OZONE

Thanks CL for all the usefull info, its helped me out a bunch
****Please Help*****
Here's my problem. Ordered Lower ball joint and outer tie rod ends. When I tighten the tie rod end to spec(64 lbs) the king nut goes to far down on the threads for me to put a locking pin in(pin wont lock the nut). Is it ok to use washers to shim up that nut?
I've purchased from advance autoparts, auto zone, and Napa and all parts have come this way. Why are they different from the factory parts I have no clue,hopefully some will have some insight. Thanks!!!
1st pic with washers: I can put a lock pin in. 2nd pic shows king nut torque to spec an goes to far down on threads to put lock pin in and lock the nut.

OT0814

iTrader: (4)

so this isnt OEM? IDK doesnt look right to me with the washers.... GL with changing them out. made a world of a difference when i changed mine out

OZONE

They are not oem replacements. These are the Napa parts, both new and both same manufacture.

YviE

iTrader: (3)

I had the same problem with my lower ball joints, the nut went to far to use the lock pin. I torqued to spec and bent the lock pin in such a way it blocks the crown nut. Haven't had a problem doing it this way.

I would not use the washers.

HardParkin

Have you compared the castle nut & the ball joint to the original part you removed?

OZONE

It looks like this non-oem tie rod and lower ball joint were made this way. Why I have to put washers to lock it is the question. The after market tie rod is tapered but has a wider sleeve part about 3/4" down which is what the castle nut is torquing against. If that all make sense. I put one side all together(with washers)......the boot doesn't get pinched and everything is clear and not binding up.
I have it torqued to 64lbs and I cant see any reason why this would come apart or even wear on the parts prematurely. The only difference is the 2 washers in the whole equation.

lexybaby77

It doesn't look right. When I changed mine it was a perfect fit. But I used OEM parts. Might not be worth the trouble in the long run if you have to change it again after a few months (possibly a couple of years). Plus knowing there are extra washers on there that are not suppose to be there. If it was me I would just return those and buy OEM's. But that's just my opinion. Good luck!

starfyrels

iTrader: (2)

Not sure how you're having the same problem with 3 sets of aftermarkets.

How bad were your previous tie rods? It probably happened where the lower ball joints somehow got messed up, maybe tightened alot over time? Are your lower ball joints new or old?

I changed out my lower ball joints with aftermarkets and my outer tie rod, inners as well -- without any issue. If I were you I'd make sure its lbs-ft and not nm. Also you can get another locking nut and slap it on top then insert your cotter pins.

OZONE

The lower ball joint and the tie rod end are both new and both from the same manufacture. I put the old tie rod end and ball joint back together and they fit as they should torqued at 64lbs. Castle nut and hole for pin line up perfect. It seems clearly a after market design. soooo.......

sam430

iTrader: (10)

I would roll in it like that (w/washer)...but that's me. If you are scared about the washer, put another nut with the same height as the washer before the one with castle. make sure the washer is of higher grade.

OZONE

I used Grade 8 washers that fit over the tie rod with less than 1mm of play. Torqued down and was able to get a locking pin in with the castle nut.Had the car aligned. Everything is perfect as I can see, no binding no clearance issues. I will be the guinea pig for this I guess, and will report back in a year or so on this post.
Thanks for the advice everyone, CL Rocks!!!

BigGene

As long as you bought the Napa Chassis version you will be good. Their Master Ride line is no good though imho.

ISFPOWER

iTrader: (20)

bump.
i had this issue but left it as is with no type of washer. i used MOOG japan replacements. anyone have input?

HLamar

Stack some washers under the nut. TQ to spec, slide cotter in and bend and cut. Use steel washers. It's not going anywhere until the Chinesium steel gives up. Chinesium suspension parts need non Chinesium grease. Use a needle on a grease gun and flush the Ho Chi Mein grease out. This will increase time duration before failure.