alternator broke of engine block!
07-28-11, 01:22 PM
#19
You can always have a custom plate fabricated to hold the alternator in place. They're usually about $150 to get done. They find alternate mounting bolts for the plate, then mount the alternator to the plate. Its the same concept at installing a CSC charger on. I didnt think about that till now. Talk to Glenn (RMMGS4) He has a CSC on his wife's IS, you might be able to use the same plate with different mounting holes for the alternator to mount on. I'm using a bracket for my CSC on my drag car and its darn firm 
Its kind of like this:
^^ that bracket is for a dual alternator set up, but its the same concept. That kit has a different belt cause with a second alternator, it needs a bigger belt. In your case, all you would probably need is the bracket. Either way, thats a very good option, and probably the only safe one.
Its kind of like this:
^^ that bracket is for a dual alternator set up, but its the same concept. That kit has a different belt cause with a second alternator, it needs a bigger belt. In your case, all you would probably need is the bracket. Either way, thats a very good option, and probably the only safe one.
07-28-11, 01:33 PM
#20
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Thread Starter
You can always have a custom plate fabricated to hold the alternator in place. They're usually about $150 to get done. They find alternate mounting bolts for the plate, then mount the alternator to the plate. Its the same concept at installing a CSC charger on. I didnt think about that till now. Talk to Glenn (RMMGS4) He has a CSC on his wife's IS, you might be able to use the same plate with different mounting holes for the alternator to mount on. I'm using a bracket for my CSC on my drag car and its darn firm
Its kind of like this:
^^ that bracket is for a dual alternator set up, but its the same concept. That kit has a different belt cause with a second alternator, it needs a bigger belt. In your case, all you would probably need is the bracket. Either way, thats a very good option, and probably the only safe one.
Its kind of like this:
^^ that bracket is for a dual alternator set up, but its the same concept. That kit has a different belt cause with a second alternator, it needs a bigger belt. In your case, all you would probably need is the bracket. Either way, thats a very good option, and probably the only safe one.
07-28-11, 01:47 PM
#21
That top ear is aluminum because it broke off the edge of the water pump. The lower one is part of the cast iron block.
And Mr Jokester is correct, you could fab a bracket out of plate steel. This is done all the time to relocate accessories and for big car stereos with massive or multiple alternators on the engine. Pulley alignment is critical as to not wear the belts prematurely..
It also kinda looks like there is a bit of corrosion on that lower bolt, I would check and make sure your water pump hasn't been leaking since the pump bleed hose is directly overtop that mounting bolt and will drip once the seal on the pump impeller goes bad. Problly been dripping for a while, gonna need a new water pump too.
And Mr Jokester is correct, you could fab a bracket out of plate steel. This is done all the time to relocate accessories and for big car stereos with massive or multiple alternators on the engine. Pulley alignment is critical as to not wear the belts prematurely..
It also kinda looks like there is a bit of corrosion on that lower bolt, I would check and make sure your water pump hasn't been leaking since the pump bleed hose is directly overtop that mounting bolt and will drip once the seal on the pump impeller goes bad. Problly been dripping for a while, gonna need a new water pump too.
Last edited by 99 GS3; 07-28-11 at 01:53 PM.
07-28-11, 02:20 PM
#22
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Thread Starter
That top ear is aluminum because it broke off the edge of the water pump. The lower one is part of the cast iron block.
And Mr Jokester is correct, you could fab a bracket out of plate steel. This is done all the time to relocate accessories and for big car stereos with massive or multiple alternators on the engine. Pulley alignment is critical as to not wear the belts prematurely..
It also kinda looks like there is a bit of corrosion on that lower bolt, I would check and make sure your water pump hasn't been leaking since the pump bleed hose is directly overtop that mounting bolt and will drip once the seal on the pump impeller goes bad. Problly been dripping for a while, gonna need a new water pump too.
And Mr Jokester is correct, you could fab a bracket out of plate steel. This is done all the time to relocate accessories and for big car stereos with massive or multiple alternators on the engine. Pulley alignment is critical as to not wear the belts prematurely..
It also kinda looks like there is a bit of corrosion on that lower bolt, I would check and make sure your water pump hasn't been leaking since the pump bleed hose is directly overtop that mounting bolt and will drip once the seal on the pump impeller goes bad. Problly been dripping for a while, gonna need a new water pump too.
