GS - 2nd Gen (1998-2005) Discussion about the second generation GS300, GS400 and GS430 (1998 - 2005)

High Mileage Club

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Old 10-09-15, 11:04 AM
  #106  
pukujuhla
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Originally Posted by ilcitdream
$1500 for what?
That would be a Timing Belt/Water pump service mainly. But it would also be an O2 sensor and Healight leveling sensor, plus an exhaust leak repair/replace. Transmission fluid change as well - 2-3 shift is hard first time in the morning - after that it's fine.
Old 10-09-15, 02:13 PM
  #107  
ctjameson
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Originally Posted by pukujuhla
That would be a Timing Belt/Water pump service mainly. But it would also be an O2 sensor and Healight leveling sensor, plus an exhaust leak repair/replace. Transmission fluid change as well - 2-3 shift is hard first time in the morning - after that it's fine.
Here's the way I see it. Can you go right now and buy a car for $1500 that will be as nice and last as long as the GS will after the maintenance? If the answer is yes, stop spending money on it. But I'm willing to bet you can't.
Old 10-10-15, 09:36 PM
  #108  
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Originally Posted by BayAreaLex
Nice replies guys, keep them coming!

I'm curious if some of you high mileage guys ever replaced your transmission fluid. I always hear mixed opinions about whether this should be done or not.

Also, I'm particularly interested if anyone snapped a timing belt or needed a transmission replacement? In all my years, I've only heard of one 2GS snapping a timing belt. Transmission replacements are extremely rare on these cars as well. I recall lots of 200K mile examples with the stock timing belt however.
Change oil (mobil 1 syn) every 6k, drain and fill tranny every other oil change.
Old 10-11-15, 05:30 AM
  #109  
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Weird thought or not but I really don't think 219k on a 18 year old car is all that 'high'.
Old 10-13-15, 05:27 PM
  #110  
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I'd like to point out that when these cars were built, synthetic oil was not common place and is definitely not what was recommended for the engine at that time. You don't specify if your running full synthetic or a synthetic blend. The blend would be ok, but DO NOT use full synthetic oil, especially not on a high mileage engine. Even more important, if the car has not had synthetic oil since birth, don't use it. Newer engines, designed with synthetic lubrication in mind, have some minor differences from that of their older versions. Mainly in the bearing tolerances. Engines designed to use synthetic have much tighter tolerances and therefor require oil with smaller particles, which is the biggest difference in standard vs synthetic oil. Using synthetic in an engine designed to use conventional oil can have less than desirable results. For high mileage engines designed for conventional oil, I would use the same oil that was recommended from the factory with a lucas oil additive.
Old 10-14-15, 07:07 AM
  #111  
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Originally Posted by Gdwrench35
I'd like to point out that when these cars were built, synthetic oil was not common place and is definitely not what was recommended for the engine at that time. You don't specify if your running full synthetic or a synthetic blend. The blend would be ok, but DO NOT use full synthetic oil, especially not on a high mileage engine. Even more important, if the car has not had synthetic oil since birth, don't use it. Newer engines, designed with synthetic lubrication in mind, have some minor differences from that of their older versions. Mainly in the bearing tolerances. Engines designed to use synthetic have much tighter tolerances and therefor require oil with smaller particles, which is the biggest difference in standard vs synthetic oil. Using synthetic in an engine designed to use conventional oil can have less than desirable results. For high mileage engines designed for conventional oil, I would use the same oil that was recommended from the factory with a lucas oil additive.
I agree. I've got 278K on my GS400 and I use a medium quality/"what ever's on sale" grade of conventional oil. And my leaky oil pan means I'm always adding fresh oil (lol).
I think simply changing your oil regularly is all that really matters; anything more is just "feel good" stuff.
Old 10-14-15, 09:46 AM
  #112  
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I feel like I I have always been in the minority in that I always believed that the oil filter was more important than the oil
Old 10-14-15, 04:20 PM
  #113  
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I feel like I I have always been in the minority in that I always believed that the oil filter was more important than the oil
There is a reason your in the minority on that notion. Try cutting an oil filter open after 3000 miles of use and see whats in there. I can tell you from experience that the answer is ..............NOTHING. Very little debris and particles ever accumulate in the filter. Most of that stuff builds up in the bottom of the pan. I'm not saying that an oil filter isn't important, just that it does very little in the way of filtering. More of a 'feel good' measure than anything. Change the oil frequently, cheap oil, good oil, whatever. Change it A LOT. Oil is cheaper than engines.

