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Coil pack harness gets brittle from being heat treated. Usually this occurs after some work requiring movement of the harness, (E.G. spark plug replacement etc.)
Replace the connectors first, make sure the wiring orientations are the same. There's one common B+ to all of them, make sure it's all either on top near the release clip or all on bottom, doesn't matter, as long as they are on the same orientation is what's important.
If misfire still exists after all of the other items are replaced and OCV filter cleaned, cut open the loom and inspect wiring for cracks.
How do you get the wires out of the original clip?
The ones I got off eBay already came with wires connected. I figure if I can pull the original wires out then I could save as much of the original wire as possible. Otherwise I guess I'll have to cut the wire as close to the clip as possible.
Well, there's still a clip that holds the metal leads on the clip. When removing from old ones they are likely brittle and will break anyways. Just make sure when the new one is put in the leads are clipped in place.
Well, there's still a clip that holds the metal leads on the clip. When removing from old ones they are likely brittle and will break anyways. Just make sure when the new one is put in the leads are clipped in place.
Thanks, the ones I got from eBay already have the wires connected so I would have to solder them to the wires in the harness. I'm not concerned with doing that but I am concerned that if I decided I want to go back to the original style clip that I would have to cut off the wire that was solder and it would then make the wire too short for the OEM style clips. Of coarse I could just solder some extension wire in place but then all of a sudden I have a bunch of hacked together wire and I don't want to do that.
The ones off eBay were only $10 shipped so I'm torn on ordering some of the OEM clips. Thing is there that when I look for the part number 90980-11246 listed in the first post that they come back to only to Toyota. On ToyotaPartsDeal.com it doesn't let me cross reference them to the Lexus and then when I look them up on LexusPartsNow.com it says those don't fit. The parts people there will only talk through email and not chat or phone. I'm waiting to hear back on what they say.
It will be another week or two before I can devote a majority of a day to work on them anyway so I have a little time to get everything together. Last night I came across a pretty detailed video on changing the spark plugs so I feel much better that I can get this done. Anything about actually dealing with the clips is limited though. I found a little better info on someone changing out the clips on a Mercedes which at least gave me a better idea on how the OEM style come out and go back together.
Thanks for the help and I'll be posting my results or any other questions.
I tried getting out the clip but it didn't seem to want to budge without destroying the clip.
I decided to just eat the $10 on the original ones and I decided to buy these. They have positive reviews and look to be like the OEM ones....$24 shipped. I'm still saving quite a bit of money if I can get it all fixed with these and new plugs.
I was able to work on my GS today and found a hand full of issues with the wires, plugs, and coil packs. When I drove it over to my dad's place it ran just fine again, so I know it has some kind of a connection issue where it works one minute and not the next. The place where I bought it from that had done a bunch of work on the car and must have replaced the coil pack connectors. You could tell because the connectors looked new and the electrical tape was still fresh. They had the exact same $10 pre-wired ones that I initially purchased and had spliced them into the wiring harness. However, they used a crimp and even though it looks like they did a decent job I just believe in soldering them instead of depending on a crimp to make connection. Then in the process I found where the wires for cylinder 3-4 had some exposed wire on both sides that was below where they had put the crimp. I attached a picture of what I found, where the exposed wire was, and where I cut it back to start a new connection. I used shrink wrap, then electrical tape over it all, and then I'm adding new wire loom cover. That one was the worst of the three but all of them had what was like light corrosion inside of the original wire. I had to cut back the wire and clean it with a wire brush to get it to a decent copper look before soldering it. So, this was a possible problem but ultimately I don't think that was the real issue.
I went a head and changed the spark plugs to the NGK Iridium ones I bought. The plug in bank 3 ended up snapping off the upper portion. I probably did that when I took it out but I didn't do anything out of the ordinary so I wonder if it was possibly cracked already and I just finished it off. I will say that the break looked to be fresh so who knows. Again, maybe a contributing factor but probably not the problem.
Then I think I found what is going to be the ultimate problem/fix. When I went to plug in the coil pack connector to the coil pack for cylinder 3-4 I couldn't get it to click. After fiddling with it for a bit I pulled that coil pack back out and tried to test fit the other 2 coil pack connectors I had remaining. None of them would click on. I then saw where there was broken and missing piece on for the connector of the coil pack and after comparing this coil pack to one of the other coil packs it looks as though the connector point was shorter than the other ones. We tried multiple times using the other coil pack connectors and it just wouldn't click on. You could just pull the connector right off easily. I then tested those coil pack connectors on the other coil packs and they clipped perfectly right off the bat. These coil packs are stamped with the Toyota brand so I'm assuming they are OEM and I'm not sure why they wouldn't fit but they didn't. I think this is really where the problem is going to be since the connector would never make a solid connection. I think the place I had bought it from had done a lot of part upgrades but based on the cost of coil packs my guess is that they just put it on enough to get by and out the door. I called 4 different auto parts places including a Toyota dealer. The cheapest place I found was O'Rielly with their store brand for $80 ea, then NAPA for $108 ea for Denso, another for $80 duralast, and then $160 ea at the Toyota dealer. I can see why they didn't want to spend the money to replace them. I then went back to Amazon and found a brand that I haven't heard of but had good reviews, they were $68 shipped for 3 coil packs so I decided to give those a try and keep they other ones for spares. Now I just have to wait a couple days for them to get here.
