want to run OEm tweeter with new Coaxials
08-13-11, 06:41 AM
#17
Yes, it would lower the power...
Couple other things...
1) you can run tweeters in parallel even off of a headunit - even though the impedance is low, with higher frequencies, it simply won't matter...
2) you don't want to run the two tweeters in series or parallel after the crossover, as it will change the impedance presented to the crossover making it not present the same frequencies to the tweeters... (I'm not going to do the math right now, but impedance is a factor when choosing cap/coil values when building a passive crossover)
3) even if you did run the two tweeters in series, although it would technically lower the power presented to the speakers, overall loudness should remain similar - wanna know why? general rule is that when you double cone area, you add 3 db, or when you double power, you add 3 db. Obviously, the opposite is true - half the power, subtract 3 db... in general, running two speakers in series, assuming they are both 4 ohm nominal speakers, you are increasing the resistance presented to the head unit, which it would now see as 8 ohms. This will decrease its output wattage to the high frequencies by half, but because we doubled cone area, it cancels itself out.
4) One last consideration - the factory tweeters and the aftermarket ones in the coaxial speakers are most likely quite dissimilar - may even have different nominal resistances, causing some weird sound distribution between the two...
You have a couple real feasible options that I would consider... Build or buy external passive crossovers, disconnect the tweeter in the coaxials you just purchased and run the low output of your new crossover to the coaxials, while running the high output to the stock tweeters. The other option would be to simply sell your coaxials and purchase a matched component set which will come with matched tweeters and crossovers, not to mention be quite a bit higher quality in general than most coaxials...
Couple things before taking on either of these - 1) need to find out nominal resistance of stock tweeter - I've seen them everywhere from 2 to 8 ohms, yes, even in car audio applications and 2) would need to find out what aftermarket tweeters would fit in the factory location cleanly... I'm sure the info is out there, but I don't have a clue...
Couple other things...
1) you can run tweeters in parallel even off of a headunit - even though the impedance is low, with higher frequencies, it simply won't matter...
2) you don't want to run the two tweeters in series or parallel after the crossover, as it will change the impedance presented to the crossover making it not present the same frequencies to the tweeters... (I'm not going to do the math right now, but impedance is a factor when choosing cap/coil values when building a passive crossover)
3) even if you did run the two tweeters in series, although it would technically lower the power presented to the speakers, overall loudness should remain similar - wanna know why? general rule is that when you double cone area, you add 3 db, or when you double power, you add 3 db. Obviously, the opposite is true - half the power, subtract 3 db... in general, running two speakers in series, assuming they are both 4 ohm nominal speakers, you are increasing the resistance presented to the head unit, which it would now see as 8 ohms. This will decrease its output wattage to the high frequencies by half, but because we doubled cone area, it cancels itself out.
4) One last consideration - the factory tweeters and the aftermarket ones in the coaxial speakers are most likely quite dissimilar - may even have different nominal resistances, causing some weird sound distribution between the two...
You have a couple real feasible options that I would consider... Build or buy external passive crossovers, disconnect the tweeter in the coaxials you just purchased and run the low output of your new crossover to the coaxials, while running the high output to the stock tweeters. The other option would be to simply sell your coaxials and purchase a matched component set which will come with matched tweeters and crossovers, not to mention be quite a bit higher quality in general than most coaxials...
Couple things before taking on either of these - 1) need to find out nominal resistance of stock tweeter - I've seen them everywhere from 2 to 8 ohms, yes, even in car audio applications and 2) would need to find out what aftermarket tweeters would fit in the factory location cleanly... I'm sure the info is out there, but I don't have a clue...
08-22-11, 07:00 AM
#19
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Thanks guys. I have learned a lot. I will work on car this week. Will keep you all posted. These little speakers from Kicker really sound great. Just my soundstage is screwed up.
09-14-11, 11:30 PM
#20
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Hi Guys
I finally took BIG MAcks Advice. I ran the kicker Coaxials and ran them in series with the factory tweeters. The soundstage is back. However the power is substantially less, the bass is no longer existing. I ran a capacitor to the + line. Could this be the cause? Should I remove the capacitor? Should I run it in Parallel? Please advise. Any Sugestions?
I finally took BIG MAcks Advice. I ran the kicker Coaxials and ran them in series with the factory tweeters. The soundstage is back. However the power is substantially less, the bass is no longer existing. I ran a capacitor to the + line. Could this be the cause? Should I remove the capacitor? Should I run it in Parallel? Please advise. Any Sugestions?
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