Door Lock Acutuators DIY ???
#1111
so i figured out what was wrong with my RR door lock actuator, i guess i was too aggressive with removing the seal on the actuator so when i put it back together near the top by the gear it was bent where it had maybe a 1mm gap at best. i guess this was enough for the gear to torque off the spring and cause it to jam and not slide any more.
anyways found a super cheap actuator on good ole Ebay ( THAT ACTUALLY WORKS ) and its worked for a bout a week consistently now, which is the longest my door has worked in forever, I'll post up if it doesn't last long
69130 30110 New Power Door Lock Actuators Rear Right RR 69130 30110 4 Pins | eBay
anyways found a super cheap actuator on good ole Ebay ( THAT ACTUALLY WORKS ) and its worked for a bout a week consistently now, which is the longest my door has worked in forever, I'll post up if it doesn't last long
69130 30110 New Power Door Lock Actuators Rear Right RR 69130 30110 4 Pins | eBay
Im glad you found the right one with the 4 pins. They must of just started making the 4 pin ones for the passenger rear because I could not find this for a good price anywhere about 1 month ago. Only the 2 and 6 pin ones were available on ebaymotors. I bought the small motors for the DIY but the motors were reversed polarity and were no good as the door would lock when you unlock it and unlock when you lock it so i got a new OEM actuator but great information.
#1112
Instructor
iTrader: (8)
I just did my rear locks, and didn't know that there was a spring on the gear. and unwound it. If you look at the bottom part of the case, there should be a plastic tab, each end of the spring goes on the opposite direction of the tab. I know that its hard to understand but if you can provide a pic of the case I can show you how. My case is already glued back on.
#1113
Pole Position
iTrader: (2)
I just did a couple more actuators yesterday. Just like stated before on the rears no need to remove windows or door handles. I had them out in 5-10 minutes each. We did only 1 front door, the passenger front and did not remove the window or door handle. For a first timer the door handle probably needs to come out, but after doing a few I didn't need to.
#1115
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Ca
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Door locks
Just a ques for lexo98.... If you don't mind where approximately in ca. are you located. I'm in central ca. And am looking to see if someone near by could do these locks for me.... Of course I know there will be a cost.... Thanks
#1116
Lexus Champion
You've got a short in the the door unlock detection switch that tells the computer the key is holding in the unlock position. Holding the key normally in the unlock position is a feature that allows you to roll down the windows and sunroof to air out the car on a hot day before entering.
#1117
Lexus Test Driver
iTrader: (4)
You've got a short in the the door unlock detection switch that tells the computer the key is holding in the unlock position. Holding the key normally in the unlock position is a feature that allows you to roll down the windows and sunroof to air out the car on a hot day before entering.
#1118
Lexus Champion
#1119
I'm confused on the motor shaft for my 2001 GS430 (rear pass side)
I see different shaft lengths, different shaft shape, yet the part number is all the same??
Can someone steer me in the right direction and point me to the right motor with the right shaft length/shape
Thanks
I see different shaft lengths, different shaft shape, yet the part number is all the same??
Can someone steer me in the right direction and point me to the right motor with the right shaft length/shape
Thanks
#1120
Pole Position
iTrader: (2)
[QUOTE=BayAreaLex;9189253]I'm confused on the motor shaft for my 2001 GS430 (rear pass side)
I see different shaft lengths, different shaft shape, yet the part number is all the same??
Can someone steer me in the right direction and point me to the right motor with the right shaft length/shape
Thanks[/QUOTE
10mm round shaft.
I see different shaft lengths, different shaft shape, yet the part number is all the same??
Can someone steer me in the right direction and point me to the right motor with the right shaft length/shape
Thanks[/QUOTE
10mm round shaft.
#1121
[QUOTE=lexo98;9189637]
Excellent, thank you sir!
I'm confused on the motor shaft for my 2001 GS430 (rear pass side)
I see different shaft lengths, different shaft shape, yet the part number is all the same??
Can someone steer me in the right direction and point me to the right motor with the right shaft length/shape
Thanks[/QUOTE
10mm round shaft.
I see different shaft lengths, different shaft shape, yet the part number is all the same??
Can someone steer me in the right direction and point me to the right motor with the right shaft length/shape
Thanks[/QUOTE
10mm round shaft.
#1122
Racer
iTrader: (14)
Have 2 motors just sitting in my car waiting to be replaced but been too lazy to do it. Will probably tackle it soon. Does anyone know if having a Viper alarm will cause any kind of trouble during the reassembly portion of the DIY?
Also, what is the most current/quickest method of removing the front and rears? Way too many pages to sift through. If anything I'll just follow the youtube vids. Thanks in advance!
Also, what is the most current/quickest method of removing the front and rears? Way too many pages to sift through. If anything I'll just follow the youtube vids. Thanks in advance!
#1123
Pole Position
iTrader: (2)
Have 2 motors just sitting in my car waiting to be replaced but been too lazy to do it. Will probably tackle it soon. Does anyone know if having a Viper alarm will cause any kind of trouble during the reassembly portion of the DIY?
Also, what is the most current/quickest method of removing the front and rears? Way too many pages to sift through. If anything I'll just follow the youtube vids. Thanks in advance!
