80k tune up???
#1
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Location: California
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80k tune up???
does anyone know any good mechanic shop out in california (626) that maybe specializes in lowered gs's, ? my car just reached 80k miles, btw does anyone know how much is the 80k mile tune up for 99 gs400?
#7
Lexus Fanatic
iTrader: (182)
well by major i mean like major parts needed....90k maintenance (for the gs430, which will be almost exactly what his gs400 uses) is
135030F010-IDLER SUB-ASSY
135050F010-IDLER SUB-ASSY
1356809070-BELT, TIMING
161005927583-PUMP ASSY, WATER
1632562010-GASKET, WATER INLET
1780150060-ELEMENT SUB-ASSY, AI
4333039535-JOINT ASSY, LWR BALL
4334039415-JOINT ASSY, LWR BALL
4546059015-ROD ASSY, TIE
4547059015-ROD ASSY, TIE
87139YZZ01-ELEMENT, AIR REFINER
9043012027-GASKET,OIL PAN DRAIN
90915YZZD3-FILTER, OIL
9091602586-BELT, V-RIBBED
9091603100-THERMOSTAT
9676124019-RING
and then all the fluids they will be using so IMHO this is on of the most major tune ups (although you mentioned plugs in post # 2, i think plugs are on the 120k service not the 90k service)
im not trying to call you out (although it feels like that was your intention to my response, if that wasnt your intentions them im sorry but its hard to "read" peoples tones on the internet) it is hard to take this response seriously though...especially when the same member who is talking about how easy working on our cars is offering $ to diagnose a problem for them
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gs-...se-reward.html
if you know me or even read anything i normally write you will know i put alot of thought into this response before posting it since i didnt want you to feel like i was bashing you but somethings to work on, on our can CAN be a PITA to do especially for some people who arent mechanically inclined
OP if u cant do this or dont trust anyone to do it or to help you do it i would suggest a independent Toyota mechanic as my local place wanted something in the range of $2500 WITH parts to do this service
135030F010-IDLER SUB-ASSY
135050F010-IDLER SUB-ASSY
1356809070-BELT, TIMING
161005927583-PUMP ASSY, WATER
1632562010-GASKET, WATER INLET
1780150060-ELEMENT SUB-ASSY, AI
4333039535-JOINT ASSY, LWR BALL
4334039415-JOINT ASSY, LWR BALL
4546059015-ROD ASSY, TIE
4547059015-ROD ASSY, TIE
87139YZZ01-ELEMENT, AIR REFINER
9043012027-GASKET,OIL PAN DRAIN
90915YZZD3-FILTER, OIL
9091602586-BELT, V-RIBBED
9091603100-THERMOSTAT
9676124019-RING
and then all the fluids they will be using so IMHO this is on of the most major tune ups (although you mentioned plugs in post # 2, i think plugs are on the 120k service not the 90k service)
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gs-...se-reward.html
if you know me or even read anything i normally write you will know i put alot of thought into this response before posting it since i didnt want you to feel like i was bashing you but somethings to work on, on our can CAN be a PITA to do especially for some people who arent mechanically inclined
OP if u cant do this or dont trust anyone to do it or to help you do it i would suggest a independent Toyota mechanic as my local place wanted something in the range of $2500 WITH parts to do this service
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#8
well by major i mean like major parts needed....90k maintenance (for the gs430, which will be almost exactly what his gs400 uses) is
135030F010-IDLER SUB-ASSY
135050F010-IDLER SUB-ASSY
1356809070-BELT, TIMING
161005927583-PUMP ASSY, WATER
1632562010-GASKET, WATER INLET
1780150060-ELEMENT SUB-ASSY, AI
4333039535-JOINT ASSY, LWR BALL
4334039415-JOINT ASSY, LWR BALL
4546059015-ROD ASSY, TIE
4547059015-ROD ASSY, TIE
87139YZZ01-ELEMENT, AIR REFINER
9043012027-GASKET,OIL PAN DRAIN
90915YZZD3-FILTER, OIL
9091602586-BELT, V-RIBBED
9091603100-THERMOSTAT
9676124019-RING
and then all the fluids they will be using so IMHO this is on of the most major tune ups (although you mentioned plugs in post # 2, i think plugs are on the 120k service not the 90k service)
im not trying to call you out (although it feels like that was your intention to my response, if that wasnt your intentions them im sorry but its hard to "read" peoples tones on the internet) it is hard to take this response seriously though...especially when the same member who is talking about how easy working on our cars is offering $ to diagnose a problem for them
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gs-...se-reward.html
if you know me or even read anything i normally write you will know i put alot of thought into this response before posting it since i didnt want you to feel like i was bashing you but somethings to work on, on our can CAN be a PITA to do especially for some people who arent mechanically inclined