At this point I don't know if I've have or will get this all fixed but I do think I've found the problem. I'll report back once I get it all wrapped up with a little drive time.
Got the coil packs in last night and worked on the GS tonight. A few things I'll note for those going down this path, first off, I found that the cheap coil pack clips didn't snap on correctly. In other words, I thought the coil pack was the issue (which in my case I they still needed replacing) but it really turned out to be the clip. Even with the new coil pack the couple clips I was having issues with, including the one that was already solder on, still wouldn't clip on. Luckily I still had the ones I pulled off initially and I was able to find one that would clip on correctly so I had to switch it out. Out of 8 clips that I had, 3 of them would not clip on properly. So, moral to that story is to double check that the clips will clip on properly before installing.
Now, in my case there was still an issue with the original coil pack. If you look at the picture I posted you can see compared to my new ones that the portion that the wiring harness connects to is much shorter. I don't know if it came that way or I suspect that someone down the line was having a problem trying to get the clip to connect and so they decided to file down the connection part. Either way a new one was need for $68 shipped for 3 coil packs it's absolultely worth peace of mind to replace them. The ones I bought seem to be a really good and they fit perfectly. For now I would recommend them especially since all 3 were a lot less than just 1 I was trying to find locally and I received them in two days from Amazon. Obviously I won't really know how they will hold up until I can put some time and miles on them.
Since I was waiting on my coil packs to come in I bought some loom casing for $3 while I was at Wally World this weekend. I installed it on all of my coil pack wires which had zero casing left and I also removed some of the brittle casing around other parts of the loom and replaced it. The stuff was so brittle I literately crushed it with light squeezing.
Unfortunately I must have left the door slightly open or something because the battery was too dead to start the car. I put a fast charge on it and was able to test start it and it seemed to work just fine. However, since I couldn't drive both of my cars home tonight I decided to leave it on a trickle charge tonight and I'll get it and test drive it more tomorrow. I also had a check engine light on as well and it looked like it was a throttle position sensor error. I went ahead and cleared the code for now and will see if it comes back. Hopefully it only came one due to the work I was doing and it won't come back.
Sorry some of this pics are all grainy. I just got a new phone a couple weeks ago and must be doing something wrong. Some of the pictures turned out great and some not so much but it's all I have. Pictures of solder with shrink wrap, then electrical taped everything, then added the loom casing.
I was having random misfires on my 98 2GS300 and found that the coil pak connectors had disintegrated because of the heat.
I did a quick search and didn't see a DIY for the coil pack connector replacement, so I thought I would post one up on here. I am new to this forum and want to be a contributing member here. here is a picture of the part number. Attachment 434589
here is a picture of the new connector. Be sure not to push in the white portion of the connector, that is done last in the building of the connector. Attachment 434590
I got all three connectors from my local Toyota dealership for 22 bucks total for all of them. That part number 90980-11246 is a Lexus or Toyota part number.
Without further ado, off to the work.
Tools needed are:
1. Metric allen wrench set
2. 12mm deep socket
3. 3 inch extension
4. Ratchet wrench
5. Pliers, regular and needle nose
6. 14mm Combination wrench
7. #3 phillips srewdriver
1. Remove the negative terminal from the battery. (no Picture needed)
2. Remove 4 allen bolts that hold on the timing gear cover Attachment 434591
3. (optional) While the engine cover is off, you can take off this bolt and clean the OCV filter. This is not required though. The filter is behind the bolt with the arrow pointing to it. Attachment 434592
5. Loosen these 2 screws on the intake tube marked with red arrow, and remove the hoses indicated by the green arrows. Attachment 434594
6. Loosen this nut on the throttle cable, and pull the throttle cable out of the bracket. Remove the throttle cable end out of the throttle body Attachment 434595 Attachment 434596
7. Remove these 5 nuts that are indicated by the red arrows. The two on the bottom are hidden by the wiring harness in the picture, but can easily be seen. Attachment 434597
8. Remove the two bolts at the top of the throttle body. Attachment 434598
10. At this time, the throttle body can be moved. I just pulled it out far enough to where i could get to the connector.
11. This is the connector that I am replacing at this time. you can see from the picture, that all that is inside the connector is two female pins. They were able to just float around. Attachment 434600 Attachment 434601
12. I don't have any pics of this, but it is very easy. since there was nothing on the inside of my old connector, the wires just pulled right out. be sure to note which way the wires were placed in the connector, beause they will have to go back the same way. When I did my other ones, there was still some plastic still inside the connector, and all I had to do was take a small screwdriver, and break all the left over pieces out from around the pins.
13. To assemble the new connectors, push in the female pins from the back of the connector until they click into place. Be sure to put them back in the same orientation that they came out. once the pins are in the connector, push in the white piece until it clicks into place. your pins are now secure in the connector. This is what it will look like after. Attachment 434602
14. I would suggest replacing the other two while you're in the process, if one broke, the others probably aren't far behind.
15. Installation is the reverse of disassembly.
Hope this DIY may help someone down the road.
Hi i am a new member in need of help! I was doing spark plugs on my 2000 gs 300 and all 3 of my coil connectors broke. Long story short i ordered new connectors but i dont know which of the 2 wires go to to which side of connector! Car starts and stalls and continuosly blows etcs fuse help!
01-25-18, 01:04 AM