Also, what is the most current/quickest method of removing the front and rears? Way too many pages to sift through. If anything I'll just follow the youtube vids. Thanks in advance!
#1124
Wanted to offer an important tip to save others the numerous hours I spent trying to figure out the problem I had after replacing my actuator motor.
If you cannot manually unlock the door after the motor replacement then read on...
I had previously replaced three motors with no problems, so this was the last one (passenger front). The actuator seemed to work fine after the repair, but I eventually noticed that it was difficult to unlock the passenger door using the manual door lock lever. It unlocked just fine electrically, and if it was locked manually I could unlock it manually - but if it was locked electrically, I could not unlock it manually.
I read this entire thread again (all 1000+ posts), and found close to half dozen folks having the same issue, but not one had a solution posted.
So I contacted a great guy on ebay (Lenny), store named actuatorsplus, who sells rebuilt actuator assemblies. I figured he must know how these things work. He explained to me some of the subtleties of these actuators, including how the big white gear is supposed to move and what it does. As others have said, the white gear is bidirectional, it rotates CW or CCW when the motor commands it to, but then needs to rotate back to the neutral position with the help of the spring under the white gear. I noticed that my white gear rotated back after CCW motor rotation, but not after CW. Because of that, it was nearly impossible to manually move the unlock lever.
After scratching my head for an hour trying to figure out why the gear did not want to rotate backwards, I reread Lenny's email to me - he said that most of the issues he sees are due to the collar being pressed too far or not enough on the motor shaft.
So I looked at my assembly more closely, and found the problem. When the big gear tries to unload with the help of the spring, it needs to backdrive the worm gear and the motor. What I saw in my assembly was that when the gear tried to rotate CCW, the worm gear moved towards the motor (like it was supposed to), but the motion was excessive and allowed the worm gear to contact the portion of the housing that separates the worm gear from the motor. I circled the region in red below, with a screwdriver pressing on the worm gear to mimic the white gear unloading CCW (this is AFTER I fixed the problem - before, the worm gear actually rubbed on the housing, causing the stall):
[
I looked at the motor assembly, and indeed the collar was pushed too far onto the shaft, as shown below:
While the motor shaft was able to rotate just fine, when this assembly was installed in the actuator, the worm gear bottomed out on the housing, as shown above. So I moved the collar up the shaft a bit, till it looked like this:
With this change, when the white gear tried to unload, the worm gear did not contact the housing (as shown in the first photo) and it was free to rotate smoothly.
So, the bottom line:
When installing the collar on the new shaft, be sure to not push it on too far. Take measurements on the original assembly, and put the collar in same spot on the new shaft.
This tip does show up in one of the posts, but without the explanation of what happens if you don't. Now I (and you) know .
If you cannot manually unlock the door after the motor replacement then read on...
I had previously replaced three motors with no problems, so this was the last one (passenger front). The actuator seemed to work fine after the repair, but I eventually noticed that it was difficult to unlock the passenger door using the manual door lock lever. It unlocked just fine electrically, and if it was locked manually I could unlock it manually - but if it was locked electrically, I could not unlock it manually.
I read this entire thread again (all 1000+ posts), and found close to half dozen folks having the same issue, but not one had a solution posted.
So I contacted a great guy on ebay (Lenny), store named actuatorsplus, who sells rebuilt actuator assemblies. I figured he must know how these things work. He explained to me some of the subtleties of these actuators, including how the big white gear is supposed to move and what it does. As others have said, the white gear is bidirectional, it rotates CW or CCW when the motor commands it to, but then needs to rotate back to the neutral position with the help of the spring under the white gear. I noticed that my white gear rotated back after CCW motor rotation, but not after CW. Because of that, it was nearly impossible to manually move the unlock lever.
After scratching my head for an hour trying to figure out why the gear did not want to rotate backwards, I reread Lenny's email to me - he said that most of the issues he sees are due to the collar being pressed too far or not enough on the motor shaft.
So I looked at my assembly more closely, and found the problem. When the big gear tries to unload with the help of the spring, it needs to backdrive the worm gear and the motor. What I saw in my assembly was that when the gear tried to rotate CCW, the worm gear moved towards the motor (like it was supposed to), but the motion was excessive and allowed the worm gear to contact the portion of the housing that separates the worm gear from the motor. I circled the region in red below, with a screwdriver pressing on the worm gear to mimic the white gear unloading CCW (this is AFTER I fixed the problem - before, the worm gear actually rubbed on the housing, causing the stall):
[
I looked at the motor assembly, and indeed the collar was pushed too far onto the shaft, as shown below:
While the motor shaft was able to rotate just fine, when this assembly was installed in the actuator, the worm gear bottomed out on the housing, as shown above. So I moved the collar up the shaft a bit, till it looked like this:
With this change, when the white gear tried to unload, the worm gear did not contact the housing (as shown in the first photo) and it was free to rotate smoothly.
So, the bottom line:
When installing the collar on the new shaft, be sure to not push it on too far. Take measurements on the original assembly, and put the collar in same spot on the new shaft.
This tip does show up in one of the posts, but without the explanation of what happens if you don't. Now I (and you) know .
Last edited by lyonkster; 11-28-15 at 02:53 PM.
The following users liked this post:
paulr1 (09-16-19)