OP if u cant do this or dont trust anyone to do it or to help you do it i would suggest a independent Toyota mechanic as my local place wanted something in the range of $2500 WITH parts to do this service
135030F010-IDLER SUB-ASSY
135050F010-IDLER SUB-ASSY
1356809070-BELT, TIMING
161005927583-PUMP ASSY, WATER
1632562010-GASKET, WATER INLET
1780150060-ELEMENT SUB-ASSY, AI
4333039535-JOINT ASSY, LWR BALL
4334039415-JOINT ASSY, LWR BALL
4546059015-ROD ASSY, TIE
4547059015-ROD ASSY, TIE
87139YZZ01-ELEMENT, AIR REFINER
9043012027-GASKET,OIL PAN DRAIN
90915YZZD3-FILTER, OIL
9091602586-BELT, V-RIBBED
9091603100-THERMOSTAT
9676124019-RING
and then all the fluids they will be using so IMHO this is on of the most major tune ups (although you mentioned plugs in post # 2, i think plugs are on the 120k service not the 90k service)
im not trying to call you out (although it feels like that was your intention to my response, if that wasnt your intentions them im sorry but its hard to "read" peoples tones on the internet) it is hard to take this response seriously though...especially when the same member who is talking about how easy working on our cars is offering $ to diagnose a problem for them
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gs-...se-reward.html
if you know me or even read anything i normally write you will know i put alot of thought into this response before posting it since i didnt want you to feel like i was bashing you but somethings to work on, on our can CAN be a PITA to do especially for some people who arent mechanically inclined
OP if u cant do this or dont trust anyone to do it or to help you do it i would suggest a independent Toyota mechanic as my local place wanted something in the range of $2500 WITH parts to do this service
#13
Under heavy operating conditions (most of us are not) then I believe it says check/change every 15k or 30k miles? (check yourself).
The maintenance of these 2 items I would approach differently.
1) Transmission, this is as easy as an oil change as a drain/fill, and Toyota T-IV fluid is relatively cheap if you buy it by the case from Toyota. However with a drain fill, since you only replace perhaps 20% of the fluid, so to change it all you have to do this procedure multiple times.
Really you should try to examine the fluid to see if there are signs it needs to be changed before deciding the course of action (color/smell/any visible particles)
There are multiple threads and discussions on this whether to flush or just drain/fill.
Most people who DIY this job, and their fluid is in OK but maybe not perfect condition, just do a drain/fill periodically, perhaps every other oil change as minimal labor until they get through the case of fluid they purchased. Then maybe more infrequent drain/fills after that. There are more complicated procedures to disconnect lines to get more out per procedure, but you trade off more time/effort/skill for the results.
If you pay for this as a mechanic's service, then you should probably not follow this strategy as it is not cost effective. Shops often charge more than an Oil change even though it is just as simple. Expect like $50 for the transmission drain/fill versus $30 for an oil change. Paying $50 for a trans. drain/fill is overpriced, paying the $8 for the fluid while you are doing an oil change yourself is more like it.
2) Differential.
This is also theoretically as easy as the trans but the gear oil makes a mess. So people who've DIYed this sometimes say next time I'll let the shop do it, especially since you don't need to switch this that often, and a drain/fill replaces just about all of it. Most shops should charge about $50 for this job too.
For this job, I would suggest you can ask for and pay the extra $10-$20 for the best high end synthetic fluid that outperforms the original fluid from 1998 (or bring in your own). Then, you can get this job done once and not worry about for a long time. Fluid is cheap compared to having to pay labor for another jbo. For example, Amsoil advertises if you switch to their synthetic diff fluid, under normal operating conditions you won't need to change for 100k miles.
If you are more of a conservative, and don't mind overmaintaining a bit, then just get it done same time as your brake fluid 30k/3years.
Last edited by raytseng; 11-22-11 at 08:10 PM.
#14
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The manual doesn't specify when it is required under normal use, so theoretically "forever" under light conditions
Under heavy operating conditions (most of us are not) then I believe it says check/change every 15k or 30k miles? (check yourself).
The maintenance of these 2 items I would approach differently.
1) Transmission, this is as easy as an oil change as a drain/fill, and Toyota T-IV fluid is relatively cheap if you buy it by the case from Toyota. However with a drain fill, since you only replace perhaps 20% of the fluid, so to change it all you have to do this procedure multiple times.
