Is this wiring dangerous?(fire hazard)
06-26-10, 02:50 PM
#16
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Whoa! I had to log in from my gf's phone to get back at you because this is bad. See that's why I wanted to know how you wired it to melt they relay like that. It is really dangerous as is right now.
The input wire should coming from a source that turns on when your key is turned to ACC. The compressor should have a power and ground wire seperate from what tells it to turn on and off. That signal would come from your pressure sensor that would be either on your tank or somewhere inline before your valves.
Please be careful and get this taken care of. Use your viair user manual if you can' get it yourself. Also ask online to your buddies who are always willing to help. Also, I am not sure a 10g wire is big enough for the amp draw of the 480's
The input wire should coming from a source that turns on when your key is turned to ACC. The compressor should have a power and ground wire seperate from what tells it to turn on and off. That signal would come from your pressure sensor that would be either on your tank or somewhere inline before your valves.
Please be careful and get this taken care of. Use your viair user manual if you can' get it yourself. Also ask online to your buddies who are always willing to help. Also, I am not sure a 10g wire is big enough for the amp draw of the 480's
where you have the wire connected to the switch, removed it, install fuse there then run a wire on the other side of the fuse to the switch and do the same on the compressor side. Quite simple. and BTW, thats no 10awg, thats 14awg wire maybe 12awg. but I still dont like your compressors hooked up that way 
(as I mentioned on facebook) and considering how much draw your compressor has, thats WAY too small of wire for that set up... mostly because the wire is so long. the longer the power wire, the less resistance. The longer the wire, the thicker it must be (not by much though of course) I personally dont like the idea of 30 amps being pulled through that long wire. Even the UAS kit comes with a 4awg distribution block for the compressor to be hooked up to.
(as I mentioned on facebook) and considering how much draw your compressor has, thats WAY too small of wire for that set up... mostly because the wire is so long. the longer the power wire, the less resistance. The longer the wire, the thicker it must be (not by much though of course) I personally dont like the idea of 30 amps being pulled through that long wire. Even the UAS kit comes with a 4awg distribution block for the compressor to be hooked up to.As has been mentioned, put the fuse before the switch. You can add a fuse in pretty easily with a looped fuse holder that is available at Radio Shack. You cut the wire, splice it in, and attach it post fuse to the switch.
As for the rating, unless you paid more than $3 for the switch, I highly doubt it is safe for running 30A through it. Those contacts are tiny, and you should absolutely ensure you are using one rated for more than the compressor(s) will draw.
I paid 3.25 for the switch.
It is rated 25a, so I wonder if that's enough
And you got this magic fuse rating from where? The draw of the compressor is the determining factor, not the size of the wire. If the compressor(s) draw 20A, that's the max his fuse should be, etc., etc. I concur with you about the voltmeter, but let's set the standard with solid electrical principles for fusing.
From battery to a distro block, then to the switch, then to a distro block. This has wire fire written all over it. Fuses before the switch, as I said. What are you distributing after the switch?
Ok, from battery to distro block> to switch> and then to compressor.
You need to replace the pressure switch. Don't rig it to run and have it splode because you were trying to cut costs/corners.
I will eventually,as soon as I find out it it can be replaced, I will have to contact easy street. I do like the way this is set up though
.. Hopefully if they do sell the pressure switch, I will run it like this to the relay. I hate that the compressor kicks in too early.
I concur.
Backward on the first part. Longer = more resistance, hence the reason for larger gauge wire to overcome the current requirements.
Good call on 30A being drawn through what appears to be 14ga wire. The pictures weren't very clear, so I was going to ask for more, but I would like confirmation on the size.
Yes, you got it right. Switch to relay's acc switch, then outputs from relay to compressor. Supply side (+12V) of relay MUST have a fuse - this is determined by the current draw from the compressor(s). If you are doing this, it changes the fuse requirement of the switch dramatically, too. It should be no more than 1A, since the relay will only need 300mA to turn on. This means your existing switch with the purdy little red dot will be fine, but only if you are using the relay as prescribed. If you are using it to turn on the compressor, follow the parts above.
