Doggone O2 Sensors/Cats!!! PO 440 , 441 & 446 (might NOT be sensors)
01-15-09, 02:14 PM
#31
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Join Date: May 2008
Location: MD
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So I clean my K&N air filter, take off the neg battery cable, the ECU fuse and clean the crap out of the gas cap area. I then put in a bottle of STP Complete Fuel Cleaner and a new gas cap.
No check engine light.
I drive around and put some gas in the tank.
No check engine light.
Lets see what the Emissions guy says tomorrow
No check engine light.
I drive around and put some gas in the tank.
No check engine light.
Lets see what the Emissions guy says tomorrow
01-15-09, 07:18 PM
#32
Guest
Posts: n/a
I do have a K&N drop in. I cleaned it before doing my emissions.
12-18-09, 02:27 AM
#33
446 and 136
I had a 446 set shortly after changing the starter. I let it go for a while cause I knew it wasn't really affecting anything, however now I have to fix it to pass emissions.
Neither 440 or 441 are set, I've checked the vacuum lines and it seems like they're all sealing. I pulled the hose right after the VSV for Evap and found the vacuum to be cycling on and off rapidly. Is this normal for the car or should it stay on? I don't want to replace this part if I don't have to, can't afford too much since I'm not working right now.
I'm holding off changing the o2 sensor until the evap is fixed in case the 136 is linked with the 446. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
Neither 440 or 441 are set, I've checked the vacuum lines and it seems like they're all sealing. I pulled the hose right after the VSV for Evap and found the vacuum to be cycling on and off rapidly. Is this normal for the car or should it stay on? I don't want to replace this part if I don't have to, can't afford too much since I'm not working right now.
I'm holding off changing the o2 sensor until the evap is fixed in case the 136 is linked with the 446. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
12-25-09, 04:57 AM
#34
136 and 446 Problems solved!!!
136 was solved by changing the o2 sensor. I heated the pipe and the bung around the sensor with a torch and it came out easily after that. The penetrating oil I put on it prior to that was not enough. I used a denso universal , $38 plus shipping from amazon.com I had to crimp the wires from the original connector to the new sensor, but it was worth the time to save $100. The crimp connectors and shrink tube came with the part. The part number is denso 234-4209.
After doing a lot of research on the EVAP system I concluded that the 446 was not a vacuum hose leak. I mistakenly assumed it was a hose since the MIL came up shortly after changing the starter, just a coincidence I guess. Also, I only had a 446 being thrown and not the 440. Turns out the problem was with the VSV on the canister. The metal on this part was very badly rusted and likely corroded the inside of the part as well causing the solenoid to stick. If you have only the 446 set, it's very likely the VSV on the canister. This part is not well protected from the elements and the metal is not coated, only painted, it will easily rust after a few years.
You can actually change the solenoid without pulling the canister provided your forearms aren't too large.
Jack the car up using the driverside rear jack point and remove that wheel.
You should be able to see the canister with the VSV attached about 1/3 of the way in. See how rusted it is. There is one phillips screw that attaches it. Mine was too rusted to use a phillips and I had to use a small vice grips. Disconnect the hoses and the electrical connector. Make sure the hoses are not damaged. Check the part with battery voltage and a tube to blow into the port nearest the solenoid on the two port side. Air should move freely from that center port to one of the other ports. When the battery is connected, air should come out the other port. If it doesn't, you found your problem.
Reinstall the new part the same way you removed the old one. The screw does not come with the new VSV so if you need a new one, ask the parts dealer or visit the hardware store. I reslotted the head of the old screw and reused it.
The part is used on Camrys also, so don't let the Lexus dealer rip you off. The number is 90910-12271 for a 99 GS400.
Sorry there's no pictures to go with this but I was rushing to change the part. After getting 2 $50 tickets for expired registration, I had to get the thing to pass emissions immediately. Hope this helps those of you with the same problems. From what I've read it seems that this VSV is a pretty common part to go bad. For those of you being told the canister needs to be replaced, check this part first, especially if you only have the 446 set.
