johnnyho

I hope to have this done by tomorrow evening...if I can complete replacing the HVAC servo's under the other side of the dash tonight (fun!) :-).

I wanted to try to remove and replace my pic (above) with this one...but couldn't see how to do it.
Here it is again with some details of how I'm arriving at my guessed measurement of brush-length, if helpful.

marshun

i think i'd need more measurements than that. youll have to pull it out. looks like a simple clip in.

3/8ths roughly translates into 10mm. but i think something shorter would be a safer bet

my guess that its something like this and you could file it down to fit nicely around the armature.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Qty-10-Carbon-Brushes-5mm-x-6mm-x-14mm-for-Generic-Electric-Motor-/171582852203?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27f3228c6b
but i havent even looked on a parts site to see if theres a lexus direct replacement.

johnnyho

Sorry I've been quiet for some days....hope you had a nice New Year's, and will be a good 2015.

YOu are right Marshun...3/8ths too long, and I'm still sanding shorter to make best adjustment. Decided to switch to the idea of millimeters (duh) and looking like 8-9mm.

Should be able to tell you shortly.

Have taken lots of photos along the way, so hopefully will be informative.

Sorry this is taking me a bit....
I have several projects going on at once...tilt steering motor, HVAC servos, and removing the headlights to clean the lenses and replace a bulb. And its getting cold here...hunting down a place to recertify a propane tank so I can heat my small garage space (to clearcoat the headlights after sanding eg). And maybe make this under-dash work more bearable...I work outside, the garage is only storage.

Plus the holidays, plus job :-) I could end up crazy, with no friends/family left by the time I complete something - lol. But hoping for the best.

I truly appreciate you, and the people on here. Thank you.
I will get you the measurements and process I arrive at soon.

johnnyho

Sorry I haven't posted more on this in a bit.

I since sautered in the new brushes, sized and shaped to the originals, but the motor still doing the same thing. Worked some at first then stopped.

Don't know if:
*put too much new grease and is too much resistance
*Windings on the motor have a bad spot
*it was (or became) the ECU unit...I'm thinking is the big plastic piece right below the servo
*Something went wrong in my sautering

...you see where I'm going...still a lot of variables to consider.

I don't know if I can remove the motor again with the lead attached, and test if it is running without resistance of being in the in-column grease?

Or if should try disconnecting the battery and see if the ECU resets - did it cut off after a certain amount of resistance?

I didn't use light lithium grease like many, but the dealer recommended moly-d axle-grease consistency type.

I may take it to a business specializing in DC motors and see if they can test anything about the motor's windings or operations.

Anyway, still frustrated...sorry :-)

wbmx1981

I actually got the steeeing wheel where I needed/wanted it and I disengaged the tilt option by simply unplugging the connector. No more stuck in the up position for 2 days then out of nowhere, it works perfectly fine. I strongly believe the armature has a dead spot, worn bushes are a common problem with any armature mechanism. Besides I have motor mounts that I need to be focusing on.

marshun

Maybe using a multiple meter to see if the soldering made a good connection. Soldering braids is a bit tricky if you've never done it

johnnyho

Thanks WBMX! appreciate the vote on the "windings" of the armature. I do see the ECU (for the tilt/tele) still sold a lot, but not many reports of it...I do hear a "click" when toggling the switch.

I do have the wheel positioned where I want and motors off, as well. Just been determined to fix this while I have the dash opened up, and tired with driving it like that. :-)

Best of luck on the motor mounts! I need to do those too, and transmission mount - lol.
I understand the drivers side (motor) mount will require lifting the engine an inch or two with a floor jack to get at its bolts...from somewhere on here, if you need me to find the link/s.

johnnyho

Thanks Marshun!!

It was my first time soldering braids. The lead of the new (reformed) brushes was actually in a twist, and a little smaller in diameter.

I used the method of unraveling a little of the ends of each wire and pushing the frays together to interlock and smoothing that over. Then used plain 60/40 solder and some flux paste. The solder is somewhat shiny and you still see the texture of the wires - I understand is what is desired. I'll post a pic if its visible enough.

It does make the wire stiff where the solder is done, in my case I did in the center...but made sure there was enough forward and back movement possible for the brush to advance as it wears. I also tested the resistance between each "segment" of the armature (something I looked up somewhere) and all seemed good at the time. I had planned on posting all the pics and procedure, but it hasn't worked so there's not much point till I pin down what does.

By the way, you can't just de-sauter the end of the existing lead off the connections, it is attached by some kind of tac-weld or the like. You're left to have to solder to the braided wire.

Where you mention using an electrical meter to measure if the solder made a good connection...happen to know what to measure for and at which points? :-)

Thanks so much

KeyKeeper

brush could just be sticking in the plastic holder as well. I'd tap on the motor with the handle of a screwdriver while holding the switch....if it comes back to life, then the armature is out of the equation.

Sylvan

iTrader: (6)

Sorry to bump this from the dead but this is a helpful thread.

akafixture

Thought I would add my repair / fix. The hardest part for me was taking the dash pieces and steering wheel trim off! lol. The rest was a piece of cake.

Took the motor off, cleaned the gear, took appart the motor and cleaned the brushes and all the black bits that were all over the inside. cleaned everything really good and put some white lithium grease on the brass contacts and gear. Put the motor back on and tested it out before i put it all together and it works great. Very quiet and smooth. Again the last hardest part was putting all the panels back on.

So glad I did this. Nice to have it working again. Felt like a semi truck driver because the steering wheel would not come down, was all the way up!

For anyone going to do this, just take your time and read everything on this post. Its all there.

Thanks everyone for your input on this post.

Jonathan

Batavia

Hi Johnny Ho,

Has your GS came across these problems?

When I try to pull or push my steering wheel, there is a play on it. Anyone experienced this? Or is this common?


Another problem that I found is, when I try to rotate my steering column cover, the whole cover moves around freely which also include my blinker switch and wiper switch.


​​​​​​Any solution?
​​​​​​​