Big Mack
As for the rating, unless you paid more than $3 for the switch, I highly doubt it is safe for running 30A through it. Those contacts are tiny, and you should absolutely ensure you are using one rated for more than the compressor(s) will draw.
I paid 3.25 for the switch.
It is rated 25a, so I wonder if that's enoughAnd you got this magic fuse rating from where? The draw of the compressor is the determining factor, not the size of the wire. If the compressor(s) draw 20A, that's the max his fuse should be, etc., etc. I concur with you about the voltmeter, but let's set the standard with solid electrical principles for fusing.
From battery to a distro block, then to the switch, then to a distro block. This has wire fire written all over it. Fuses before the switch, as I said. What are you distributing after the switch?Ok, from battery to distro block> to switch> and then to compressor.
You need to replace the pressure switch. Don't rig it to run and have it splode because you were trying to cut costs/corners.
I will eventually,as soon as I find out it it can be replaced, I will have to contact easy street. I do like the way this is set up though
.. Hopefully if they do sell the pressure switch, I will run it like this to the relay. I hate that the compressor kicks in too early.I concur.
Backward on the first part. Longer = more resistance, hence the reason for larger gauge wire to overcome the current requirements.
Good call on 30A being drawn through what appears to be 14ga wire. The pictures weren't very clear, so I was going to ask for more, but I would like confirmation on the size.Yes, you got it right. Switch to relay's acc switch, then outputs from relay to compressor. Supply side (+12V) of relay MUST have a fuse - this is determined by the current draw from the compressor(s). If you are doing this, it changes the fuse requirement of the switch dramatically, too. It should be no more than 1A, since the relay will only need 300mA to turn on. This means your existing switch with the purdy little red dot will be fine, but only if you are using the relay as prescribed. If you are using it to turn on the compressor, follow the parts above.
Big Mack
if not followed, the 'purdy red dot' switch will end up like the old relay 
and possibly take the carpet and whatever is around the wire running to the back with it 
06-26-10, 06:45 PM
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No, unless your distro block is a fused unit. You MUST have a fuse, mang!!
I will eventually,as soon as I find out it it can be replaced, I will have to contact easy street. I do like the way this is set up though.. Hopefully if they do sell the pressure switch, I will run it like this to the relay. I hate that the compressor kicks in too early..
By sending a mega s-ton of current through it? That relay gave it's life when the current came, and it suffered a horrific death. He's lucky it didn't burn the car down, honestly.
En, make sure you are checking every connection and being safe, mang. If the wire said 10ga on it, it's probably safe. You definitely need to figure out the current draw from the compressors, though. Do you have one or two (or more)? We need to know so we can make sure you get it right and safe.
Big Mack
Last edited by Big Mack; 06-26-10 at 06:50 PM.
06-27-10, 12:06 AM
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Updates, Envy?
Big Mack
06-27-10, 01:26 AM
#23
Envy. is the easy street management system a complete management system by them?? meaning you are running their pressure senders and what not as well?
if so doesnt the system use 1 of the 5 pressure senders as a pressure switch? If i recall i the manual said to remove the old pressure switch and use their pressure senders for the digital controller gauge.. so that means the pressure is controlled via the computer?
if so doesnt the system use 1 of the 5 pressure senders as a pressure switch? If i recall i the manual said to remove the old pressure switch and use their pressure senders for the digital controller gauge.. so that means the pressure is controlled via the computer?
06-27-10, 01:38 AM
#24
Envy. is the easy street management system a complete management system by them?? meaning you are running their pressure senders and what not as well?
if so doesnt the system use 1 of the 5 pressure senders as a pressure switch? If i recall i the manual said to remove the old pressure switch and use their pressure senders for the digital controller gauge.. so that means the pressure is controlled via the computer?
if so doesnt the system use 1 of the 5 pressure senders as a pressure switch? If i recall i the manual said to remove the old pressure switch and use their pressure senders for the digital controller gauge.. so that means the pressure is controlled via the computer?
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