After doing a lot of research on the EVAP system I concluded that the 446 was not a vacuum hose leak. I mistakenly assumed it was a hose since the MIL came up shortly after changing the starter, just a coincidence I guess. Also, I only had a 446 being thrown and not the 440. Turns out the problem was with the VSV on the canister. The metal on this part was very badly rusted and likely corroded the inside of the part as well causing the solenoid to stick. If you have only the 446 set, it's very likely the VSV on the canister. This part is not well protected from the elements and the metal is not coated, only painted, it will easily rust after a few years.
You can actually change the solenoid without pulling the canister provided your forearms aren't too large.
Jack the car up using the driverside rear jack point and remove that wheel.
You should be able to see the canister with the VSV attached about 1/3 of the way in. See how rusted it is. There is one phillips screw that attaches it. Mine was too rusted to use a phillips and I had to use a small vice grips. Disconnect the hoses and the electrical connector. Make sure the hoses are not damaged. Check the part with battery voltage and a tube to blow into the port nearest the solenoid on the two port side. Air should move freely from that center port to one of the other ports. When the battery is connected, air should come out the other port. If it doesn't, you found your problem.
Reinstall the new part the same way you removed the old one. The screw does not come with the new VSV so if you need a new one, ask the parts dealer or visit the hardware store. I reslotted the head of the old screw and reused it.
The part is used on Camrys also, so don't let the Lexus dealer rip you off. The number is 90910-12271 for a 99 GS400.
Sorry there's no pictures to go with this but I was rushing to change the part. After getting 2 $50 tickets for expired registration, I had to get the thing to pass emissions immediately. Hope this helps those of you with the same problems. From what I've read it seems that this VSV is a pretty common part to go bad. For those of you being told the canister needs to be replaced, check this part first, especially if you only have the 446 set.
12-25-09, 12:05 PM
#35
Still have the po440 code
Hello,
I still haven't changed the charcoal canister (I have been away a lot this year on business trips, and the car has been sitting).
Anyway, now I get a strong gas smell when the tank is less than 1/2 tank of fuel. It is getting bad now, so I have to fix it.
Does ANYONE have a DIY of replacing this canister? I have to do it soon and I may take pictures and post them. I replaced the VSV valve under the hood a year ago, and that got rid of the PO446. Now all I get is the PO440 about once a week. I am sure there is another VSV near the charcoal canister, but haven't checked it yet. I suspect a crack in the canister itself, and I need to fix it before emission time in 2010.
It will be really tight getting into the area around the canister above the differential. I am told it is best to remove it on the passenger side for some reason. I am not sure if dropping the differential straight down and supporting it will help with the installation. Any comments would be warmly received.
I still haven't changed the charcoal canister (I have been away a lot this year on business trips, and the car has been sitting).
Anyway, now I get a strong gas smell when the tank is less than 1/2 tank of fuel. It is getting bad now, so I have to fix it.
Does ANYONE have a DIY of replacing this canister? I have to do it soon and I may take pictures and post them. I replaced the VSV valve under the hood a year ago, and that got rid of the PO446. Now all I get is the PO440 about once a week. I am sure there is another VSV near the charcoal canister, but haven't checked it yet. I suspect a crack in the canister itself, and I need to fix it before emission time in 2010.
It will be really tight getting into the area around the canister above the differential. I am told it is best to remove it on the passenger side for some reason. I am not sure if dropping the differential straight down and supporting it will help with the installation. Any comments would be warmly received.
04-29-10, 02:11 PM
#36
I finally got my charcoal canister
Well,
Carson Toyota finally brought my charcoal canister in for me to pick up. I will do the job next week. I was tempted to have the dealership do it, but they wanted $500.00 to install. That is enough for me to attempt the installation myself.
Carson gave me the best price! $520.00 vice $627.00. By the way, the Charcoal canister has a new part number, 77740-30311. This is the newest part number showing the latest revision. It comes complete with the VSV. This should fix the problem as long as the hoses are good.
I will keep everyone posted! Wish me luck!
Carson Toyota finally brought my charcoal canister in for me to pick up. I will do the job next week. I was tempted to have the dealership do it, but they wanted $500.00 to install. That is enough for me to attempt the installation myself.
