I admire that you can do all this.. I'm jealous..

 

very nice! thanks for posting pics, looks great

i've swapped my head on my old supra as well myself. never done it before and it was definitely time consuming but more so not because it was hard to do but i wanted to make sure i installed everything back correctly. lol

as far as the oil return line for your turbo set up, are you just welding a flange into the oil pan? i know the GE's dont' have a return line/flange on the block like the GTE's do.

i'm going to be putting a GTE head on my GE block pretty soon. i was thinking about taking the entire bottom end out with the head together and bolting everything up OUT of the car!
i've got a th400 tranny i have to install in there as well... might be easier to do it all outside of the car and slide that sucker all in at once! good luck and keep posting pictures!

 

can anyone message me all the torque specs

 

Torque specs of the ARP studs? It should be in the box when you buy them. The standard ARP head bolts are torqued to 80ft/lb in 3 passes. So first pass do all of them in factory order up to like 30ft/lb. Then do the second pass at like 60ft/lb. Then final of 80ft/lb. The studs I use now are the ARP Custom Age 625+(they are stronger than L19, but also cost 3-4x more than the standard ARP) and they need 105ft/lb final torque spec I believe.

 

wow looks fun!
is it gonna give you any gains?

 

wow, i commend your skill set. looks like an episode of HorsepowerTV

 

Not sure the mileage on your motor, but if others tackle this, I'd recommend replacing the valve stem seals while you have the head off. Easy to do then and common part to wear.

I've heard hit and miss on head gaskets that thick; I prefer to pull pistons, hone, and drop in lower compression slugs at that point.

Good call on the arps. They're really not that expensive, make everything nice and easy to line up. Though torque to yield is accurate in its on right.