Really you should try to examine the fluid to see if there are signs it needs to be changed before deciding the course of action (color/smell/any visible particles)
There are multiple threads and discussions on this whether to flush or just drain/fill.
Most people who DIY this job, and their fluid is in OK but maybe not perfect condition, just do a drain/fill periodically, perhaps every other oil change as minimal labor until they get through the case of fluid they purchased. Then maybe more infrequent drain/fills after that. There are more complicated procedures to disconnect lines to get more out per procedure, but you trade off more time/effort/skill for the results.
If you pay for this as a mechanic's service, then you should probably not follow this strategy as it is not cost effective. Shops often charge more than an Oil change even though it is just as simple. Expect like $50 for the transmission drain/fill versus $30 for an oil change. Paying $50 for a trans. drain/fill is overpriced, paying the $8 for the fluid while you are doing an oil change yourself is more like it.
2) Differential.
This is also theoretically as easy as the trans but the gear oil makes a mess. So people who've DIYed this sometimes say next time I'll let the shop do it, especially since you don't need to switch this that often, and a drain/fill replaces just about all of it. Most shops should charge about $50 for this job too.
For this job, I would suggest you can ask for and pay the extra $10-$20 for the best high end synthetic fluid that outperforms the original fluid from 1998 (or bring in your own). Then, you can get this job done once and not worry about for a long time. Fluid is cheap compared to having to pay labor for another jbo. For example, Amsoil advertises if you switch to their synthetic diff fluid, under normal operating conditions you won't need to change for 100k miles.
If you are more of a conservative, and don't mind overmaintaining a bit, then just get it done same time as your brake fluid 30k/3years.
Under heavy operating conditions (most of us are not) then I believe it says check/change every 15k or 30k miles? (check yourself).
The maintenance of these 2 items I would approach differently.
1) Transmission, this is as easy as an oil change as a drain/fill, and Toyota T-IV fluid is relatively cheap if you buy it by the case from Toyota. However with a drain fill, since you only replace perhaps 20% of the fluid, so to change it all you have to do this procedure multiple times.
Really you should try to examine the fluid to see if there are signs it needs to be changed before deciding the course of action (color/smell/any visible particles)
There are multiple threads and discussions on this whether to flush or just drain/fill.
Most people who DIY this job, and their fluid is in OK but maybe not perfect condition, just do a drain/fill periodically, perhaps every other oil change as minimal labor until they get through the case of fluid they purchased. Then maybe more infrequent drain/fills after that. There are more complicated procedures to disconnect lines to get more out per procedure, but you trade off more time/effort/skill for the results.
If you pay for this as a mechanic's service, then you should probably not follow this strategy as it is not cost effective. Shops often charge more than an Oil change even though it is just as simple. Expect like $50 for the transmission drain/fill versus $30 for an oil change. Paying $50 for a trans. drain/fill is overpriced, paying the $8 for the fluid while you are doing an oil change yourself is more like it.
2) Differential.
This is also theoretically as easy as the trans but the gear oil makes a mess. So people who've DIYed this sometimes say next time I'll let the shop do it, especially since you don't need to switch this that often, and a drain/fill replaces just about all of it. Most shops should charge about $50 for this job too.
For this job, I would suggest you can ask for and pay the extra $10-$20 for the best high end synthetic fluid that outperforms the original fluid from 1998 (or bring in your own). Then, you can get this job done once and not worry about for a long time. Fluid is cheap compared to having to pay labor for another jbo. For example, Amsoil advertises if you switch to their synthetic diff fluid, under normal operating conditions you won't need to change for 100k miles.
If you are more of a conservative, and don't mind overmaintaining a bit, then just get it done same time as your brake fluid 30k/3years.
thanks alot ray for your info,. my car has 83k miles alot of ppl told me that i should just wait until the 90k miles service ,. ,.
#15
Lexus Champion
iTrader: (27)
I would never do a timing belt job. I've done other stuff like suspension,radiator, 5spd swap, basic stuff sparkplugs oil changes pads, bbk upgrade. But I would never touch a timing belt its seems waay to complicated mess up on one spot and your motor might be done.
You dont even need to change the transmission fluid yet. I believe on my SC it was never changed not even up to 190k. It still ran fine and everything, but if you want to just drain and refill do not flush it. Flushing could harm the transmission
You dont even need to change the transmission fluid yet. I believe on my SC it was never changed not even up to 190k. It still ran fine and everything, but if you want to just drain and refill do not flush it. Flushing could harm the transmission
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