If you still think that the filter is more important than the oil, try running your car with just the filter but no oil. I don't recommend it, but the results would definitely prove my point.
Old 10-16-15, 07:10 PM
  #114  
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$3,000 paid three months ago for a 2000 gs400 with 172,4XX. Passing 177,777 tomorrow. Consistently running 14.8's at the local dragway bone stock. still redlines like a monster.
Old 10-16-15, 10:13 PM
  #115  
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Originally Posted by Gdwrench35
I'd like to point out that when these cars were built, synthetic oil was not common place and is definitely not what was recommended for the engine at that time. You don't specify if your running full synthetic or a synthetic blend. The blend would be ok, but DO NOT use full synthetic oil, especially not on a high mileage engine. Even more important, if the car has not had synthetic oil since birth, don't use it. Newer engines, designed with synthetic lubrication in mind, have some minor differences from that of their older versions. Mainly in the bearing tolerances. Engines designed to use synthetic have much tighter tolerances and therefor require oil with smaller particles, which is the biggest difference in standard vs synthetic oil. Using synthetic in an engine designed to use conventional oil can have less than desirable results. For high mileage engines designed for conventional oil, I would use the same oil that was recommended from the factory with a lucas oil additive.
This is totally a myth. The engine does not know if the 10w-30 oil you are using is a synthetic or non synthetic oil.
Old 10-17-15, 07:09 AM
  #116  
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It most definitely does know. If your so inclined, hook up a manual oil pressure gauge to your head and compare the different readings with the correct (conventional) and incorrect (synthetic) oils. There is a huge difference. Educate yourself or damage your engine prematurely, your choice.
Old 10-18-15, 01:54 PM
  #117  
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2002 GS300, bought it with 79,000 mi back in 2010. Fast forward almost 6 years later, I have 170,000 mi. No problems with engine or tranny. Problems with small things. She's a keeper.
Old 10-19-15, 02:04 PM
  #118  
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Originally Posted by Gdwrench35
It most definitely does know. If your so inclined, hook up a manual oil pressure gauge to your head and compare the different readings with the correct (conventional) and incorrect (synthetic) oils. There is a huge difference. Educate yourself or damage your engine prematurely, your choice.
I have done so with many marine engines that were in your words "designed" for non-synthetic oil. Not only is the pressure reading the same when engine is cold but maintains full oil pressures as the engine heats up and as the number of hours on the oil increases.

Viscosity is Viscosity no matter if the oil is synthetic or non-synthetic.
http://www.valvoline.com/auto-resour...yths-synthetic
Just like conventional motor oil, synthetic oils have a specific viscosity grade
Bottom line, synthetic oil holds the correct viscosity a lot longer than non syn oil does over temp and age.

I have always run my GS300 on synthetic oil starting with the very first oil change. I now have 185,000 miles on it.

I think you are the one that needs to educate yourself and not create or perpetuate myths.

Last edited by bruceb58; 10-19-15 at 02:20 PM.
Old 10-19-15, 04:55 PM
  #119  
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I have done so with many marine engines that were in your words "designed" for non-synthetic oil. Not only is the pressure reading the same when engine is cold but maintains full oil pressures as the engine heats up and as the number of hours on the oil increases.
Yeah, and Obama loves America. I don't believe for a second that you have done this. Why?? Because I have. I've been involved in the automotive industry for 25 years or better. I work closely with the people who make this stuff. I can assure you that your blanket statement "viscosity is viscosity" is inaccurate. I've seen the proof. I have enough badges and certificates to prove I've been educated on the matter. The only one I see blowing smoke is you but to each their own.
Old 10-19-15, 11:37 PM
  #120  
bruceb58
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I have owned 6 boats and currently own 2. Synthetic oil has been around a lot longer than these engines have.

Did you even read the link I posted. You know more that an oil manufacturer? The quote I put down was from the link

Go post some links that prove what you think you believe...you won't find any.

I know I am not going to change your mind. This is for others not to believe that myth.

Last edited by bruceb58; 10-20-15 at 08:01 AM.


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