Carson gave me the best price! $520.00 vice $627.00. By the way, the Charcoal canister has a new part number, 77740-30311. This is the newest part number showing the latest revision. It comes complete with the VSV. This should fix the problem as long as the hoses are good.
I will keep everyone posted! Wish me luck!
06-09-10, 01:51 PM
#37
Tried to install the canister
Well,
I had themost frustrating day of my life yesterday. I tried to change the canister, and I had EVERY other hose off except one large vent hose. This hose was the MOST FRUSTRATING thing I've had in all my years of car maintenance. I spent 3 of the 4 hours trying to get that one hose off. I pushed, pulled, cussed, and got nothing done. I wound up re-installing the old canister and changing the large rubber vent hose that was cracked on both ends. This preformed hose was included in the new canister.
I had 2 codes before the maintenance, which were PO440 and PO446. After changing the hose, the PO440 went away and only PO446 remains. I also get the fuel smell after shutdown. That takes about 2 minutes and the fumes begin.
I am going to attempt to change the canister again since I paid all this money for it.
1. I wonder if the fuel smell could be caused by the VSV? I will change out the VSV and see if the code and the smell goes away. If not, I'll have to change the entire canister even if I have to pay for it.
This is really frustrating. I don't know what I missed in trying to get that hose out. I had the right rear differential shaft out and everything. I was so close, but yet so far.
One good thing though...The light stayed out long enough to get the car smogged today in California. It passed because the numbers were so good, and the code had not come back yet.
So now I have some breathing time to get this canister changed. I want to get that hose off and do this thing right.
WHAT AN EXPERIENCE!
I'll keep everyone posted
I had themost frustrating day of my life yesterday. I tried to change the canister, and I had EVERY other hose off except one large vent hose. This hose was the MOST FRUSTRATING thing I've had in all my years of car maintenance. I spent 3 of the 4 hours trying to get that one hose off. I pushed, pulled, cussed, and got nothing done. I wound up re-installing the old canister and changing the large rubber vent hose that was cracked on both ends. This preformed hose was included in the new canister.
I had 2 codes before the maintenance, which were PO440 and PO446. After changing the hose, the PO440 went away and only PO446 remains. I also get the fuel smell after shutdown. That takes about 2 minutes and the fumes begin.
I am going to attempt to change the canister again since I paid all this money for it.
1. I wonder if the fuel smell could be caused by the VSV? I will change out the VSV and see if the code and the smell goes away. If not, I'll have to change the entire canister even if I have to pay for it.
This is really frustrating. I don't know what I missed in trying to get that hose out. I had the right rear differential shaft out and everything. I was so close, but yet so far.
One good thing though...The light stayed out long enough to get the car smogged today in California. It passed because the numbers were so good, and the code had not come back yet.
So now I have some breathing time to get this canister changed. I want to get that hose off and do this thing right.
WHAT AN EXPERIENCE!
I'll keep everyone posted
09-28-10, 07:44 AM
#38
Sorry to bring this back up from the dead.
GSEREP1 did you get this fixed. I just started to see these codes as well. I reset it once, and it came back after about 200 miles.
Does anyone have the part numbers for all the components of this code. I figure I will buy the purge valve, 02 sensors, and new gas cap for starters. My car has 130k on it, so I figure its time to maintain a little.
GSEREP1 did you get this fixed. I just started to see these codes as well. I reset it once, and it came back after about 200 miles.
Does anyone have the part numbers for all the components of this code. I figure I will buy the purge valve, 02 sensors, and new gas cap for starters. My car has 130k on it, so I figure its time to maintain a little.
02-18-12, 05:29 PM
#39
is there a picture of the vsv? im having trouble finding it. i know this thread is old. but my gs400 is shutting off after i put in gas and i fill it to the rim.
or maybe a diagram of the hoses? i havent had a canister in my other cars for a long time. anyone just cap the line off without throwing codes?
or maybe a diagram of the hoses? i havent had a canister in my other cars for a long time. anyone just cap the line off without throwing codes?
