my mom is the original owner, and I have been driving it for 2 years now), hopefully someone can provide some insight on what it could possibly be!
I'm worried this is more then a battery, because even with a dead battery, from what I've experienced the electrical panel still comes on, and I'm still able to lock the car with the key remote, and execute the break lights.
Thanks yall!
I just had the battery replaced 6 days ago due to the previous battery which I only had for 7 months (bought brand new) was supposedly not the exact correct battery for my car, so about 8 days ago the car was hesitant to start but would eventually start with one try of a key turn, I contacted my lexus mom and pop shop, and he changed it to another interstate battery perfect for the 99 gs3 (so the car guy claims), sorry guys don't know the specs to the T, but after it was replaced the car started perfect with no hesitation. So today I was in and out of my car today, no issues. I get in my car late tonight, make a 2 mile drive to local store, still no problems or symptoms leading me to suspect problems. I come home, park in my spot, get out, lock the car with the key remote, I didn't like the way I parked my car so decided to park again. I unlocked the car with my remote again with no problems, get in the car began to start the car, and the electric panel flashes on and immediately blacks COMPLETELY OUT, and the car is pitch black, NOTHING is turning on, no break lights, nada....I can't even lock the doors by pressing the buttons on the door...so I had to manually lock the car, the remote still works of course, but because the electric is off on my car, the remote is no use, so to get back in I have to manually unlock using the key hole! Can anyone tell me what this could be? I'm soo sick of this battery crap! this is a 99 GS300 with 157k miles...one owner. (well my mom is the original owner, and I have been driving it for 2 years now), hopefully someone can provide some insight on what it could possibly be!
I'm worried this is more then a battery, because even with a dead battery, from what I've experienced the electrical panel still comes on, and I'm still able to lock the car with the key remote, and execute the break lights.
Thanks yall!
03-22-12, 10:27 PM
#45
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Hey guys... I stilll have not figured out the problem with my car.... Something is causing the 40a main fuse to blow.... Anyone have similar issues? Please chime in.... At this point I'm about to take it to the stealership b/c I'm sick of driving my work truck around an the Supra needs a clutch!!
Thanks
Thanks