want to run OEm tweeter with new Coaxials
08-04-11, 04:46 PM
#1
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want to run OEm tweeter with new Coaxials
I have replaced the entire sound system in my GS. However when I replaced the original Pioneer front speaker it took away the tweeter. I called Crutchfield they recommended that I did not connect the factory tweeter. Now the sound comes from the knee. I want to get the Tweeters to come back up. Anyone have a suggestion? Can I run the tweeters in parallel with coaxial w/o hurting my Sony headunit?
08-05-11, 12:06 AM
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First off, you shouldn't have went cheap and gotten yourself component speakers for the front, they com with a tweeter. All you have to do is bridge the tweeter with the door speaker.
08-05-11, 09:44 AM
#6
A capacitor won't help you do this. A cap is more like a power reservoir that feeds a power hungry speaker like a subwoofer on a hard bass hit.
You need a high pass signal filter to feed your OEM tweeter just the high signals or your tweeter will tear itself apart trying to reproduce mids/lows (which it is not designed to do) furthermore you have to check your head unit if it can push the added resistance (Ohms) you're adding to that channel.
Engineers have already done this for you when you get a set of component speakers. i.e. http://www.polkaudio.com/caraudio/products/db5251/
You need a high pass signal filter to feed your OEM tweeter just the high signals or your tweeter will tear itself apart trying to reproduce mids/lows (which it is not designed to do) furthermore you have to check your head unit if it can push the added resistance (Ohms) you're adding to that channel.
Engineers have already done this for you when you get a set of component speakers. i.e. http://www.polkaudio.com/caraudio/products/db5251/
08-05-11, 12:10 PM
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A capacitor won't help you do this. A cap is more like a power reservoir that feeds a power hungry speaker like a subwoofer on a hard bass hit.
You need a high pass signal filter to feed your OEM tweeter just the high signals or your tweeter will tear itself apart trying to reproduce mids/lows (which it is not designed to do) furthermore you have to check your head unit if it can push the added resistance (Ohms) you're adding to that channel.
You need a high pass signal filter to feed your OEM tweeter just the high signals or your tweeter will tear itself apart trying to reproduce mids/lows (which it is not designed to do) furthermore you have to check your head unit if it can push the added resistance (Ohms) you're adding to that channel.
Easiest way I see to add the tweet back in safely is to series it to the speaker you have. If you want to eliminate the high end from coming from your knee, you could also snip the leads to the coax tweet and run a short line up from those leads to the factory tweet, but you risk the leads slapping against the cone (this is where a wire tie helps...just tie them to the bridge and route away from the cone
).To do series, just run one wire from the negative of the coax up to the positive of the factory tweeter. Run the negative side off the tweeter to the negative side of the speaker wire from the deck. DO NOT HOOK UP THE NEGATIVE FROM THE COAX TO THE DECK. This puts the speakers in series, and the deck will certainly run that load.
Big Mack
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08-05-11, 01:10 PM
#8
Caps are also used to create high pass filters, mang. Crossovers include caps and inductors to create both the high pass and low pass filtering you find.
Easiest way I see to add the tweet back in safely is to series it to the speaker you have. If you want to eliminate the high end from coming from your knee, you could also snip the leads to the coax tweet and run a short line up from those leads to the factory tweet, but you risk the leads slapping against the cone (this is where a wire tie helps...just tie them to the bridge and route away from the cone ).
To do series, just run one wire from the negative of the coax up to the positive of the factory tweeter. Run the negative side off the tweeter to the negative side of the speaker wire from the deck. DO NOT HOOK UP THE NEGATIVE FROM THE COAX TO THE DECK. This puts the speakers in series, and the deck will certainly run that load.
Big Mack
Easiest way I see to add the tweet back in safely is to series it to the speaker you have. If you want to eliminate the high end from coming from your knee, you could also snip the leads to the coax tweet and run a short line up from those leads to the factory tweet, but you risk the leads slapping against the cone (this is where a wire tie helps...just tie them to the bridge and route away from the cone
).To do series, just run one wire from the negative of the coax up to the positive of the factory tweeter. Run the negative side off the tweeter to the negative side of the speaker wire from the deck. DO NOT HOOK UP THE NEGATIVE FROM THE COAX TO THE DECK. This puts the speakers in series, and the deck will certainly run that load.
Big Mack
08-05-11, 06:15 PM
#10
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Thanks BIG Mack. In some of the other forums they say I can run it in parallel intead of series. Such small wattage used by tweeter it is not harmful to deck or speaker. What do you think. BTW where can I pick up a capacitor?
08-05-11, 06:24 PM
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Big Mack
08-05-11, 06:27 PM
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PS - I usually err on the side of caution when using deck power, too. Since tweets can scream on 1W, why risk a blown IC? It's simply not worth it to me. Plus, series wiring isn't any more challenging than parallel if you pay attention to it. I think some people just want the super easy way, consequences be damned. I'd rather do it once and know it's not coming apart.
Big Mack
Big Mack
08-05-11, 07:37 PM
#13
The reason why people say don't run them in parallel is because when you add another load in parallel, amps (current) goes up and resistance goes down. Too much current will cause too much heat. And the load with the least resistance which is the last load (the tweeters) will blow. So it's wise to hook them up in series are Big Mack mentioned.
08-05-11, 08:34 PM
#14
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Thanks Big Mack and GS4fiend. Will go out to get a cap tomorrow and try. I really like the new coaxials but w/o the tweeters I lost the soundstage. Next time I get another Lexus will look for a NAK or Mark LEv system.