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wink571 (12-06-21)
07-28-11, 02:33 PM
#23
you can get a 'valucraft' for like $70 bucks LoL. But if you have to change it, might as well do the whole timing chain service (which includes the waterpump) and in case you dont know, timing chain is a must at 90k. If you dont know if its been done, best to get it done right now since you may have to do the pump anyways.
07-28-11, 02:37 PM
#24
Water pumps aren't to bad, a little over $100, get an oem one for sure. Some parts stores like Napa may sell Aisin pumps which is the same as the oem since Aisin make the toyota pump, so you might could get the same thing for a bit less. Watch out on prices, as some places only sell the front half of the pump and that's why it's alot less, if you get it from toyota it will be the complete pump ready to go on and include the o-ring that goes against the block as well.
Always do a thermostat when you do a pump, you will reuse the t-stat neck though as it doesn't come with the pump. And obviously inspect the radiator hoses for cracks while you have the sytem drained and apart.
Here is the pain in the a$$ part. The water pump connects to the block behind the lower timing cover. You have to remove the crank pulley to remove the cover and take off the timing belt. So If you haven't had a timing belt change, now is the time. As well as cam seals.
As for the bracket, it would be totally custom, and you would have to find someplace local to take the car and have it made to fit. You may have to go to a different belt length once the alt is remounted, not a big deal. You can get Gates belts in increments of 1/2".
Always do a thermostat when you do a pump, you will reuse the t-stat neck though as it doesn't come with the pump. And obviously inspect the radiator hoses for cracks while you have the sytem drained and apart.
Here is the pain in the a$$ part. The water pump connects to the block behind the lower timing cover. You have to remove the crank pulley to remove the cover and take off the timing belt. So If you haven't had a timing belt change, now is the time. As well as cam seals.
As for the bracket, it would be totally custom, and you would have to find someplace local to take the car and have it made to fit. You may have to go to a different belt length once the alt is remounted, not a big deal. You can get Gates belts in increments of 1/2".
05-21-19, 08:28 AM
#25
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Alternator
My alternator broke off my block. But I had 290,000 mi on the car. My mechanic and welder told exactly the same as you were told. I had a good ride and got my money’s worth so I bought another IS 300. I bought a new one. It’s a lot of money but I am hoping it will last as long.
So the wife was driving my 01 gs 300 when she said the wheel locked up, the car started overheating, and battery light came one. she immediately pulled over. I had the car towed to my mechanic. He checked it out and said the alternator broke off the engine block. He showed it to me and it was broke. Has anyone heard of this before?
The only options he suggested was to weld it back on and hope i dont get any issues or get a new engine. Talked to the welding guy and he said he didnt want to take any chances with the welding. Didnt wanna be liable. So what do yall suggest? Should I just sell it for what i can get or try to get it fixed?
Car has 160k and the engine had 110k. Car is in great shape overall.
Thanks for your feedback.
The only options he suggested was to weld it back on and hope i dont get any issues or get a new engine. Talked to the welding guy and he said he didnt want to take any chances with the welding. Didnt wanna be liable. So what do yall suggest? Should I just sell it for what i can get or try to get it fixed?
Car has 160k and the engine had 110k. Car is in great shape overall.
Thanks for your feedback.
05-27-19, 02:00 PM
#26
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My alternator broke off my block. But I had 290,000 mi on the car. My mechanic and welder told exactly the same as you were told. I had a good ride and got my money’s worth so I bought another IS 300. I bought a new one. It’s a lot of money but I am hoping it will last as long.
07-12-20, 01:46 PM
#27
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2020 is300 2005 SAME PROBLEM HELP
Hey Can I get an update on this?
I just got the same problem yesterday and I would like a follow up on how you fixed it or something.
Please anyone
T^T *tears of sadness*
I just got the same problem yesterday and I would like a follow up on how you fixed it or something.
Please anyone
T^T *tears of sadness*
07-13-20, 05:12 AM
#28
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Man sorry to hear. I ended up selling my GS. The new owner just did an engine swap. I doubt its possible to put the alt back on.
08-27-21, 09:50 PM
#29
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08-28-21, 07:40 AM
#30
Use the personal message system if you want to ask something personal of one specific member.
